GFO without a reactor?

[MizTanks]

Simple question here folks. Can I put a filter bag filled with BRS GFO and put it in a high flow area in my fuge and have it work.
Please know, I know it would work best with a reactor. But unless someone has one they want to give away, shipping and all. Don't suggest one to me as I haven't the $$$.

[marc49127]

It will work to a point and I have used it this way to lower phosphates with success. I think the chemipure elite bags are just gfo and carbon.

[jimsflies]

That's all I do...I mix GFO with carbon in a mesh filter bag and put it in the back compartment of my biocube. I rinse the bag (with the GO and carbon in it) prior to placing in my tank to remove the fine dust particles.

When I had a GFO reactor running I found it to easily turn into cement in the reactor and was a pain to change out. (Not to mention some reactors are just a pain to open up and change anyway.) The filter bag method is a lot easier and simpler. It may not be as "efficient" but for me it works out just fine.

Also, you are better off putting small amounts...in a bag and changing it more often than large amounts and changing it less often in my experience.

[rosebud161616]

It will do some good. Better than nothing. The big problem is GFO clumps very easy and the tumbling action in the reactor not only makes it work better, but stops it from clumping so it works longer. If you knead it every day or two, it should really help.

[jimsflies]

The clumping or turning to cement is why I like to add the carbon to it. It helps keep it from doing that. But yeah, little amounts more often are better because it can turn into a solid mass that isn't as efficient.

The reactor in theory helps this, but you have to get the flow just right because too little and it clumps, too much and the stuff will turn into finer particles and flow out of the reactor.

For a smaller tank, the filter bag method works about as well as the reactor.

[MizTanks]

Ok this is good info~BRS sells the fine grain, the pellet and the larger rock like gfo. Wouldn't the pellet or larger of the gfo work best? I think the larger would allow for more flow, without the worry of it clumping. Yes/No?

[msk007]

Following up from http://www.captivereefs.com/forum/meet-greet/hi-msk007-welcome-captive-reefs-19794/#post137847 , I have put the GFO in a sock in the belly of the sump and have been doing 10% water changes every other day. I'm using "PhosGuard" pellets. It's now 4 days later and I can't get the phosphates down! The test kit I have (LFS matched) are topped out in the test at 10ppm. After last night's suggestion, I've ordered a reactor but it's not in yet.... Does anyone else have any suggestions for getting phosphates down? Tap water is about 2.5ppm and out of the RODI it's 0. Tank is 220g w/ 40g sump.

[larryandlaura]

I run phosGuard in a bag mixed with carbon. Now im going to try out a GFO reactor when I get home Andy has. Im trying to bring my phosphates down a bit more.

[BCTate]

Following up from http://www.captivereefs.com/forum/meet-greet/hi-msk007-welcome-captive-reefs-19794/#post137847 , I have put the GFO in a sock in the belly of the sump and have been doing 10% water changes every other day. I'm using "PhosGuard" pellets. It's now 4 days later and I can't get the phosphates down! The test kit I have (LFS matched) are topped out in the test at 10ppm. After last night's suggestion, I've ordered a reactor but it's not in yet.... Does anyone else have any suggestions for getting phosphates down? Tap water is about 2.5ppm and out of the RODI it's 0. Tank is 220g w/ 40g sump.

For me, it took a good 4 weeks for the GFO to get my phosphates down to undetectable! IMO, 4 days is just the start! Initially, you may need to replace the GFO every week, as it can deplete it's phosphate binding ability quickly if the phosphates in your system are really high. Once you get your phosphates to the desired level, the GFO can then last up to a month before needing replaced. HTH!

[The Rugger]

What are the Opinions on the best GFO?

[msk007]

For me, it took a good 4 weeks for the GFO to get my phosphates down to undetectable! IMO, 4 days is just the start! Initially, you may need to replace the GFO every week, as it can deplete it's phosphate binding ability quickly if the phosphates in your system are really high. Once you get your phosphates to the desired level, the GFO can then last up to a month before needing replaced. HTH!

About a month later now, have reactor running 24/7 and the sock in the belly... Still at 10ppm... I've added some macro algae, no difference, changed from PhosGuard pellets after 2 weeks to PhosBan (GFO) b/c the LFS said they've been getting lots of reports that the PhosGuard wasn't working... Slowly creeping down now after 2 weeks it seems, as the tests don't seem to be AS dark, though still looking like 10ppm.

[AZDesertRat]

GFO works slowly which is a good thing so you don't shock your system, remember all good things take time, only bad things happen quickly.

While you can run GFO in a bag it is not as effective since it does not fluidize the medi as evenly. You should not place it in high flow areas also since it will grind itself to dust causing a whole othe rset of problems. Low to medium flow so it is not agitated. I do not mix GFO and carbon since they both have different useful lives and different flow requirements, I keep separate reactors. When mixed you either waste the GFO or extend the carbon past its useful life since GFO lasts longer than carbon once you have the phosphates in check and are using it for maintenance or a preventive measure.

There are only two major manufacturers or ferric oxide media in the world so chances are 75-90% of it comes from Bayer Chemical, possibly via Severn Trent since they sell most of it at the wholesale level to the vendors. Some have different grain sizes and some are pelletized which I prefer myself as it does not clump as bad and is not as messy.

[msk007]

While you can run GFO in a bag it is not as effective since it does not fluidize the medi as evenly. You should not place it in high flow areas also since it will grind itself to dust causing a whole othe rset of problems. Low to medium flow so it is not agitated.

Sorry I wasn't more clear. I'm running it in a bag in the sump belly AND in a reactor. I know it's slow... Today we're finally down to 8ppm! I'm hoping by March to be at ~0 and be ready to start adding corals!