Lighting Skills?

[MizTanks]

Who here would be able to teach this newb some lighting skills and what part they actually play in keeping a happy healthy reef?

I see a lot of talk about *blues* but aside from making corals *pop* what other advantages do they have?

What about *par*? What is meant when talking about 420/460nm?

Last but not least, how in the he** do you read the chart found on the back of the box of a new bulb?

I think that's about it for now. At least until answers start coming in and the confusion starts all over :) :)


There is nothing like being a REEFER!

[steve&mari]

From what I understand the 460 nm n such gives the spectrum of light n the blue spectrum is needed for the photosynthesis process to happen properly for the zooxanthellae in them. As you said it also shows the color pop. The purple plus is redder spectrum that helps show reds n purples ect. the whiter bulbs give lil more par n between the diffrent bulbs ya get you dawn to full daylight to dusk for the simulation of it anyways lol. We have our lights on crazy program. Run the 4 leds in fixture all nite but stunners start for a 90 min before the attincs start then 90 min later rest come on. That time stunners go off n on hr at a time to kinda simulate cloud movement. N reverse at dusk. Everyone seems happy n like it. Big thing is par for what your keeping. I'm no pro jus read a lot n tryin to learn aswell.
Steve

Also fyi we run 4 blue plus 1 purple plus 1 aquablue spec. Timer turns 2 blue plus on 1st then other 4 lil later for full daylight. Rest is above as for timers lol.
Sent from my SPH-M900 using Tapatalk

[steve&mari]

Par is photosynthetically active radiation it the useful measure of the quality of light for photosynthetic organisms. Or its how much light that's useful from the bulbs. Just cause you see light don't mean its got proper color spectum for the process to happen. That's why we change bulbs before they are out. Every moment its on its getting weaker par wise. We don't see it but its how it works. Better bulbs give better par n last longer. There's about par alil aswell. If I am wrong someone feel free to correct me its how I'm understanding it. I'm a hippy tattooed biker that's been wrong a time or two lol. But I don't think I'm to far off lol. Hope I'm helpin you Miz its lil overwhelming at times lol. Have a great day.
Steve


Sent from my SPH-M900 using Tapatalk

[XSiVE]

The nm (nanometers) you will find on something is the wavelength of light emitted.

Blue light is highly valued in corals, it is the most abundant at the majority of depths and their zooanthelle use it to photosynthesize very efficiently.

PAR and nm are somewhat related but not in any direct manner. PAR is a measurement of the intensity of specific wavelengths (nm) a given light source can produce, based on what we know chlorophyll can absorb. Check this image for whats widely accepted: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Par_action_spectrum.gif What you see there is that chlorophyll can absorb blueish and reddish light extremely well.. PAR is simply a measurement of how much light is produced in those usable spectrums.

A graph on the back of one of your new bulbs will show somewhere between 420nm and 700nm, where 420 is royal blue / violet, and 700 is deep red.. the color spikes on the graph show the relative intensity of the light they are selling you at specific wavelengths.

Hope this helps.

[MizTanks]

So basically what I'm understanding is that whites are not really needed as much as the blues, right? Blues being better for corals health and growth, right?


There is nothing like being a REEFER!

[XSiVE]

So basically what I'm understanding is that whites are not really needed as much as the blues, right? Blues being better for corals health and growth, right?


There is nothing like being a REEFER!

yes and no...

White is simply a combination of a bunch of spectrums, typical white bulbs have a large spike in the blue range, then smaller spikes in the green, yellow, orange, and red's.

If you look at coral growth trends, typically you get better growth with more "white"(larger spikes in the yellow, orange, red, but still a lot of blue) 6500K to 10,000K spectrums, but better coloration with less growth when you go to a color temperature like a 20,000K..

[MizTanks]

Ok I think I'm catching on *a little* :)
so for growth and color in a 4 bulb unite what would be suggested? This question will give me a hands on experience, a learning tool so to speak. When I shop online or at the lfs I want to be able to pick out the bulbs that best serves the tank as a whole and my eyes ;)



There is nothing like being a REEFER!

