I got one!!

[MizTanks]

Got my RO/DI unit today!!! Thank you Mr. and Mrs. Binford4000!! Now someone wanna help me hook it up to my tap? Red hose to water container righ? Black to the tap right? and green is waste right? Now I need the connector that will allow me to connect it to my tap. Here's the unit :) Yes I'm happy :tongue_out:

[Jarred1]

It looks like red hose is to sink, black hose on the brown top front container to water container, and black hose is to drain.

[nate_newton]

Looks like red to the tap here also, because sediment is first.

[CableGuy]

Always good to have one of these!!

[AZDesertRat]

Hard to tell but red is definitely the tap water in.
The sequence goes, sediment, carbon, RO membrane, DI filter.
The waste is the one with the small white piece inline with something like 500mL stamped on it.

You can improve the performance tremendously if you take the horizontal DI chamber off the top and mount it vertically like the other canistersand so that it fills from the bottom and drains from the top. Horizontals are extremely poor performers since they short circuit or channel and not all resin and ater come into contact with each other.

[larryandlaura]

Awesome Jamie congratulations!

[binford4000]

Glad you got it in one piece.Installation is easy pezzy(LOL)
Red line-- this is supply line from your tap
Black line --this is your brine so it goes to the drain
Blue line-- this is your permite or good water it goes to your stoarge container

I labeled the bags that filters were in and the DI and filters are less then a month old so if you run the system all going into the drain for awhile you should be all set.This unit has a shutoff on it so if you make a storage tank with a float valve the back pressure will shut the r/o di off so you could plumb it in to a line or if room is an issue Lowes sells an adapter for your faucet.Last readings from the unit was 270 in and 0 ppm out. I did not clean the unit so you might want to mix up some mild bleach water to clean the bowls and houseing then flush it by running it awhile.I left couplars on the end of each line so all you need is some 1/4 inch ice maker line from the hardware.All you have to do is cut the the line square and push it into the couplar and then cut to desired length,As far as putting the di vertical compared to horizontal as the manufactor built it,that's up to you.The unit has a flow check valve in it and the only time I've seen lack of contact time is when the unit is driven off very low pressure.Good luck and have fun.If you need more help LMK

[MizTanks]

Yahoooo for meeeee!! I got great water goooo Jamie!!! I'll hit up Lowes on Wednesday for the adapter...then it's my very first ro/di water change. Do I need to be looking out for anything in particular? As far as parameters go? My tanks been very much right on and I'm hoping it stays that way.

How will I know how high I should turn my water up too? I mean run it fast, slow or in between? Do I need to be concerned about water sitting in the bowls for any length of time. I'll be making up my water at 5g's every 4-6 weeks and then using fresh for daily top off.

[AZDesertRat]

Yahoooo for meeeee!! I got great water goooo Jamie!!! I'll hit up Lowes on Wednesday for the adapter...then it's my very first ro/di water change. Do I need to be looking out for anything in particular? As far as parameters go? My tanks been very much right on and I'm hoping it stays that way.

How will I know how high I should turn my water up too? I mean run it fast, slow or in between? Do I need to be concerned about water sitting in the bowls for any length of time. I'll be making up my water at 5g's every 4-6 weeks and then using fresh for daily top off.
If your water quality has been OK until now you will not notice anything spectacular. What you will get is consistency though with RO/DI, as long as you maintain it as recommended you will get the same high quality every time unlike tap water that changes day to day or hour to hour.

You attach the RO/DI to the cold water and turn the valve or faucet on all the way, the more pressure the better it will work up to about 150 psi which you are not going to have in your home. RO membranes depend on presure not flow or volume, two different things. A 75 GPD membrane will use about a quart a minute between treated and brine or waste so the flow is minimal, its the wide open unrestricted faucet or valve that provides full pressure.

You will leave the water in the canisters between uses an you need to use the RO/DI unit at least every 10-14 days in order to keep it working properly. You should make a minimum of 3-5 gallons in a continous run each time you use it to keep the membrane flushed. By "fresh" I hope you mean your daily top offs will be with fresh RO/DI whichcan be stored for months on end as long as it is covered or sealed. I use clear 5G drinking water jugs for long term storage for water changes and a covered 23 gallon Rubbermaid recycling can for auto topoff storage. The TDS is always 0 in both no matter how long I store them.

