Getting a tank drilled?

[MizTanks]

I need to know several things about getting a tank drilled. Tank dimensions are 30" W x 18" D x 24" H. Stand dimensions are 31"W x 19"D x 29.5"H

Hole sizes, placement? Would I have to go with a center overflow? What all will I be needing? Return pump size? All the plumbing? Otherwise.......HELP!!! LOL

[cephalotus]

Hole sizes would depend on how much turnover you are aiming for, placement depends on overflow style. External Coast to coast with a Bean Animal is the way to go. Decide what overflow you want and how much turnover you want and we can go from there.

[MizTanks]

Your talking to a total newb here when it comes to this aspect of filtration. WTH is a External Coast to coast with a Bean Animal? What amount of turn over would be best for a 56g? Oh and it has to be QUIET! Like in a very small living room quiet :)

[cephalotus]

Since you are probably not having the tank built, external is almost out of the equation. Coast to coast is an overflow with the entire back of the tank being the weir. Google coast to coast or Calfo overflow. Bean Animal is similar to a durso with a third pipe, safe and quiet. I would run an Eheim 1260 or equivalent Sicce on it giving you in the neihborhood of 500gph with head.

[Tankster]

I've heard quite a few positive comments about glass-holes but haven't used them personally. They recommend the 700g kit for 40ish to 75ish gallon tanks.

Aquarium overflow box 700gph (http://www.glass-holes.com/700-gph-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-gh700kit.htm)

[jimsflies]

This calculator might help: Captive Reefs - Drain & Overflow Calculator (http://www.captivereefs.com/forum/drain-overflow-calculator.html)

Overflows and sumps are nosier than tanks without....but keeping your turnover rate lower can help minimize noise. Keep in mind the purpose of your drain/return flow isn't necessarily to create optimal flow for your livestock. The purposes of the drain and return pump is to pump water through the sump at a rate that will provide effective filtration and heater contact (and whatever other treatment you decide to have). Most reef tanks use power heads or closed loops to achieve the proper flow rate for coral in addition to the return flow.

A turn over of 10 times per hour is typical. So for a 56 gallon tank that would be 560 gallons per hour. Using the calculator you'd need a drain line of 1-inch (and an overflow weir length of 8-inches). If you place your drain in the center of the tank, you'd have an overflow box of 2-inches by 4-inches. (Adding the sides up would give you 2+4+2=8-inches (back of the overflow box is connected to the tank wall and doesn't have a weir component.) Or you could install an overflow in the corner, a 4x4 corner overflow would give you 4+4=8-inches.

With that said, it also a good idea to look at what pumps are available in your price range and verify there is a flow rate that matches up well with what you are designing. It never hurts to build in a little additional capacity into the drain and overflow This not only can help with avoiding floods, but also will run quieter.

When you design the plumbing you want to have a valve coming off the return line to bleed any excess flow back into the sump or refugium. This is the best way to adjust your flow rate since a valve on the drain or return could become blocked and contribute to a flood.

[cephalotus]

The Glass Holes 700gph really maxes out at 500gph. When an overflow is maxed out it is noisy. That style of overflow is noisy as it is. Having teeth cut into the overflow also interfers with surface skimming. I agree completely with what Jim said although I would shoot for a bigger weir.

[MizTanks]

So what are all the over flows I see that run the entire hight of the tank? You know, top to bottom? What do you mean *no teeth*? Don't all over flows have teeth?
Would the return hole be the same size as the drain hole?
That Enehim 1260 is a little expensive. Worth it though I'm sure :)

[jimsflies]

The overflow box gets mounted on the inside back of your tank, such that the drilled hole is inside of it.
They are mounted near the water surface and extend about 6-inches down from the top. (The positioning of the drilled hole should be determined with your overflow box in hand so you get it in the best spot.)

The "teeth" are the cut out areas that prevent debris from entering your drain. I would definitely recommend an overflow with a screen to minimize critters from getting into your drain. (A plugged drain would result in a flood in short order because your return pump would continue to pump from your sump and water would not be flowing into the drain like it should causing the display to overflow.) Also the design of the teeth in the weir can impact capacity...so going larger provides some safety factor for the notches.

Typically you could get by with a return hole that is smaller since that is flowing under pressure from the pump, rather than gravity. However in practice I think a lot of returns and drains end up being the same size because it is easier to just use the same bit for both.

This one's specs look pretty close:
AO-BLK700-OV Premium Aquatics - AO-BLK700-OV Aquarium Supplies (http://premiumaquatics.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=AO-BLK700-OV&Category_Code=)
http://premiumaquatics.com/prodimages/aquariumoverflows/AO-BLK700-OV_1.jpg


But I would get this one instead because it has a little additional capacity and would operate more quietly:
AO-BLK1200-OV Premium Aquatics - AO-BLK1200-OV Aquarium Supplies (http://premiumaquatics.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=AO-BLK1200-OV&Category_Code=)
http://premiumaquatics.com/prodimages/aquariumoverflows/AO-BLK1200-OV_1.jpg


This one is for a tank that is a lot larger:
AO-BLK2400-OV Premium Aquatics - AO-BLK2400-OV Aquarium Supplies (http://premiumaquatics.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=AO-BLK2400-OV&Category_Code=)
http://premiumaquatics.com/prodimages/aquariumoverflows/AO-BLK2400-OV_1.jpg

[MizTanks]

Here's my concern with those boxes. Will my water level in the DT be visible below the tanks frame? The teeth look like their about 2" tall or is that just the pic? Lol

Anyone have any close up pics of what an operating OFB looks like?

[MizTanks]

No I will NOT be drilling it myself. Hopefully I can find some professional who can :) Whether it can be drilled or not, I've no idea. What determines this?

[jimsflies]

No I will NOT be drilling it myself. Hopefully I can find some professional who can :) Whether it can be drilled or not, I've no idea. What determines this?

I have been figuring you would drill the tank on the back panel. However some folks do have drill the bottoms and have an overflow box that goes from bottom to the water surface. The biggest concern is that many tanks are manufactured with tempered glass on the bottom which cannot be drilled. You'll want to make sure that your tank isn't tempered.

[MizTanks]

Sounds good Jim, thanks. Just talked with James ( 2FarNorth) and he's going to drill it for me. I'll definitely be going with a back overflow.

[Flynnstone]

Jamie,
if the glass is thin, and you are concerned. simply silicone a grey or clear piece of glass onto the back where you plan to install the overflow box. just get it cut to fit inside.

[MizTanks]

Jamie,
if the glass is thin, and you are concerned. simply silicone a grey or clear piece of glass onto the back where you plan to install the overflow box. just get it cut to fit inside.

I'm sorry but I don't understand what you mean.

[Flynnstone]

if the glass is thin, silicone a piece of 1/4" glass onto the side where your new overflow box will be. the same size as the overflow box where it meets the tank wall. then drill the hole through both pieces.

[dlhirst]

This tutorial might help answer a few questions for you Jamie.

http://successfulreefkeeping.com/wp-content/How-To/drilling_in_aquariums.pdf