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View Full Version : Nitrogen Cycle & Phosphate liquid phosphate binder?



DaytonaConnection
11-19-2005, 05:24 PM
when using a liquid phosphate binder, directions say leave filters running,what about the skimmers, also itsaid totest after 72 hours, does it really work?has anyone use a liquid binder....

jerryc
11-19-2005, 07:20 PM
I haven't ill be interested in the response you get

davejnz
11-20-2005, 01:44 PM
I'm hesitant to use any phosphate absorbing media in a reef tank.Many corals respond negatively to it.I'll be interested in hearing the results you achieve with it though.

DaytonaConnection
11-20-2005, 02:15 PM
well two days have pass not much to tell, by looking, havent tested yet....

Limpit
11-20-2005, 04:06 PM
Where are your phosphates comming from to begin with?
More than likely it is your water sorce so why not install an RO filter and get rid of your phosphates before they can even get in your tank.
Even the cheap $100 units that are on eBay work pretty well.

DaytonaConnection
11-20-2005, 05:28 PM
thats what iam trying to do,ck out my first post, it will tell you what happendi think it was from a little of every thing....

davejnz
11-20-2005, 06:56 PM
Phosphate tests will only tell you if you have inorganic PO4,problem is PO4 will readily bond with organics making testing useless

DaytonaConnection
11-20-2005, 07:41 PM
This is what someome on here said, Not to repeat what othersstated, butI think maybe the better question is (and we know you have a lot of phosphates or you wouldn't have cyano which is actually a bacteria) is what is their source?Low water flow is probably also to blame. Here's some thoughts:
1. It can be in the flood (flake is terrible) or;
2. the water (tap is loaded with them and using an old RO/DI unit with a worn out membrane) or some cheaper salt mixes are high in phosphates as well.
3. Try turning up your skimmer so it makes a wet skimmate instead of a dry foam.
4. Rinse your frozen food really well before feeding with old SW.
6. Increase the amount and frequency of your water changes, and as a last resort;
7. Add a phosphate binder.
8. As you're already aware, change the bulbs.

If you're seeing negative effects to any corals or other inverst whenyou add the binder, then you should add less (only submerge half the bag), leave it in for a shorter period of time, or not at all. Good luck!

KG
11-20-2005, 08:32 PM
I would turn off the skimmer and then do a large water change afterwards with either RO/DI or distilled water only. What was the reason for using this product? Thanks for re-posting my original message, and it will work if you follow it. Good luck and keep us posted.
KG

DaytonaConnection
11-20-2005, 09:25 PM
from what iam starting to figure out was when i did that big water change a mont ago with all fresh ro water, that had something to do with it, also the addition of the new lights, also i found out that the water that i used from my lfs may not have been what thay said it was...

JustDavidP
11-21-2005, 01:17 PM
Simple Kalk Drip will bind phospate too...

Then you can skim it away :D

D

DaytonaConnection
11-21-2005, 07:12 PM
do you think not running my skimmer,is why iam not seeing much results

JustDavidP
11-22-2005, 07:50 AM
Well...from what friends have told me (I'm certainly no chemist...and depend on the likes of Randy Holmes Farley and others to help) which ever way you 'bind' the phosphate, it is put into a 'matter' whereby it is easier to skim. Most people report great differences in skimmer production when they drip Kalk. From what I've read, the kalk helps to 'encrust' or bind the phosphates and make them easier to be taken in by filtration.

Again, I'm just going on the word of the chemists, but did notice quite a difference in my Euroreef Skimmate production when I began dripping kalk. For what it's worth, I also lost every strand of hair algae shortly after beginning my kalk program.

Dave