How do builld a standpipe for your Internal Overflow

[seahorsedreams]

These things are supposed to make your tank QUIET! This set-up is for a 1" Bulkhead so the pipe 1-1/4" as well as most of the fitting unless otherwise indicated.

PVC pieces needed for the actual stand pipe..... ALL fittings are to be SLIP fittings! (not threaded... just in case someone didn't know what I meant by slip).
1-1/4" PVC End Cap
1-1/4" PVC Street-Ell
1-1/4" PVC Tee
1-1/4" PVC Pipe (the amount I got was the height of my tank + another foot to make connectors)
1-1/4" PVC Coupling
1-1/4 to 1" Reducer Bushing
1" PVC Pipe (a small piece... say half a foot)
1" Bulkhead (slip fitting)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/1.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Other materials Needed:
Teflon Tape
PVC Cement
1 AirlineValve
3/16 Rigid Airline Tubing (1 inch piece)
Flexible Airline Tubing (about 6")
Acetone (OPTIONAL: see below)

Optional PVC Fittings and other materials if using the 1" Strainer modification.
(9) 1" Intake Strainer
(10) 1-1/4 to 1" Reducer Bushing (same part as above... you'll just need two)
(11) 1" PVC End Cap
(12) Silicone Glue 1" PVC End Cap

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/2.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Equipment needed.
(1) Dremel or a Drill with 3/16 drill bit (you need to drill a 3/16 hole in the end cap. So, the drill is easier
but a dremel will do if you are careful. BUT: if you decide to go with the "Strainer Modification"
you will need the Dremel to grind down the inside of the End cap and the Reducer Bushing.
(2) Pipe Cutter: This can be done using....
... PVC Pipe Cutter (this is what I used)
... Tubing Cutter (be careful to get one that can handle the 1-1/4" tubing... and they can run kind of
expensive at that diameter.
... Plain ole Jig Saw (But OMG the mess!!! I tried this method one time and I never thought I
would be free of the PVC dust ever again! ... But it works.... it's just messy.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/3.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Okay... so now we have everything... we just need to build it.... the fun part!

First of all I'm sure some have noticed that the print on the side of the PVC pipe is just ugly. Those of you who haven't noticed it, don't worry about it and skip this part. For those of you that it bugs this is where the optional acetone comes in. And what's so good about Acetone? See the pic below.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/4.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Ahhhhhh! Nice and clean.....

Now let's get started on construction.
A pic says a thousand words in my opinion (Guess it doesn't surprise you that I would say that). Below I've laid out all the parts of the main part of the standpipe that simply have to be connected by one way or another to form the main body.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/5.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Before we start gluing things together we need to figure out how high this needs to be. Tap the pieces 1 through 7 together. It is best if you place teflon on the connectors to make sure you can dismantle them after. For me the height was very important because it would be fitting under the ledge of the tank. If yours is totally in the open, then it's not too important. And also note not to cut the main PVC pipe thinking this will be the end height when it is only temporarily placed together. When you actually pound the connectors together, it will make the whole standpipe shorter. But remember, you do not want to pound it too well before you are ready to make a permanent connection because you may never get it apart again.

We also need to prepare the end cap (otherwise known as #1 in the above photo).

This is where if you have a drill with a 3/16 drill bit the job is very fast and precise. It can definitely be done with a dremel, it just takes a little more care while at the risk of not having the same precision.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/6.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

The hole is drilled to accommodate a piece of rigid airline tubing. There are many different ways to accomplish the purpose of this part which we will talk about later.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/7.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Then to the end of the rigid tubing you place the airline tubing and then the air valve regulator. Make the tubing long enough so that you can reach it in the future to adjust the valve. Just don't make it any longer than necessary because the longer it is the more the air flow will be restricted and may necessitate a second hole. (The flexible tubing in the pic is dirty so you can see it better ;) )

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/8.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Okay, so you got the height figured out, the cap drilled, now let's glue or teflon the connections together. The whole thing is not just glued with PVC Cement... there are some parts you'll want to be removable so you just make those connections snug with teflon tape. The pic below should clearly illustrate which connections are glued and which are tefloned (is that a word ;) ). I used a rubber mallet to tap the cemented connections.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/9.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

All the connections made and sealed!! :D

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/10.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

With the bulkhead......

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/11.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Voila.... all done.... unless you are going for the optional strainer.

