View Full Version : Nitrogen Cycle & Phosphate Well Water
Phil N
08-15-2011, 07:17 PM
I will be moving up north (Traverse City) and will be using well water for my aquarium. I have a Kent Maxima RODI unit but was wondering if anyone has any recommendations or suggestions for using this water in my aquarium? Thanks.......
MizTanks
08-15-2011, 09:36 PM
Do not use well water :)
AZDesertRat
08-16-2011, 12:01 AM
Use the RO/DI for consistency.
Domestic wells can easily be influenced by things like nearby septic systems and leach fields, agricultural runoff or leachate, leaking underground storage tanks or stormwater runoff since they are usually pretty shallow and often older so not constructed to todays standards. You may also have high mineral content which may not be desirable since salt mixes are designed for pure water so you get the correct amount of everything needed and nothing else.
The RO/DI will remove all that and give you the same pure water every time provided you do the minimal maintenance on it every 6 months or so.
larryandlaura
08-16-2011, 04:23 AM
I would stick with your ro/di! What brings you to Northern Michigan?
jimsflies
08-16-2011, 06:24 AM
Use the RO/DI for consistency.
Domestic wells can easily be influenced by things like nearby septic systems and leach fields, agricultural runoff or leachate, leaking underground storage tanks or stormwater runoff since they are usually pretty shallow and often older so not constructed to todays standards. You may also have high mineral content which may not be desirable since salt mixes are designed for pure water so you get the correct amount of everything needed and nothing else.
The RO/DI will remove all that and give you the same pure water every time provided you do the minimal maintenance on it every 6 months or so.
The chances for water quality being this poor is slim on a well that is used as a primary drinking water source for a residence, at least here in Michigan due to good aquifers and a long standing well construction code (assuming it was constructed with a permit and not someone's DIY job). You can have your water tested for total coliform and partial chemistry (chloride, fluoride, hardness, iron, nitrate, nitrite, sodium, and sulfate) to verify it is "decent" quality. Bacteria IME is not one of those things that is intermittent, once you have it, it generally doesn't go away on its own. Both of these tests together run about $30 to perform. Here is a link for more info: http://www.michigan.gov/documents/deq/deq-ess-faq-water-wb-homewaterwells-testing_206706_7.pdf
I agree that using well water is not the best option. I think the logic is the same with well water as municipal water...it is best to start at a known quality (zero concentration of all minerals/contaminants) and add what you need back in with the salt mix and additives. You are likely to go through filter membranes more quickly and have higher reject water volumes due to iron and hardness in the water.
Tropical Tails
08-16-2011, 10:10 AM
I own an aquarium shop in central Michigan which has around 1500 gallons of saltwater, both fish and corals. We do not and never have used RODI. We pre mix our water in a large tub, then filter it through simple, air powered box filters containing carbon and phosban for around a week, then use it in both our coral and salt tanks. I have had zero issues with the water and saved hunreds, if not thousands of dollars over the years in electricity, wasted water, membranes and additives to put back into the water the things mother nature left there. In the meantime, a good friend of mine has spent two thousand dollars on a huge RO unit and automatic topoff. In addition, he has bought several refractometers and meters to measure impurities in the water in addition to a 300 gallon storage tank, yet his 500 gallon reef has crashed twice. I'll stick with my wellwater.
larryandlaura
08-16-2011, 12:59 PM
I own an aquarium shop in central Michigan which has around 1500 gallons of saltwater, both fish and corals. We do not and never have used RODI. We pre mix our water in a large tub, then filter it through simple, air powered box filters containing carbon and phosban for around a week, then use it in both our coral and salt tanks. I have had zero issues with the water and saved hunreds, if not thousands of dollars over the years in electricity, wasted water, membranes and additives to put back into the water the things mother nature left there. In the meantime, a good friend of mine has spent two thousand dollars on a huge RO unit and automatic topoff. In addition, he has bought several refractometers and meters to measure impurities in the water in addition to a 300 gallon storage tank, yet his 500 gallon reef has crashed twice. I'll stick with my wellwater.
Wow Im going to try that Larry.
rmalone
08-16-2011, 01:38 PM
Larry, while I will agree with you that using well water can work, I also think your being a bit irresponsible suggesting it as a _general practice. What are your out of the ground parameters? Well water is notoriously inconsistent from area to area. Well water can also be inconsistent throughout the year from the same well. The average reefer should be using ro/di.
Your buddy that crashed his tank twice, are you suggesting that ro/di water contributed to said crash? IMO, short of a power failure, two crashes just shows me the reefer in question is either negligent, ignorant or foolish.
jimsflies
08-16-2011, 02:15 PM
The problem is that everyone's water is different. Short of spending a couple thousand on water tests, you don't know what you really have to start with. This is why the RO/DI is good...it starts us a zero so that the only thing in the water is stuff we add ourselves.
redemer123
08-16-2011, 02:21 PM
I highly doubt RO water had any contribution to a tank crashing, IMO it is essential for a reefs health to be using RO water not to say it hasn't or doesn't work for some people to be using well water but it is highly recommend by anyone who knows anything about SW tanks to be using an RO unit so one can have the least amount of impurities in the water as possible. So ill say what pretty much everyone else is saying and go with the ro/di. :)
---------- Post added at 02:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:19 PM ----------
The problem is that everyone's water is different. Short of spending a couple thousand on water tests, you don't know what you really have to start with. This is why the RO/DI is good...it starts us a zero so that the only thing in the water is stuff we add ourselves. + 100,000,000,000 jim :) lol well said
rmalone
08-16-2011, 08:29 PM
My last post was actually directed at Tropical tails NOT Larryandlaura, sorry about that! And again well water could and has worked. I just see no reason to go there.
