New to RO/DI Need Help!!!

[ReeferRob]

Okay so I finally ordered a RO/DI unit a 5 stage 100gpd unit. I got a brand new never used #2, 55 gallon barrel. A heater and a Seio pump for make up. I plan on picking up a gallon or two of white vinager to rinse the barrel just in case.
1)What I need to know is do I still need to use Prime?
or do I finally get to cut that from the monthly budget!
2)Do I need to re-mineralize my RO/DI water?
Ive heard and seen products out there for this and that it should be done?
3)Do I really need to or will my RC take care of it?
4)How long is RO/DI water good for if sealed tightly?
5)How long is make up (salt) water good for if kept warm and moving?
6)Anything else I am missing, haven't thought about, don't know, or any helpful advice or tips would be great!
Thanks

[speedstar]

Have no idea what what "prime" is so i'd say nope don;t need it.

I only add salt to RO/DI nothing else

How long good opinions will vary.

Warm and moving I think awhile as long as it is kept pure, dust settling on top and other containments can hinder it.

Buy a PPM meter to check quality of the RO/DI

[jimsflies]

I think prime is a de-chlorinating product. You shouldn't need it with a properly maintained RO/DI.

Are you on city water? If so, which city? Chloramines are used by a couple water supplies in Michigan can be more difficult to remove (DWSD does not use chloamines). Typically, the last step of the TO/DI is activated carbon and that is where much of the chlorine and chloramine removal will occur. The interesting thing about chloramines is that they are formed by the water supply by intentionally combing ammonia with chlorine. They have an advantage for the water system in that they last longer than free chlorine. But after a long period of time, they eventually can disassociate and leave behind ammonia....which quickly converts in an established tank to nitrate. Obviously this is not good since that is one of the reasons we do water changes in our tanks in the first place. But you shouldn't have a problem as long as you change the carbon as recommended.

As for storage, I have seen some posts regarding certain containers leaching phosphates into the water. Although, I'm not sold that this is at the levels of being a problem, it does make sense. RO/DI water is very aggressive. It has been stripped of it's minerals and is looking to reattain chemical equilibrium. So anything it comes in contact with could have some degree of reaction (it is still water so there isn't a violent reaction).



I think John means a TDS meter to verify the quality of your RO/DI?

[hardcz]

1)What I need to know is do I still need to use Prime? no
or do I finally get to cut that from the monthly budget!
2)Do I need to re-mineralize my RO/DI water? only if you are dosing, in which case you add your suppliments *calcium, alk, etc...*, otherwise use it as is for topping off and mixing with salt
Ive heard and seen products out there for this and that it should be done?
3)Do I really need to or will my RC take care of it? ??
4)How long is RO/DI water good for if sealed tightly? don't know, but I've had no issues filling a 55 gallon plastic food safe drum with RO water, and using it for topping off for a month or more before refilling it, some will have a pump in the container, some will not, to keep the water moving... it's up to you.
5)How long is make up (salt) water good for if kept warm and moving? as long as you want, though you will need to top it off with fresh RO if you let it store too long due to evaporation and rising SG
6)Anything else I am missing, haven't thought about, don't know, or any helpful advice or tips would be great! buy extra filters, membranes etc.. so you don't freak out when you need to get new ones, and a tds meter wouldn't hurt so you could keep tabs on how well your RO is doing.... testing it every month or three.

[stunreefer]

^^ All good posts ^^

One thing to mention regarding stages of an RO/DI system - don't pay to much attention to the number of stages, rather pay attention to the type and quality of the filters and membrane. A 75 gpd membrane has the highest rejection rate of any membrane (don't get sucked into higher gpd is better).

Generaly a "5 stage" system consists of:

1. Pre-filter
2. GAC (granular activated carbon)
3. Carbon block (go with the Matrix chlorine/chlorimine guzzler)
4. RO membrane
5. DI'

Stage 2 is utterly useless if you use a good crabon block, and I've since removed this stage in my system after finding that out. The Matrix block I use handles 20,000 gallons of water, where GAC goes bad well before that, and doesn't do anything the block can't handle. It will save you bucks, time and effort, and you'll still have top notch water.

[ReeferRob]

Thanks Stun, and everyone else.

Ive got it all hooked up, ran through a few gallons then started filling the 55 gallon barrel I have. I also filled the grow out tank, but not yet the fug. The darn pump and skimmer didn't come as promised? The TDS before is between 120 to 125 after, 0.

I am actually really nervous for some reason to use the RO/DI. Ive never used it before?

Brute 32sish are okay for make up and short term storage right??

[speedstar]

i can;t recall someone did a study on the brutes. I just buy a good 55g food grade barrel.





Thanks Stun, and everyone else.

Ive got it all hooked up, ran through a few gallons then started filling the 55 gallon barrel I have. I also filled the grow out tank, but not yet the fug. The darn pump and skimmer didn't come as promised? The TDS before is between 120 to 125 after, 0.

I am actually really nervous for some reason to use the RO/DI. Ive never used it before?

Brute 32sish are okay for make up and short term storage right??

[hardcz]

tds of 0 is what you want...and your water isn't that bad to begin with really.... it's safer than tap...

[BuckeyeFieldSupply]

[QUOTE=ReeferRob;47966]Thanks Stun, and everyone else.

Ive got it all hooked up, ran through a few gallons then started filling the 55 gallon barrel I have. I also filled the grow out tank, but not yet the fug. The darn pump and skimmer didn't come as promised? The TDS before is between 120 to 125 after, 0.
QUOTE]

You want to check and monitor tds in 3 locations:
Tap water: you said 120
RO water: ??
DI water: you said 0

Russ