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View Full Version : Algae & Pests LETS TALK ALGAE CONTROL!! kinda long read



graphixx
01-22-2006, 11:07 PM
Allright, I know that all of us at one point or another have battled nuisance algae. namely cyno.
I decided to do some homework and see what I could find to pass along to you guys. I actually learned quite a bit about this.
The thing that I found out that is the biggest help in eliminating these nuisance diatoms was to actually promote the controlled population of diatoms!!! BEAR WITH ME!!!

Most aquarist intro to diatoms is as an unsightly reddish brown coating of their sand and rocks in the first few weeks of a new tank. at that point, most of us decide that diatoms are a bad thing. and from there on the battle began. When diatoms are out of balance (like a bloom) they dont do anyone much good. but when diatom populations are in a stable balance with other proceses in your tank, they are very good for the whole system.
Good thing:
Diatoms compete with blue green algae for resources
Diatoms are much easier to remove from glass and acrylic and less unsightly than blue green algae.
diatoms are part of PLANKTON and just like planton products that you can buy, they provide a healthy natural food for filter feeders.
Diatoms consume nitrates and phosphates from the water column and fix them into their tissue where it can be filtered out of your system via your protein skimmer.
Diatoms on your sand are some of the best possible food for your cleanup crew and are likely to contribute to their longevity and increased health.

I am not going to go into how to dose sodium silicate, if you want to know PM me and I will tell you how to step by step

A couple other pointers
In any closed environment with animal life and light you are going to get plant life. Our tanks are not exception. so the only choice is whether you get the plant life you like, like corraline algae, macro algae, sea grasses, mangroves, or corals. or you get the plant life you dont like such as hair algae and cyno.
Every bit of ammonia, nitrate, phosphate, toxin, heavy metal, and carbon dioxide consumed or bioaccumulated by plant life you like is one less bit to feed the plant life you do not want or to adversly affect other life you like.

As long as the speed of phosphate removal is greater than the speed of production, all nuisance algae will eventually have to die off, as the phosphates are removed from the system.

the 2 things that confuse aquarists are that:
1. the resulting die off of algae takes time
2. zero test levels from the water column is not the same as zero production, or uptake, of PO4

The aquarist needs to enable the system to dump phosphates BEFORE they can get used by algae, if 5ppm of PO4 is produced, and 5ppm uptaken by algae, one will still test a level of zero, as this only measured excess that builds up in the water column.

The easiest way to eliminate one major source is via RODI water
the second, is to use a phosphate sponge, like phosguard, or rowaphos.

Since algae require phosphates to grow and thrive, PO4 removal is not only the true root CURE its also the least complicated treatment around, for dealing with nuisance algae.

Clean up crews (especially snails) merely recycle the algae, releasing the PO4 in their poop, to begin the process anew.

combine that with what most of us allready know:

increased flow in the tank
a good skimmer
not over feeding

and that nuisance algae is a lot easier to get a hold on than you think.

sorry for the long read. thanks for tagging along!!!

GREG

davejnz
01-23-2006, 01:07 AM
Very good post Greg,i agree totally.Test kits don't mean crap when it comes to evaluating your tanks nutrient level.Alot of people are anti-algae and go to alot of trouble trying to eliminate it.Algae plays a part in the Nutrient/Nitrogen cycle and is needed to help filter the water.Diatom's are probably the least problematic when it comes to nuissance algae.I never test Nitrogen levels in my tanks because of the reasons you stated.I use Diatom growth to let me know the nutrient levels in the tank.I went through periods of starving my corals(big mistake)and i only had to clean the diatoms off of the glass every 10days.Since reverting back to daily nightime feeding of my corals,i now clean the glass every 3-4 days.By monitoring there growth,it gives me a good idea of the nutrient levels in the tank.

davejnz
01-23-2006, 01:18 AM
I do however disagree with useing PO4 removal media as the CURE to nuissance algae.It does work,many people can attest to that.What scares me(I'm paranoid i guess)is that the zooxanthellae that live in corals tissue are also an algae.My limited experience(actually a 4month experiment) with starving/not adding foods/PO4/nutrients into the tank was a big mistake.I noticed poor growth,tissue recession,and even lost a couple corals because of it.

dakar
01-23-2006, 03:11 AM
Good post Greg, though I have to agree with Davejnz with the chemical filtration of PO4 to a degree. So long as your tank is able to process any available phostphates into diatoms before cyanobacteria can develop, AND your animals are able to consume these nutrients without them becoming a nussiance, at that point I feel the entire captive ecosystem is more 'balanced'.

For example; towards the end of our daylight photoperiod there is generally a light dusting of diatoms on the major portions of sandbed and very lightly on the tank glass, however by morning the cleanup crew (sea cukes, hermits, snails, fish, etc...) have performed their duties and 95% or more is consumed prior to the next photoperiod. The remainder being manually removed which are quickly consumed by tangs or other filter feeding animals, any remainder is mechanically removed by skimming.

Now my assumptions come from a bit more limited experience, this to me suggests an almost perfect balance. Thus a vital series of events has taken place and come full cycle.

So I agree, diatoms are a essential source of food for our captive critters. If levels get out of hand some intervention may be needed, but a biological solution would be better to maintain balance.

Never apologize for a long post, especially when it is jam packed with good information.

I'd like to hear others' thoughts/research on the matter and the opinions expressed.

graphixx
01-23-2006, 11:33 AM
good I am glad you enjoyed the post. yes its all about balance!!! and sometimes it is hard to find that perfect balance. since I started working with the diatoms and not against it I have notice a better health in my tanks. Just like David said. I hardly clean my glass now and I actually feed the tank less. Dave, I agree about using PO4 removers but not a s a cure but as a means to help maintain the balance.

perpetual98
01-23-2006, 11:41 AM
Greg is just trying to beat Angel in the 'word per post' statistic. :)

Just kidding bud!

graphixx
01-23-2006, 12:04 PM
LOL

valfran
01-23-2006, 01:39 PM
I have had my tank for 3 years and for 3 years I have been batling with hair algae and diantom. I still haven't found the balance yet. When I get it wright I go away to France, get somebody to feed the tank and when I come back the algae is back again.

Sweetpea
01-23-2006, 04:37 PM
Thanks a bunch for the post! I have been thinking I was doing something really wrong since I'm still fighting diatoms. I thought it was a "new" tank problem that went away a few weeks after cycling! I guess I need to stop fighting! ;)

Does this sound like things are balanced in my tank? Phosphates are at 0 and nitrates at 2.5. I feed every other day, and have a 12hr photoperiod. I have to clean diatoms off my glass about every third day...

jerryc
01-23-2006, 05:05 PM
Don't think you ever quit cleaning them of the glass lol

graphixx
01-24-2006, 01:24 PM
it is a battle. but once you get the balance down its really nice. it takes time. this is not a quick fix it will take a little time to get it right.

dlheuman
01-31-2006, 01:14 PM
Graphixx22:
Thanks for the insight. I am brand knew to this hobby and I like the challenge. I have been watching the green algae now for over 5 weeks and its not going anywhere fast. I have just installed an RO unit for water and ridding the tank of tab should help with the elimination of the green stuff. Can you shed some light on how long should I leave my lights on and what about night light illum. LED's?"
Thanks

dlheuman

graphixx
01-31-2006, 09:02 PM
you got PM