Tips You Might Not Read in a Book...

[CalmSeasQuest]

They say experience is the best teacher. I'm sure everyone has come across or developed ways to make a maintenance process easier, faster - or just less of a hassle. Or a simply DIY solution to problems that can plague most any Marine Aquarist (I have a distaste for being referred to as a "reefer".)

I thought it might be of value to create a place where we can collect all those "pearls of wisdom" so that others might benefit. I'll start off with a couple to get the ball rolling...

Heat Can Be Your Friend
When cleaning pumps, probes or virtually anything covered in calcium or mineral deposits - You can dramatically decrease the time it takes for vinegar to dissolve the calcium deposits by warming it (I simply stick it in the microwave.) The same holds true when mixing 2-parts solutions. While Calcium (Calcium Chloride) dissolves readily, Alk (Sodium Carbonate or Soda Ash) and Magnesium (Magnesium Chloride and Magnesium Sulfate) can be tougher to mix and prone to clumping. Once again, simply warm the water and the material will dissolve mush faster.

Ziploc Silence Method
I developed an easy method to quiet a noisy overflow. Simply "drape" an appropriate size Ziploc bag immediately behind it. (usually secured with a couple zip ties.) The causes the water to run between the overflow and and the Ziploc bag in total silence... It also is self adjusting and requires little if any maintenance.

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy141/tconwell/DSC_0724.jpg

That photo was taken 1/2010 and it's been running perfectly since. It doesn't have to be a Ziploc bag, it's just what I had handy. You could use any type of inert, thin plastic sheet. There's no risk of overflow as the plastic is placed inside the overflow and only affixed at the top. It moves in response to changes in water flow. At all flow rates, my overflow is now completely silent. There is no sound of moving water whatsoever

OK - You get the idea. Lets see your solutions to everyday challenges :)

[Wy Renegade]

wonderful thread idea. I'll work on a couple things to add a bit later.

[schminksbro]

A turkey baster is a "Marine Aquarist's" best friend. You can simulate storms with brisk dusting of your reef. It is amazing how much detritus settles in the nooks and crannys no matter how much flow you have. Using the turkey baster allows you to kick that stuff up so that it can get filtered out.

[brandeewyne]

A turkey baster is a "Marine Aquarist's" best friend.

-two thumbs up- .. i couldn't agree more!

i'll have to take some time to think on this one. for some reason those time/money saving habits we all develop along the way quickly become habit more than something we have to think about. as i'm going through my regular routines i'll have to consciously take mental note of which tricks i regularly use.

one tip i can think of off the top of my head: keep a length of fishing line and a needle handy. it makes fragging a breeze for some of those softies that don't get along so well with adhesives.

[CalmSeasQuest]

The life of your DI resin depends on the quality of the water it's being fed. One challenge is TDS Creep. RO Membranes produce the lowest TDS water at higher pressures. When an RO is turned off, the pressure around the membrane drops and it allows much lower quality water to pass through and on to your DI resin. There are a couple of easy solutions to this problem that can eliminate or reduce the negative impact on your DI resin...


Longer Run Times
It's better to make as much water as possible in one session, rather than frequent, smaller volume sessions. This will lessen the amount of TDS creep, extend the life of your RO membrane and that of your DI resin. If you're using a shutoff float - change your floats to support a "latching" arrangement (http://autotopoff.com/custom/) allowing for longer runs.


Bypass your DI for a few minutes when you first start up your RO
Split the line between your RO and DI and install a valve. Run the bypass line (the one with the valve) down the drain. When you first start your RO, open the DI bypass valve and allow the high TDS water to go down the drain (or use it for anything other than your reef - even as drinking water as it's far better than whats comes out of your tap.) This enables you to run your RO for a few minutes, eliminating high-TDS water and extending the life of your DI Resin.

If you have a TDS meter between your RO and DI, you can monitor how quickly the TDS drops and know when to close the valve and allow water to flow to your DI resin. My RO/DI goes from an initial reading of ~90TDS, down to about 2TDS over the course of 5 minutes.

[igot2gats]

How about using one of those "boxes" with holes in it for your new fish, once you've acclimated it & QT'd it?

This way it allows other inhabitants to get used to the new neighbor in the tank w/o harrassing it / chasing it around...thus stressing it out even more.

Also, randomly checking the temp of your water with a different thermometer, so that you can compare readings / check to see if your thermometer that you use all the time is correct.

And one last thing - watch your tankmates when you feed. See who is shy & who is not....so the next time you feed, you know who to look out for, who needs special attention, etc.

[CalmSeasQuest]

A few more...


Costco sells inexpensive, 5 liter jugs of vinegar :)

Walmart is the cheapest source for nitrile gloves I've found thus far.

Bamboo skewers (like those used for shish-kabob) are very handy for cleaning pumps, skimmers, filters... They allow you to reach and scrape hard to get at places but are soft enough not to scratch or scar.