Well, the strainer I got was too big for the 1" fittings and too small for the 1-1/4" fittings. I'm not sure if other strainers out there of the same style would fit better or not and these length strainers can be a little difficult to come by. I only have one outlet for the sump flow and wanted the largest surface area just in case something flew over the back and got stuck on the strainer. But to fit the strainer in the PVC fittings I had to thin the inner walls of the fitting (this is where the Dremel came in). It was super easy and I just siliconed the strainer in place so that it would be only semi-permanent.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/12.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

Ahhhh all done.... totally... unless you have to drill a hole in the tank to use this but that's another thread.... ;)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/13.jpg

[seahorsedreams]

How it looks standing in the tank.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/Durso%20Thread/14.jpg

[graphixx]

Renee, That was one of the BEST Do it Yourself Posts I have ever read. I say this because of the explanation and the superb use of photos with the graphics listing what is what. I tell you what, if I needed to build a stand pipe that sure would of made the process a breeze. TOPNOTCH!!!

[seahorsedreams]

Aw thanks! Everything I do to the tanks my camera is right there with me. I am a standpipe making fool at the moment with all the new tanks I'm setting up for the "BIG MOVE"..... it starts this weekend... I'm afraid!!!

[lReef lKeeper]

AGREED !!! dang !!

[seahorsedreams]

Okay, I totally didn't realize there was a DIY forum..... I just saw it. I apoligize for placing this thread here.

[graphixx]

Ill tell you what!!! you do posts like this and I (being a mod) will personally move them to the correct forum.......OUTSTANDING

[dakar]

Great thread! Thanks for taking the time to write it up! My greatest intentions never seem to find time around here for such posts. Keep'm coming!!

Moved to the DIY forum :)

[graphixx]

DUH!!!! Thanks Dave, I guess I probably could of done that. but I guess thats why your paid the BIG BUCKS!!!! ;)

[marinefiend]

Can I say one thing

Supporting many different LFS stores around me and in my country I have the rarity of reading such a well planed, thought out and worded thread.

I think that even the stores I promote would be be proud to have you post on any forum.

Kudos to you dude, you just made my day.

[lReef lKeeper]

Can I say one thing

Kudos to you dude, you just made my day.

dude is actually, dudette !! lol
but i said before, GREAT THREAD !!

[segraves1]

that is what I did when I built my tank EXCEPT for a few small changes:

- I didn't put any screen on my intake (I want everything to just get DOWN to the sump rather than get cloged into the overflow)
- where you put the vent tube for air, I connected this vent tube to my pressure lines comming back into that tank. I did this because my returns from the sump are quite a ways below my water line and as such having these vents connected to my system gives me a siphon break and keeps from draining the tank.
- I just drilled little holes in the cap to alow for venting

overall I am really happy with this setup.

[seahorsedreams]

I'm glad the multiple little holes in the cap worked for you. But I just want to make sure people know it doesn't work for most... without having to add more holes or plug up holes over time.

The screen does indeed need a little cleaning maintaintance every few months. But it's something I do to avoid a fish mishap.

[lReef lKeeper]

to avoid a fish or crab or snail mishap. i would STRONGLY suggest the screen, Chris. a snail or crab can EASILY climb into the overflow and get lodged in the pipe. just ask Graphixx22 !! lol

[segraves1]

I have had a "fish misshap" already but with how my overflow box is, if they are actually small enough to get INTO my overflow (they would HAVE to go THROUGH the slits in the box, they can't jump over and into), they just go right through the pipes and down to the sump (one of my blue damsles did this trip..... ).


My holes are actually a little large (should probubly be one size smaller). The "advanage" that I see having them "too large" is that the water tends to drain a bit slower and thus the overall tank runs a little "fuller" (higher water line) which looks better. The system is pretty self regulating. If the water is draining too slow, the water will "back up" in the box, which will increase the "weight" on the system, and thus cause the water to flow faster. Worst case, the holes get pluged up over time and the water will drain faster (start to syphon).

[perpetual98]

I don't use teflon or pvc glue on any of my standpipes. There's no pressure on any of the joints and they're underwater anyway.

[seahorsedreams]

Hmmmmmm.... I need to think about that a bit. I never thought about it before. Except for the teflon on the pipe that enters the bulkhead, for a fact I know that leaks without it.... don't ask me how I know <_<

K, you would have to make sure there was no leak in the joints or make room for the water in the overflow in the sump. My overflow holds 5 gallons. When the pump is turned off the water just sits in the overflow... if there was a low leak it would drain out.

You'd have to make sure your overflow also has no leaks (mine presently does). When I turn off the pump the water level evens out in the overflow and the display section... if there was a leak in the standpipe it would keep going and going...

*pulls out a mop*

But I realize most peeps overflow works correctly and if there was room in the sump for the extra 5 gallons I guess there wouldn't be a need. I don't have 5 gallons space though.

[perpetual98]

I follow what you're saying. Makes sense to me. I've got space in my sump though, so maybe I've just gotten lucky. Or the fact that it would be such an incredibly slow leak that it's never been an issue.

Eric

[stevebla]

One of the best diy post ever!!!!