Bryopsis - Magnesium - GFO discussion

[jimsflies]

This thread was automatically created from a recent chatbox discussion. The chat discussion starts on post 2 and goes to post 35.

[jimsflies]

yeah magnesium will kill it

[jimsflies]

if you do that and use more/fresh phosban you can get it under control

[jimsflies]

oh yeah...you have to use the tech m magnesium

[jimsflies]

well it will come back I think if the conditions are favorable

[jimsflies]

tech m contains bryopsis poison ;)

[jimsflies]

the key is to keep up on gfo

[jimsflies]

algae can't grow if you out compete it with gfo

[jimsflies]

I think all the gfo is pretty much the same

[jimsflies]

I get mine from bulk reef

[jimsflies]

I got my last batch from Reef Paradise though... and it is working great

[jimsflies]

I use the cheap stuff

[jimsflies]

I would say if you are fighting a problem to double it up and change it weekly

[jimsflies]

you should see results within a couple weeks

[jimsflies]

jamie I just hang it in a filter sock in my back compartment

[jimsflies]

I'm not a fan of reactors ...they either turn gfo into concrete or dust

[jimsflies]

but I am just running a baby tank...I might feel different with a bigger system

[MyNemesis]

I have the same problem in my frag tank, It is a battle. The Magnesium helps and I change out my carbon and Phosguard every three weeks instead of every month

[MizTanks]

jimsflies: are you using a reactor with it?

[MizTanks]

I can't afford a reactor nor do I have the space for one but would like to have the option of using GFO

[EMUreef]

i have this annoying algae growing in my frag tank, yet its no where else in my display or sump, its only in my frag tank, and its growing on everything, looks like bryopsis but slightly different

[EMUreef]

its wierd its like a HA/bryopsis mix and its brown

[EMUreef]

i had this crap before, did the tech m, it went away but now its back, any ONLY in the frag tank which makes no sense to me

[EMUreef]

my mag test only goes up to 1400ppm lol

[EMUreef]

so during lunch Tech M and New GFO it is, im im gonna try rowaphos

[EMUreef]

thats what i've read id just rather get it now and order some from BRS later

[EMUreef]

which one from BRS do you use jim the granular or the better type

[EMUreef]

http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/TLF-PHOSREC.html

[bigbill]

jimsflies: in my case the high mag was not a nuff did not start going away till i used tech m to keep my mag up

[bigbill]

jimsflies: something in not sure what lol

[bigbill]

i been useing phos ban and carbon with great success

[bigbill]

was told every 2 weeks till the phos are under contral then once a month

[bigbill]

jimsflies: everything is looking good now i add 100 grams a week ago

[bigbill]

jimsflies: not a fan of reactors eather

[BeakerBob]

I prefer a biological fix myself, but I ended up with the Tech-M solution.

See my older post on the bryopsis treatment HERE (http://www.captivereefs.com/forum/basics/bryopsis-treatment-series-skeptic-no-more-5801/)

[binford4000]

we also fight this issue just in the frag tank.I added a filter just for the frag tank and switched to tech m and it made a huge diffrence.I personally believe gfo is best ran in a reactor.It's important to keep the media fluidized to allow better contact time.If it turns to dust or cement it is used up.The duration of how long it last's depends on grain size and how turbulant it tumbles.I preffer the high capacity from BRS.Cost more but you can see the diffrence by testing.Allot of people make the mistake of rinseing gfo before putting into the sock or reactor.All manufactors instructions I've read recomend not doing this.So back to the reason why algae seams to thrieve in frag tanks?? The only sensable answer I can arrive to is that frag tanks do not have the same eco support system that our display tanks have.In our display tanks we have lots of live rock that helps with Po4 ,No2 and N03 control. Also most of us have a sand bed that contributes to the health of the water coulmn and allows the tiny critters a safe place to hide wich in return they eat excess waste food helping to control such things as algae.This of course is just my opinon but seams to make sense.This hit me last time I went to the trop.The vats they have are basicly just huge frag tanks with one exception.They have a huge amount of rock under the racks.I am planning to toss my cheato and add a second BK skimmer and plan to put some of the rock from the fuge into the frag tank to see if it makes diffrence.If your test kit only reads to 1400 just refill the syringe and continue tell the color change and add the findings to the 1400. I'll let you know if this rock idea makes a diffrence.Good luck :thumbsup:

[dlhirst]

If I am going to hang a filter sock full of GFO in my tank - do I want it to be in a high flow area? Does it work best with lots of water flowing across it?

[binford4000]

If I am going to hang a filter sock full of GFO in my tank - do I want it to be in a high flow area? Does it work best with lots of water flowing across it?

I would put in it an area with water flowing accross

[jimsflies]

I hang my gfo in a high flow spot in the second compartment of my biocube. The first compartment has the heater and apex probes, it overflows into the second...I have the filter sock hung right there so that water flows over it into compartment #2. Having it in this spot also quiets the water flowing over that overflow a little bit.

I also should add that I mix GFO and carbon in the filter sock about 50/50. The total volume is close to the diameter of a baseball. I feel the carbon helps keep the gfo from turning into a rock...although it is less of an issue with filter socks than it is with a reactors.

[Flynnstone]

Allot of people make the mistake of rinseing gfo before putting into the sock or reactor.All manufactors instructions I've read recomend not doing this. :thumbsup:

the media should always be rinsed before adding it to your system. the dust created during the shipping process will be released into the system, absorb small amounts of phosphates, settle into the tank, and as the phosphate level lowers, they will be released back into the system from the dust particles.

this is from BRS..


http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/Granular-Ferric-Oxide-GFO-Instructions

[binford4000]

the media should always be rinsed before adding it to your system. the dust created during the shipping process will be released into the system, absorb small amounts of phosphates, settle into the tank, and as the phosphate level lowers, they will be released back into the system from the dust particles.

this is from BRS..


Granular-Ferric-Oxide-(GFO)-Instructions (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/Granular-Ferric-Oxide-GFO-Instructions)

and rowa also say's not to rinse--go figure?? I have noticed it does last allot longer when you don't rinse it.The dust does no harm to fish or coral also.I use to rinse it all the time tell I read the rowa instructions.The filter pads in the reactor seem to catch most of the dust IMO.I presently use BRS's high capacity,about as close to rowa's phos ban but allot cheaper.I have not been rinseing it for almost a year and have seen no negative response from doing so.Also note that I stated the instructions I have read LOL.Not saying I'm right Just my .02 tho