When working with epoxy to affix rocks or frags, it helps to press the item into the epoxy to make an "impression", then use cyanoacrylate (super glue) to instantly adhere the rock or frag to the epoxy while it cures.

Anyone interested in photography should not purchase a bowfront or curved panel tank as the glass bends distort the image and resulting photos.

[AJ :)]

Great thread!
A childs fishing pole can work great for removing a fish from a reef tank.
Barbless hook of course.

:snorkel:

[CalmSeasQuest]

Over time, airlines used in Durso drains can become partially blocked by salt creep and/or mineral deposits. This can reduce the amount of air allowed into the drain thereby reducing the capacity of the drain, causing surging and an increase in noise. There are methods to correct this without having to remove the airline (often difficult if your Durso is buried deep in an overflow.)


Pour small amounts of hot water down the airline. This typically dissolves the blockage and cures the problem.

For more stubborn blockages, a straightened coat hangar can be used to "ream" the airline and restore it's capacity.

[Wy Renegade]

An old plastic water bottle, with the lid cut off an inverted makes a great, inexpensive fish trap;
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii7/rowlandr/Reef%20Diary/Misc/April%202008/MiscDiamondWatchmanGobyinFishTrap29.jpg

Plastic zip ties work great for holding LR in position;
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii7/rowlandr/Reef%20Diary/Misc/April%202008/MiscZipTiesonLR22April08.jpg

A small plastic cup with slots cut in the side works great for attaching unattached mushrooms like ricordia;
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii7/rowlandr/Reef%20Diary/Misc/March%202009/SoftiesOrange-blueRicordiafl26March.jpg

[CalmSeasQuest]

Great stuff Randy - I especially like the slotted bottle for Ricordia. Slippery little buggers don't care much for cyanoacrylate :)

[Wy Renegade]

Thanks Thomas. No those ricordia don't care for superglue, but once they attach to a piece of rubble its easy enough to superglue them where you want them.

[Heidi]

So I came up w/ one! Filter-socks . . . gross, how do you clean those yucky things? Some people launder them in the washing machine w/ NO detergent. I have a front load washer and w/o filling it up with towels or whatever else the socks would have nothing to agitate them clean, so . . . Dishwashers clean hats really well, why not socks? SO I have been putting them in there with a small jam jar full of white vinegar. Inside out so the part that comes in contact w/ the nasty stuff is facing out. I put it on sanitize, extra rinse and steam clean cycles. I don't add detergent. 2 Hours later: squeaky clean! I put my other reef stuff in there w/ them like the bottle brushes I use and I have even put my skimmer w/o the pump in there. Just remember no detergent just vinegar.

[rosebud161616]

Ziploc Silence Method
I developed an easy method to quiet a noisy overflow. Simply "drape" an appropriate size Ziploc bag immediately behind it. (usually secured with a couple zip ties.) The causes the water to run between the overflow and and the Ziploc bag in total silence... It also is self adjusting and requires little if any maintenance. I've had an overflow fitted with the same Ziploc for almost 2 years.


I'm not quite getting this... can you post a picture?

Great ideas, everyone!

[Badfish]

Wow this is an awesome thread keep them coming!!!

[CalmSeasQuest]

I'm not quite getting this... can you post a picture?

Great ideas, everyone!
Sure - Here you go...

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy141/tconwell/DSC_0724.jpg

That photo was taken 1/2010 and it's been running perfectly since. It doesn't have to be a Ziploc bag, it's just what I had handy. You could use any type of inert, thin plastic sheet. There's no risk of overflow as the plastic is placed inside the overflow and only affixed at the top. It moves in response to changes in water flow. At all flow rates, my overflow is now completely silent. There is no sound of moving water whatsoever

[CalmSeasQuest]

Another use of ZipLoc bags - When removing calcium deposits from parts such as pump impellers, I simply warm vinegar in a microwave, place the parts in a gallon size ZipLoc bag and add the vinegar. Evacuate the air and seal the bag.

This allows for 100% coverage of the parts while using far less vinegar than normally required if soaking in a bowl or bucket. It also largely eliminates the lingering smell of vinegar.

[mhowe9]

I have couple.

Using a Dobie pad instead of the replacement pads for a Magnavore, Mag Float ext. Actually works better.

Buying sushi nori @ Meijers instead of the LFS, same stuff much cheaper.

[cbau45]

Buying sushi nori @ Meijers instead of the LFS, same stuff much cheaper.

+1 to that. Great thread! Lots of useful stuff.

I've got a couple handy things. Keep some empty pop bottles around. A few with frozen water and a few empty for hot water are handy in the event of power outtages to either keep the temp up or to keep it cool if you don't have a generator handy.

