waterchange/cold

[davejnz]

Doing a waterchange yesterday.Forgot how cold its been and without checking temp of the fresh saltwater to be added,I changed out my 5 gallons.Glanced at the tank temp and it was 76.Normally it runs around 81 so its got me a little worried because acro's are real sensitive to temp spikes but not sure how they'll respond to the cooler water.Its back up to normal now,but wish me luck.

[dakar]

Wow, that big a temp differnce even over night? That water must have been really cold!

How and where are you measuring temp? I've found big variations through the glass temps at top and bottom of the tank and water temp in the sump. The variance may not be as big as you're seeing, though in a smaller tank it could be.

Hoping for the best for you.....

[davejnz]

I usually mix up 5 gal of saltwater at a time.My RO/DI is in the garage and i didn't realise how cold it was out there.I figure the bucket was about 70 when i added it to tank.Never measured temp at all.Thing look pretty good today,I figure in nature,there are cold upwelling currents that hit the reefs periodically so they probably tolerate it well.If it had been too warm,now then i probably would have had bleaching/RTN

[Reptoreef]

IMO, you should be ok... so long as you're not reaching down near the high to mid 60's.

[jerryc]

I woo-dent thank it will be a problem my heater went out and temp drops to 72 and
no problem just put in new heater and all was will

[dakar]

Cold enough in FL to need a heater in your make-up water huh? Thougt it was always a balmy 70+ down there.... Geez we're having to keep a 300w heater in the tank and a 250 in the sump to maintain 78 degrees in the big tank now....winter's just starting to roll in... should prove interesting to see how it goes.

BTW, Jerry be careful with those steel heaters from F&S, one of the two I ordered in a couple monthes ago went haywire...stray voltage all over the water surface.. zapped Angel pretty pretty good a couple times, then me a few times before I figgered out what was wrong think it's where the wires enter into the heater element that is not sealed as well as it should be...benched it for now, gotta take it apart to see yet.

[Reptoreef]

A shocking experience, huh??? Bet the hair-do's at the Cochran home prove to be a bit interesting.

[dakar]

That is based on the assumption that I have any hairs to 'do'. Angel on the other hand.... naw that'd earn me way too many lumps of I was to go into re-'do'ing her hair for her with 'lectric.

Isn't it amazing how not so bright we are? Think about it, she tells me she's getting small shocks from one of the light fixtures, so what do i do? Of course go out there and grab it... hmmm nothing there... so stick hand in the water..... ZAP! okay the volatage in is the water and not the lights.... but yet this FACT has to be verified several times before you start unplugging things to figure out what the problem is. :violent1:

[Reptoreef]

I have done it, too... Are you a believer in grounding your tank??? I just grounded mine a few months ago. Although I haven't noticed anymore strange little zings, I haven't noticed a big improvement, either.

[dakar]

okay lets drag another off the track while we wait on Dave's acros to decide if they caught cold or not...My opinion is the ground probes/rods is they are pretty subjective. Do they work, probably, would they create a definate short path for stray voltage to reach ground, most likely, better than the existing nuetral path (mine is tied to an 8' copperclad ground rod), another maybe. Are they really needed.....maybe...depends on the rest of your wiring.

I like the Ground Fault Interupt (GFI) breaker path instead, just not sure if I want a subpanel by the tank or just re-wire the existing circuits, (another 'one of these days' projects that needs to be done). But those I know work as designed, and would have popped open as soon as that heater started throwing stray current.

My whole reasoning is based on preferring to eliminate any stray current by finding it's source and making it go away, rather than letting it continue and just be tossed to ground without my knowledge.

[jerryc]

If you use the GFI get the 20 amp not 15 Thea will give you a lot less troubles

[dakar]

Not wanting this to come off harsh, but either 15A or 20A, they should function equally as well, but first know what gauge wire you are dealling with in the walls, a lot if not most residential 'code' calls for only 14-2 for outlets which in reality can carry a safe load of 15A max, dropping a 20A breaker on that and you could potentially create a lot of heat and all the smoke will fall out. Same thing for the outlets themselves, some of the cheapo's I've run across even at HD are rated for 15A, the better ones higher, even found some somewhat older styles that were rated for 10A (in the big sale bin....) <scary>

Guess the whole point is be careful, or find a not only qualified electrician, but one wiith a few brains before playing with the 'lectric.

Personally I've pulled all new wire through most of the house now... nothing but 12-2, a few more runs to go and I will have chased all of the gremlins out that were installed by the first contractor.

[jerryc]

If you have #14 Gage wire in your house you need a new electrical contractor it has not been used for outlets for years. If i used it in a house i
don't thank i wood sleep good at night and i like my sleep.
The only time i wood be concerned is in a older house then i Wood have a designated line run for the tank.

[dakar]

Our house is only 20 yrs old now, but the <insert your favorite expletative here> dude that did the wiring should be slowly electricuted to death, hence my complete rewire job.

[Reptoreef]

Ok ok we get it... don't have to say it again!!! LOL

[dakar]

hahahaha double post. But a double post no more :D

[Reptoreef]

Sing it again Sam...LOL

[Reptoreef]

Smart ***!!!