[schminksbro]

If your talking T5 I think the consensus is that ATI blu + bulbs have the best par (daylights). Assuming your in the correct spectral range actinic is personal preference. I run halide for my daylights and T5s for my actinics. Currently I am running UVL 454 bulbs for actinic and I like them ok. Previously I was running Geismann actinic + and Pure actinic and that combo seemed closer to the classic VHO color that makes your corals pop. Reflectors are a big factor in lighting. When purchasing a T5 fixture individual reflectors for each bulb is better that a single reflector with ridges for each bulb.

Ok I think I'm catching on *a little* :)
so for growth and color in a 4 bulb unite what would be suggested? This question will give me a hands on experience, a learning tool so to speak. When I shop online or at the lfs I want to be able to pick out the bulbs that best serves the tank as a whole and my eyes ;)



There is nothing like being a REEFER!

[MizTanks]

If your talking T5 I think the consensus is that ATI blu + bulbs have the best par (daylights). Assuming your in the correct spectral range actinic is personal preference. I run halide for my daylights and T5s for my actinics. Currently I am running UVL 454 bulbs for actinic and I like them ok. Previously I was running Geismann actinic + and Pure actinic and that combo seemed closer to the classic VHO color that makes your corals pop. Reflectors are a big factor in lighting. When purchasing a T5 fixture individual reflectors for each bulb is better that a single reflector with ridges for each bulb.

The AquaticLife that I'm looking at has only 1 German specially made reflector. I really like the one cord 3 way digital timer and the no fan for quieter running.
I was also looking at this one. http://www.saltysupply.com/product-p/cu01120.htm


There is nothing like being a REEFER!

[schminksbro]

Unfortunately I am more of a halide guy. I am sure there are others here that know T5 fixtures better than I.

The AquaticLife that I'm looking at has only 1 German specially made reflector. I really like the one cord 3 way digital timer and the no fan for quieter running. Is there anywhere else I can get all this and the 4 individual reflectors? If so please point me in the right direction :)


There is nothing like being a REEFER!

[steve&mari]

My son does 3 blue plus n 1 purple plus looks real nice and the aquaticlife we run has 4 blue plus 1 purple plus 1 aquablue spec. You'd be suprised how bright is. But you'll find the look you like.
Steve


Sent from my SPH-M900 using Tapatalk

[RedfordReefer]

I am one who cannot stand the smurf urine look. I have a 6 bulb T5HO (Current Nova Extreme pro 20") over my 29g Biocube and I run 4 10,000 Kelvin "Daylight" bulbs, and two 460 (I believe, might be 450) Nanometer "Blue" bulbs. I can actually see everything in my reef, not just the phosphorescent stuff.

[MizTanks]

Yup I like to see my tank bright and shiny also. I also love the more blue in the early a.m and late p.m. How bout 2x 10,000 k's 1 atenic and 1 blue of some sort that gives the corals some pop to their step :)


There is nothing like being a REEFER!

[MizTanks]

Is it the ballast that controls the amount of watts that can go into a fixture? Can a 10k lamp be replaced with a 12-14k lamp of the same watts?

[whitetiger61]

yes as long as the wattage of the bulb is the same..10k or 14 k is the temp of the bulb..the higher the k the bluer the bulb

Rick

[bigbill]

I am one who cannot stand the smurf urine look. I have a 6 bulb T5HO (Current Nova Extreme pro 20") over my 29g Biocube and I run 4 10,000 Kelvin "Daylight" bulbs, and two 460 (I believe, might be 450) Nanometer "Blue" bulbs. I can actually see everything in my reef, not just the phosphorescent stuff.

+ one on this i cant stand fake color in corals. but i run 2 10k & 2 blues but will be soon siwtching one of the 10ks to a 6500 as it is too blur for my likeings now

[MizTanks]

yes as long as the wattage of the bulb is the same..10k or 14 k is the temp of the bulb..the higher the k the bluer the bulb

Rick

Ya know, I think I'm beginning to understand this lighting stuffness! Lol thanks again Rick :)
I def don't want no smurf pee lookin tank-lol