If you have an old pump, some soft tubing, and a ziptie then you've got the equipment for a much quicker water change. You could even hook it up to a syphon. That's just my two cents though.

[CalmSeasQuest]

When using any liquid measured in drops (i.e. liquid test kit reagents) a simply way to make controlling the drops easier, is to squeeze the bottle slightly - then while inverting, release the pressure.

This creates a slight vacuum in the bottle and prevents drops from forming before you're ready.

[Wy Renegade]

A pair of wire strippers makes a great tool for fragging a small section of flesh off the bottom of a newly cut gorgonian frag. Makes gluing the frag much easier.

[redemer123]

remember to clean those powerheads, this is what I got after neglecting mine for a few months....this use to be a vinegar and water solution. being so dirty my koralia 1400, and 750 were barely blowing and causing the polyps in my tank to get a strange brown sludge on their skirts more flow = happy zoanthids and palys :)...and noo the black did not come from the powerheads black color they were just reaally dirty lol.
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa460/Redemer123/DSC_0167.jpg

[CalmSeasQuest]

While recently servicing my RO/DO, I took a few minutes to observe the impact input pressure had on it's performance.


~350 TDS, softened well water
BRS 75 GPD 6 stage RO/DI.
Water pressure ranges from 35 - 60 PSI (depending on accumulator charge)

At 35 PSI, the RO generates 4 TDS water
At 60 PSI, the RO generates 2 TDS water
I haven't done a time comparison, but it's obviously much faster at higher pressures.

As a result, I am installing a boost pump as doing so will at least double the life of my DI resin - Perhaps even more when operating above 60 PSI.

As the DI resin is usually the most expensive component of making zero-TDS water, the pump investment will quickly be recovered with the additional benefit of making more water over less time.

[Corvette Reefer]

great thread ill try thinking of mine, well idk if this counts as one but using a hob fliter as a refugeim has helped my tank a Tonnn!

[MizTanks]

I bought some window tint for the sides of my tank~I chose the type where you can see in but not out~it's uv proof and since my tank sits in my living room with a window on each side of it~look maw no algae on the glass! I just raise it if I want to look inside :)

[CalmSeasQuest]

Just installed the boost pump and set the pressure to 80 PSI (recommended to extend the life of the seals.) RO product water now 1 TDS (a 300% improvement, cross checked inline meter with handheld.) Although I haven't done a timed measurement, I'd estimate water production has more than doubled.

Prior to installation of the boost pump, my pressure ranged from 35~60 PSI depending on the accumulator charge, producing water averaging ~3 TDS from the RO. This should about triple the performance/longevity of my DI resin. :big_grin:

[Badfish]

If you ever need to cut PVC pipe in a small area where you can't fit a saw,(like under a tank stand...) you can use nylon string. Put the string around the pipe pull back on it like you're a Mafia hit-man, and then start a sawing motion. After you get going fast enough it will cut through it. This is an old plumber's trick.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Depending on the depth of your tank, take 2-3 large diameter straws (i.e. Slurpee straws) and join them together.
Place the straw in the tank with the end placed directly over the animal you wish to feed.
With pumps turned off, simply drop the pellets in the top of the straw and direct them onto the target corals.

If you use the straws that have a wide "shovel like" end, use that end at the top as it makes it easier to drop the pellets into the straw.

This works great for feeding Acans, Duncans, Wellso, Hammers/Torches...pretty much anything with a mouth. I even use it to create a "food pile" in a corner of the tank to feed the inverts so prior to feeding the corals so the shrimp don't steal from the corals. I use the Fauna Marin LPS Pellets and get a great feeding response from just about everything. It's a bit tedious feeding hundreds of heads, but way everyone gets fed and virtually nothing ends up on the substrate.

[MizTanks]

Don't try using airline tubing with a syringe to feed your corals~dang thing just floats and ya gotta stick you arm in the tank anyways :doh:

[larryandlaura]

This is a awesome thread. I've learned so much.

[Seirre]

Keep an extra light bulb or two of the kinds that you use. It will save you heartache!

[CalmSeasQuest]

Calcium reactors can be a great way to maintain Calcium and Alkalinity, but it can be a challenge getting them initially "dialed in." There are 2 variables - pH of the effluent and drip rate. Controlling the pH in the reactor is relatively simply with a controller and good regulator. Determining the optimal drip rate, making tiny adjustments and verifying that rate can be a bit tougher.

I found an easy way to monitor and adjust drip rates using a metronome (available free in the Android Market)

Instead of doing timed measurements (measuring how many mL of effluent drip into a container per given time), it's much easier and faster (seconds) to simply time the drops using the metronome.

1 drop = 0.05 mL
1 mL = 20 drops

For example - Using the above standard, if your your dripping at 2 drops per second, you're adding effluent at a rate of 6 ml per minute. (Note, 20 drops/mL is the standard used in Pharmacy however drop size varies based on tubing size. It's best to initially measure your output and calculate drop size.) Regardless of your actual drops/mL, this provides a consistent method of measurement allowing for tiny adjustments to be made without tedious timed measurements.

