Hmmm... what do you think???

[mutts]

I am setting up a 75 gal tank. I know I want to grow lps and clams, maybe some easyer sps... but I really want to own and raise the first two.

I know I will need halide lights.

My question is would it be better to get an all ready assembled kit like:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12113&Ntt=aqualight%20pro%20hfqi%2Fcompact%20fluorescent %2Flunar%20light%20fixture&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&pc=1&N=0&Nty=1

Or should I get a retrofit kit.

I like the first one because everything is there, I mean down to the lunar lights, but it is expensive (trying to afford college, gas, and bills also). While I like the idea of the cheaper retrofits I am confused on how exactly that works. I umderstand that bascly paying for the ballast, so will I have to order another fixture to get some blue light (50/50 or actinic)?

Is there other options that I have over looked?

Would love it if someone could shed some light of this!

Thanks!

[lReef lKeeper]

you may have overlooked a USED fixture at a local fish club or ebay. retro kits are for custom canopies or custom pendants. you will need more light such as PC's for supplemental lighting because the MH's will only be on for a portion of the day. IMHO i think if you have the money then the fixture is the way to go, this is my opinion and not a rule though. maybe someone with Halides can be of more help, but i hope this gets you going in the right direction.

[Whoyah]

You may also want to consider t-5s over metal halides. Davejnz is running them over his 75 with awesome results. Just thought I would muddy the waters more. :)

[dakar]

I'm a bit biased, but metal halides are the only way to fly. Adding T5 actinics will really bring the tank to life.

If you take the PC route you may save a bit up front on the upfront cost over T5 s, PC puts out a great amount of light for the space, but sadly their life span is so short.. 6-8 months has been our max before they start 'graying out'.

It's a matter of economics...and choice. If you have a canopy or can get one cheap (add in building or having one built for cheap, 1/2 a sheet of plywood is really all it takes) then retro it and you'll be able to hang whatever you like in there and still come out way ahead of an expensive fixture. But if you prefer the plug-n-pray option of a fixture then you are at the mercy of the manufacturers. Not all fixtures are created equal, the more expensive doesn't always equate to a better product, the ballasts and reflectors are what make some units work great and others perform poorly.

[lReef lKeeper]

thinking about what Shad said ... he is absolutly right about the fact that David uses T5's. and with what you want to keep they should be just fine as long as the sps corals are placed in consideration of their specific lighting requirements. most sps will ok uder T5 lighting or VHO like mine but there are the one that absolutly MUST have the MH's.

I am with Dave on the metal halide is the only way to go. (if you can afford them, and want to do it right). if you can afford them, get them. because you will probably want to upgrade to them later (like i am doing soon). better to do it right the first time, then to spend more money later to get it right the second or third time.

[mutts]

I have PCs on my tank now, like them, but they arn't as good as I want.

I will be building a canopy so I guess I will go with the retrofits (hey I'm closer to getting lights now!!!) and add some T5 bulbs.

On the T5 would I just be adding blue light to get the color better, or will I need to add others as well? I didn't know anything about only having you halide lights on only part of the day.

Thanks for your help!

[lReef lKeeper]

a lot of people only add blue actinics, but i personaly like one blue and one white actinic. with only blue you get an all blue tank when the Halides are off. and i dont like that.

[dakar]

Everything sort of hinges on the color temp. of the halides you go with... 6500-10000K halides I'd suggest running the 460nm blue T5s.. 14000K the 420nm or a combination of them work well, anything above 14K and your tank may really need white. It really depends on the manufacturer and where they are made the color temps will vary greatly for the same labeling. For example the the Japaneese made 23000K bulbs are more similar to the 14K US.

The idea of running the halides for part of the photoperiod... *most* tend to bring the actinics up for an hour or so before the halides come on let them all run for the desired time and then the halides go off leaving the actinics on for another hour or two before the tank goes dark.

Halide photoperiods for most tend to be shorter than with power compact lighting, there is a set amount of time where the animals have absorbed as much light as possible in a given period of time, beyond that it's wasted electricity and/or food for nusiance algae. This debate can get rather deep quickly, and there are dozens of variations.

[mutts]

corals suck up light only for the first 8 hours give or take, right?

[aquaman3680]

That is a great light system it is the one that i run on my tank