AZDesertRat
08-17-2011, 08:51 AM
RO/DI provides stability and consistency. We keep critters in a glass box, under artificial light and out of their natural elements so we as reef hobbyists should provide the best care possible. One of those is a good consistent water supply. Unfortunately much of our country no longer has that, those with stable walls are in the minority. I know that because I started out my water career as a well driller back in 1974 and have stayed in the industry ever since.
RO or RO/DI is not going to crash a system. Something else was involved.
Tropical Tails
08-17-2011, 08:55 AM
My friend is neither foolish nor irresponsible. I didn't say all well water was good or that RODI contributed to the reef's crash. I think that people tend to use cause and effect relationships in living systems that are not logical. Just the fact that you are changing water when using RODI could be why people see an improvement. They have high levels of nirtogen or ammonia, someone suggests they try RO water, they do a water change, which lowers the pollutant levels and they attribute it to the RO water. This is not a logical conclusion. One other thing to consider is self interest. Many of the people who encourage the use of RO water sell RO water. I also sell RO water, but I don't consider it something everyone must buy. To automatically recommend RO water in all circumstances without knowing anything about the tank conditions seems on the surface to be erring on the side of caution, but is also erring on the side of profit.
I didn't just decide to use my well water. I have a device wich measures the ppm of contaminants in water, which I employed. I was actually using RO water in my system up until a couple years ago. Then, a guy named John came to my shop. He claimed to have worked for a wholesaler, importer in Indiana, who had told him to filter regular water and that it usually could be used. He tried it and had no trouble. He told me, I tried it. I have had no trouble. If you wish to try, be my guest. I won't consider you "foolish or negligent" if you do.
Tropical Tails
08-17-2011, 09:02 AM
****postscript***
My friend stopped in last night. He finally figured out the problem. It turns out that he had high levels of Phosphate. You see, he was so concerned about the purity of what he was putting in his tank, he forgot about the levels that were already there. I have seen this response time after time. A hobbyist has trouble, and they are thinking of buying a better RO, or some other method of purifying the water going in, without paying attention to the basic biology. Time after time, it is the presence of nitrogen, ammonia or phosphate causing the problem, not the purity of the water you are putting in your tank.
AZDesertRat
08-17-2011, 09:15 AM
Again, RO/DI provides stability and consistency. Well and surface water conditions change. In the case of a well the aquifer goes up and down with seasonal storms and groundwater recharge, this recharge also brings contaminants. With treated surface water say a storm rolls through, treatment techniques and chemical additions will change, as a result the treated water changes. It could be as simple as the pH is different or there could be additional sodiumhexametaphosphate added for corrosion control if the pH dropped.
The point is with RO/DI you have ultimate control of that water quality and you don't have to question if its the water or not. I'm glad well water works for you but again its not the norm and probably should not be recommended to someone new in the hobby, they have too many things to worry about to begin with. It is an option but not one most of us would take.
I don't sell RO units or even sell water, I troubleshoot and commission large water and wastewater treatment plants and distribution/collection systems so have nothing to gain other than helping someone new in the hobby avoid the mistakes many of us made 30 years ago when we started in the hobby so they don't get frustrated and quit.
Tropical Tails
08-17-2011, 09:15 AM
This:
"short of a power failure, two crashes just shows me the reefer in question is either negligent, ignorant or foolish. "
Seems rather rude and combatitive. If this is the way you folks discuss things, I'm glad to have other things to do. Now, if you'll excuse me, I have 120+ tanks to take care of. Enjoy your discussion,
redemer123
08-17-2011, 10:05 AM
IMO opinion there's no discussion or argument to be had, this thread could have answered the users question with one reply. its very simple, go with RO water.
MizTanks
08-17-2011, 10:48 AM
This comment( QUOTE]Your buddy that crashed his tank twice, are you suggesting that ro/di water contributed to said crash? IMO, short of a power failure, two crashes just shows me the reefer in question is either negligent, ignorant or foolish.)
was totally uncalled for. I'm offended to see this sort of talk here on CR. Makes me feel as I would if someone used the "f" word in my presence...YUCK!
rmalone
08-17-2011, 02:19 PM
All right, all right!! No rudeness was indended, my apologizes. But, if the tank was crashing from excessive phosphates was that NOT negligence or ignorance? Perhaps the word foolish was uncalled for but I myself have been guily of negligence and ignorance both with regard to tanks and other issues. Tanks dont just crash on their own, plants don't just die on their own, there is always some causal agent be it environment or contaminate or even pehaps age, etc.
If I yanked a few feathers I'm sorry! But I stand by the comment that if your tank crashes and it wasn't related to a power failure, then you almost certainly screwed something up (no shame in it but at least own it). Or something you added to the tank wasn't what it should have been, bad salt etc. But usually a crashed tank is just operator error.
Keep in mind ignorance doesn't mean stupid, it just means you don't know. Ignorance can be mitigated with education, foolish(stupid) cannot. One more time, foolish, probably negligence were bad choices of words and I'm sorry.
redemer123
08-17-2011, 02:22 PM
:blahblah:
rmalone
08-17-2011, 02:33 PM
:)
:blahblah:
MizTanks
08-17-2011, 02:54 PM
:neener::neener:
:)
Heidi
08-17-2011, 04:15 PM
I will be moving up north (Traverse City) and will be using well water for my aquarium. I have a Kent Maxima RODI unit but was wondering if anyone has any recommendations or suggestions for using this water in my aquarium? Thanks.......
So hi Phil sounds like this whole thread is a bit moot ;). You have an rodi correct? So hook it up and don't take your chances. My mother has phosphates in here well water... I had phosphates in the "ro" water I used to buy from the grocery store. I prefer to start with a zero or very near to that tds, and the only way to do that is use your rodi.
Best of luck!
Heidi
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