If you really must go more than a couple weeks between uses you need to remove the RO membrane and DI resin and place them in sealed zip loc bags with a little RO/DI water to keep them moist and place them in the back of the refrigerator.

I find that is a pain so I recommend using the RO portion of the RO/DI for drinking, cooking and pet watering so you keep it in use, its stays fresh and the membrane lasts longer.

[binford4000]

If Lowes does not have the tap faucet to 1/4 inch adapter LMK,I know I have one some where in the mess of a fishroom that I'm supose to keep up.Mrs Binford draws the line from time to time and picking up the geek room as she calls it fits that line. :oldman: LOL As far as pressure the more the better,As AZ stated,let it rip.If your on city water and close to the water tower it should be fine.

[AZDesertRat]

If Lowes does not have the tap faucet to 1/4 inch adapter LMK,I know I have one some where in the mess of a fishroom that I'm supose to keep up.Mrs Binford draws the line from time to time and picking up the geek room as she calls it fits that line. :oldman: LOL As far as pressure the more the better,As AZ stated,let it rip.If your on city water and close to the water tower it should be fine.
They will have them but you may have to screw two parts together. You need a hose thread to 1/4" adapter like used to screw a pressure gauge on to a hose bib or garden hose, probably brass which is OK, and a 1/4" MIP x John Guest Speed Fit adapter which will be plastic. Maybe $5 total?

[binford4000]

They will have them but you may have to screw two parts together. You need a hose thread to 1/4" adapter like used to screw a pressure gauge on to a hose bib or garden hose, probably brass which is OK, and a 1/4" MIP x John Guest Speed Fit adapter which will be plastic. Maybe $5 total?

They sell an all plastic one with the Guest adapter which is a fine thread that fits your faucet.You will have to remove the screen and then screw it on by hand.Should be able to find it in the plumbing dept or go to the household ro systems and ask the helpfull Lowe's emplyoee.Brass is bad in my book ha ha ha

[MizTanks]

I'm sorry guys but I've no idea what ya'll are talking about :( wouldn't something like this work? What else do I need?

http://www.marinedepot.com/Standard_Faucet_Adapter_Quick_Connect_Faucet_Coupl er_Plumbing_Parts_for_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-Captive_Purity-RO1317-FIRORARP-vi.html

[AZDesertRat]

Yes that will work if its a faucet adapter you are looking for.
Brass is perfectly fine as long as it is on the tap water side, its DI water that is agressive so no metals on the treated side.

The hose thread adapter I am referring to is at the bottom of the page here on the left:

PLUMBING ACCESSORIES FOR RO (http://www.spectrapure.com/St_fd_valves.htm)

[binford4000]

coo; web page AZ,that's exactly what I was trying explain

[MizTanks]

Finally the adapter arrived (after almost 3 weeks) I've got it hooked up (correctly I hope) now as for the *blue* valve in what position should it be in? Do I run it wide open? The di house doesn't appear to be completely full of water. Hopefully someone answers soon before I mess the unit up lol

[binford4000]

Finally the adapter arrived (after almost 3 weeks) I've got it hooked up (correctly I hope) now as for the *blue* valve in what position should it be in? Do I run it wide open? The di house doesn't appear to be completely full of water. Hopefully someone answers soon before I mess the unit up lol

if your talking about the valve off the di,yes open it all the way open

[MizTanks]

if your talking about the valve off the di,yes open it all the way open

By open all the way should it be positioned as it is in the picture? Is it supposed to be just a light trickle? The water out of the waste runs fast?

[binford4000]

By open all the way should it be positioned as it is in the picture? Is it supposed to be just a light trickle? The water out of the waste runs fast?
you got it,amazing how little water you actually get for your tank.Hows the TDS

[AZDesertRat]

You need to measure the treated and waste flows with a measuring cup and watch or clock. Time each for one minute. The waste should be almost exactly 4 times the treated flow or 4:1 waste ratio. If not you may need a different flow restrictor.
The DI canister will never be full, its a gravity system on that side and is dependent on the elevation of the outlet in comparison to the canister. No worries, that normal.