T5HO/LED hybrid

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Hi Evil,

I'm looking for your expert advice. I currently have a 50 breeder (36x18x18 inch) mixed reef running 3 39watt T5HO bulbs (all ATI; 2 blue plus and 1 special) and would like to convert to LED lighting. I would also like to be able to take this array, replicate it and use the two to light a 90 gallon (48x18x24 inch) in the future.

I'm thinking 4 rows with 12 Cree LEDs each will work on the 50. But am not sure if I can get a happy-medium with heatsink size and LED spacing. Then throw in the confounding factor of optics and I'm really stuck. I want to be sure that I'll end up with an array that has good coverage and PAR on a heatsink that is not too small for the 36" 50 gallon and not too big to put two of them on a 48" 90 gallon. Please help me plan this out so I can start saving $ and get off the T5HO bulb replacement train.

If it helps I plan to get barebones kits from nanotuners.com with ELN60-48D driver substitutions (though these drivers don't appear to be on nanotuners at the moment...?). I'll probably go with a heatsinkusa heat sink (but am intrigued by the use of Aluminum C-channel that I'm seeing on other forums and would appreciate your opinion on this option).

I'm also thinking about adding LED rows slowly as I remove T5HO bulbs... what are your thoughts on this?

I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions as I plan and construct this.

Thanks,
Tom

[XSiVE]

just a comment; 48 LEDs over your 50g is going to be pretty high intensity especially if you're considering optics.

i have 72 over my 120 and have 250par in many spots on the sandbed... you dont need to worry too much about par ;)

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Good to know! I was thinking that optics might be optional when run on the 50 but useful for use on the 90... but I really am not sure about that.

I should also note that I plan to have these dimmable so they don't need to run at 100% while on the 50 gallon.

Tom

[evilc66]

just a comment; 48 LEDs over your 50g is going to be pretty high intensity especially if you're considering optics.

i have 72 over my 120 and have 250par in many spots on the sandbed... you dont need to worry too much about par ;)

It's not really that excessive, XSiVE ;) It's all down to the current that the LEDs are driven to. Is 48 LEDs necessary? No.

Tom, I think what may be best for what you are planning is to make the system modular. If you set it up so that each module effectively covers 1ft of tank length (don't worry about width, that will be dealt with in each module), all you need to do is add one more module once you move to the 90g. I think a 4x4 array (2" on center between LEDs per row, and 3" on center between rows) on a 10"x8" heatsink should do the trick. Build one and see what you think of it, then build the remaining units for the tank. The width of the two tanks are the same, so you shouldn't need to modify the modules once you change tanks. You may need to add optics once you move to the 90g to keep PAR levels up. 60 degrees should be fine there. No need for optics on the 50g. If you use XR-E LEDs, then adding/removing optics is a snap.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

I was already thinking modular but switching to linear foot is brilliant!

Next question:

Can the MW LPC drivers be dimmed using the ALC module on a Reefkeeper?

Thanks,
Tom

[XSiVE]

Next question:

Can the MW LPC drivers be dimmed using the ALC module on a Reefkeeper?

Thanks,
Tom


in a word: no.

edit: if you want a dimmable driver and want to stick with easy AC input you're going to have to go to something in the ELN series, if you dont mind another step in construction you can do a power supply plus dimmable buckpuck configuration.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

in a word: no.

edit: if you want a dimmable driver and want to stick with easy AC input you're going to have to go to something in the ELN series, if you dont mind another step in construction you can do a power supply plus dimmable buckpuck configuration.

Thanks XSiVE, I was thinking that was the case. I was planning to use ELN60-48D drivers all along.

So, evil next question... Are ELN60-48D drivers available from nanotuners?

Thanks,
Tom

[evilc66]

Yes! We should have lots of stock on those.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Yes! We should have lots of stock on those.

Why can't I find them? All I see is the LPC drivers...

[evilc66]

Interesting. They were there not two days ago. Call the store tomorrow, and they should be able to sort you out.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

I certainly will. The build is still a ways out, but I'll be sure to call when I am ready (if they haven't reappeared by then).

I appreciate your help and guidance.

Tom

[Tom@HaslettMI]

OK Evil... Nanotuners up and stopped selling the CREE LEDs and dimmable Meanwell drivers :tear:... So I've been looking around and am wondering if the above recommended modular design should change if I used XPE and XPG emitters and Thomas Research drivers rather than XRE and meanwells.

Thanks,
Tom

[evilc66]

Yeah, we have decided to take a different direction. We just can't compete right now with some of the sites that are offering crazy low prices on LEDs. As a result, we are just sticking to stuff that we have control of, like our own fixtures and products, and items that we control the distribution of like our TRP drivers. I know a lot of people like going to us for a one stop shop, but LEDs aren't making us any money. No money, no cool products. Hope you guys understand.

XP-E and XR-Es are interchangeable. XP-G's are nice, and they work well. Do you have to use them? No. I personally think XR-Es are still plenty. XP-Gs do offer a slight efficiency increase though.

Personally, I'm never going to touch another Meanwell driver after using TRP drivers for the last 6 months, and is the primary reason we are carrying them. These drivers are far and away better in almost every respect, other than price. They are more efficient, run cooler, easier to use (no internal adjustments needed), and don't need an external voltage source to dim them. ****, you don't even need to connect a pot to make them work. The Meanwells needed a voltage to the input wires to even make it turn on. The extra cost for greater ease of use, and overall better performance and life make these worth the extra cost. You guys know me. I'm not going to sell a product that I'm not going to use personally, and run it through the wringer to make sure it lives up to my expectations. If all I was looking for was cheap, I'd be importing cheap Chinese fixtures like everyone else ;)

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Thanks for the reply. I understand the changes and am glad the company is being nimble and making the hard decisions. If nanocustoms/tuners wasn't here who would bring us non-LED savvy folks the goods!

Tom