I use an app called Mobile Metronome (Android Market) that allows you to either simply "tap" the beats per minute (drip rate) on the screen. It then instantly tells you the drops per minute (DPM) or; you can set a specific DPM and it sounds out the cadence allowing you to easily mirror the drop rate to the metronome "clicks".

Either way - it's very simple to get an accurate measurement.

[rosebud161616]

Calcium reactors can be a great way to maintain Calcium and Alkalinity, but it can be a challenge getting them initially "dialed in." There are 2 variables - pH of the effluent and drip rate. Controlling the pH in the reactor is relatively simply with a controller and good regulator. Determining the optimal drip rate, making tiny adjustments and verifying that rate can be a bit tougher.

I found an easy way to monitor and adjust drip rates using a metronome (available free in the Android Market)

Instead of doing timed measurements (measuring how many mL of effluent drip into a container per given time), it's much easier and faster (seconds) to simply time the drops using the metronome.

1 drop = 0.05 mL
1 mL = 20 drops

For example - Using the above standard, if your your dripping at 2 drops per second, you're adding effluent at a rate of 6 ml per minute. (Note, 20 drops/mL is the standard used in Pharmacy however drop size varies based on tubing size. It's best to initially measure your output and calculate drop size.) Regardless of your actual drops/mL, this provides a consistent method of measurement allowing for tiny adjustments to be made without tedious timed measurements.

I use an app called Mobile Metronome (Android Market) that allows you to either simply "tap" the beats per minute (drip rate) on the screen. It then instantly tells you the drops per minute (DPM) or; you can set a specific DPM and it sounds out the cadence allowing you to easily mirror the drop rate to the metronome "clicks".

Either way - it's very simple to get an accurate measurement.

You mentioned that you're using an app... what are you installing this app on? Are you using it with your controller? If so, what controller?

[CalmSeasQuest]

You mentioned that you're using an app... what are you installing this app on? Are you using it with your controller? If so, what controller?

It's a free app available for smart phones. I use an Android phone (Epic 4g) but I would assume there are similar apps for Apple users as well.

No controller integration - just an simple way to confirm the amount of effluent you are adding to your tank :)

[Seirre]

I recently moved a short distance away and had to take down and reset my tank rapidly. I didnt want to make new water and reaclimate everything so I put all my tank water and live rock in buckets. Here is the point. I didnt have bags and rubberbands to move fish and coral. I went to the local Martins Supermarket and bought Ziploc disposable tupperware. These are fantastic. Not only can you catch your fish in them along with dipping water out, but the lids form a tight seal. I plan on buying more to take to my local fish and coral provider based on how well these performed.

[CalmSeasQuest]

When dosing bacterial additives and/or a carbon source (especially if dosing both) keep an eye on any mechanical filter media such as felt filter socks. The rapid increase of bacteria in the water column can quickly clog filter socks.

I had an instance where the plastic rim of a large filter sock was near the edge of the sump. When the filter sock became clogged due to MB-7 and Vinegar/Kalk ATO, it began pouring onto the floor. This happened rapidly as the filter sock had been changed the prior day.

[carlitofish]

When adding new fish that may get attacked by your old fish, get a hamster ball and put the new fish in that for a couple of days first. To catch a fish turn all lights off and catch them with a flashlight. I can keep going on cleaning if you want.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Here's one for those deciding where to place their tank...

Assess the possible locations, ideally determining at least two suitable locations. Then go against your instincts and place your tank in the second most desirable location.

You will fully realize the importance of this decision some months later when you inevitably decide to install a larger tank, which can then be placed in the favored location without having to tear down your current tank in preparation for the the new build.

[thefishgirl]

Here's one for those deciding where to place their tank...

Assess the possible locations, ideally determining at least two suitable locations. Then go against your instincts and place your tank in the second most desirable location.

You will fully realize the importance of this decision some months later when you inevitably decide to install a larger tank, which can then be placed in the favored location without having to tear down your current tank in preparation for the the new build.

This is the best advice I've seen so far! LOL

[CalmSeasQuest]

This is the best advice I've seen so far! LOL
Thanks Becky! - That sounds like a "been there, got the T-shirt" kind of response ;)

[CalmSeasQuest]

For those using test kits requiring powder reagents (i.e. Hanna Phosphate checkers) - I have found a relatively simple way to improve the powder dosing...

Hold the packet diagonally so that one corner is at the bottom, tap it to make sure all the reagent is in the bottom corner, then using a pair of scissors, cut the packet entirely in half diagonally.

It's then very easy to "pinch" it into the shape of a spout making it easy to pour and visually confirm that all the powder had been added to the cuvette.