0% waste water :)

[Sea~Horse~Whisperer]

I've been looking for ways to cut down on the waste water from my ro/di unit. I took a chance and ordered another DI resin canister. I hooked up the waste water line to the new DI resin chamber and when I tested the water it was perfect. The new DI resin chamber was only $15.00 and a bag of resin refill was $18. It will refill the canister 3 times at least. I'm not sure how long or how many gallons of waste water it will filter before I need to recharge the resin. I did 60 gallons tonight and I will continue to keep track of exactly how many gallons I get out of the 2nd resin chamber. I will let everyone know the results when the water quality starts to decline. I figured for $15 it was worth a try.

Does anyone see a problem with this? Let me know since I'm pretty stupid when it comes to water chemistry and mechanical stuff.

Thanks,
Angie

[Reptoreef]

If the water has 0 TDS... you should be 100% good.

[dakar]

Sounds like you may be on to something there.. I need to really read up on the on whole RO/DI process and the real "why's" for the waste water. I always assumed the water being rejected as waste was for some particular reason. Sounds like you may be on to something. I'd be great to be able to use all the water processed for the tanks.

Knowing your water source is rather poor, did you run nitrate tests and stuff on the new DI'd waste water?

[Sea~Horse~Whisperer]

I do not have a TDS meter, but I did test for Nitrates, nitrite, ammonia, and PH . Besides Calcium, I tested for everything I have a test kit for. Nitrates are the only detectable bad thing in my water that I've found so far. (my water from the tap is 80ppm+)
The nitrates were 0. I will have to look into getting a TDS meter. It will be awhile since my Daughter is sick with Crohns again.


Dakar...do you have a TDS meter? I could always drive a water sample down to you for testing. Or maybe somebody else within driving distance has one?


I'm off to Marshfield hospital today with my daughter, so I can't do it today. Let me know.

Thanks, Angie

[dakar]

Yup we have one, and you are welcome to borrow/use it anytime you need.

[JustDavidP]

What's the results?? Is the secondary treatment of the waste worthwhile? Only a TDS meter will answer the question.....

I'm interested in the results. Right now, my waste gets pumped out to my Koi pond.

BTW...I hope all is well with your daughter.

David

[Sea~Horse~Whisperer]

The TDS readings are 2. Not perfect, but better than wasting all of that water. The lowest reading I ever got was 1 and that was straight from the ro/di unit. I get 2 after it sits in the holding container for awhile. I'm wondering if the plastic isn't leaching stuff into the water.

What kind of containers is everyone using to hold their water in?

TIA,

Angie

[Reptoreef]

It's true... some plastics will leach. Me, I use Rubbermaid.

[JustDavidP]

Angie,

Most of us are using either Rubbermaid Brute or similar. The real deal is to check (either online or on the product) to see if it is a "Food Grade Container". If not, there is no guarentee that it will not leach SOMETHING into the water.

Brutes are of that quality. There are others out there. Do a Google Search. I have a friend that ordered some from here: http://www.emprep.com/water_storage_barrels.html

Also, you do, from time to time, have to clean the barrels. They will develop some film and other life in it if you do not clean them from time to time. Nothing short of a lab environment can stop that from happening. All you need to do is put your hand or anything else in that barrel once and you've now compromised the sterile conditions of the water and container. I clean my RO/DI top off barrel every time I clean the pumps etc. which equates to monthly.

David

[dakar]

34G Rubbermaid trashcans and storage bins either Rubbermaid or that Sterilite (sp) brand.... no issues thus far. Looks like I may need to put up an extra DI unit to add to my setup and see how how it turns out for me, since my source isn't terrible like some of the horror stories I've read (source stays right around 786ppm TDS), 0 after the RO/DI.

But I still want to understand what causes certain water molecules or whatever to be rejected as waste water in the unit.... not as much fun unless I know all the 'why's' something work, which equates to me breaking something figgering it out.

Thanks fot the tip.

[Reefmaniac1]

I use the waste water to water my house plants.

[Whoyah]

I am in the market for a collection barrel for my new RO/DI unit. I just priced a RubberMaid Brute trash can, :shock: $43.00. That seems kind of outrageous for a trash can. Will a RubberMaid Roughneck($10) work? Any other suggestions?

[dakar]

That's what I'm using (the Roughnecks), haven't had any problems. I couldn't see paying the $40 for a trash can either, so I bought 3 of the $10 jobbers instead. Haven't seen any bad effects, like anything else they need a good cleaning every 3 months or so.

At any given time I generally have all three filled with either RO or SW. Won't ever be caught short of clean water again this way. But they've managed to stay filled right to the top for weeks without any visible weakening of the walls, though I'm sure in time they'll develop cracks since they are made of a thinner material, but a $10 bill will replace it easy enough.

Edited cause I can't spell for crud today...

[Whoyah]

Glad to hear it. $42 is lot for a trash can. Roughneck here I come.

[perpetual98]

$42 for just the can? That's steep. I picked up a Brute 32 gallon trash can and the set of castors for it for around $50. It's way nice having the castors. I suppose it wouldn't have been that hard to build a castor set and save some money.

[Limpit]

I work for a container company and one of our divisions makes plastic beverage containers. Given enough time compounds in the plastic, one is diethylhexyl adipate (DEHA) which is used to make plastic flexible, and other compounds can leach into the product. This process is called plasticizer migration. There are many other factors that can affect migration such as temp., U.V. light and others.
Bottom line is the less time that the product, in this case water, sits in the container the less migration you will have. The trash cans that are food grade I am guessing are made with plastics that have been FDA certified to only migrate amounts that are allowable for consumption.
I myself bought the more expensive food grade container because I leave my water sit in the container with a pump for a while some times.
Be aware also that some plastics can leach phosphates into your water. Something to think about.

[Whoyah]

Wow ! :shock: Thanks for the answer limpit. I guess that pretty much clears it up. At this point I will probably try the Roughneck (since I already bought it) and look to up grade later on, Maybe the Brutes will go on sale at some. Or I could find a food grade container some where.

[dakar]

Good info, thanks! Were the Brute containers labeled 'food safe'? Suppose I could look it up, but just being lazy I guess.