DIY Mesh Top to Keep Fish From Jumping

[jimsflies]

Thought I would share the cover I have been using to keep fish from jumping out of my tank. I have been using this mesh for tops for about 3 years and couldn't be happier. I used a glass top for several months, but don't like the glass because it accumulates condesation and salt spray which blocks light. I also had heat issues with the glass top.

The screen doesn't hold heat at all. After the halide was on all day, it is barely warm to the touch right under the bulb.

For those of you that use eggcrate, this top is also better because it allows more light to pass than eggcrate. With a metal halide, I got dark corners when I tried eggcrate. The light difference is hardly noticable with the clear mesh screen!

I have tried both 1/2 inch mesh and 1/4 inch mesh, both work very well. If you have real small fish, then the 1/4 is the way to go and doesn't compromise light intensity.

Here's photos of the top on the tank.

http://www.jimsflies.com/reeftank/screen_top1.jpg

http://www.jimsflies.com/reeftank/screen_top2.jpg

[jimsflies]

For you DIY reefers, here is how I made the screen mesh top:

Materials Needed:
2 - 48" screen aluminum framing material (HD, Lowes, Menards, etc)
4 - screen frame corners
1 - roll of spline material
1 - spline roller
1 - roll of screening material (see Jimsflies description above)

photos courtesy of beakerbob...

Cut the aluminum framing to the interior size of the top of the tank lip (minus 1/16"), insert the corner and snap together:

http://www.jimsflies.com/reeftank/frame_1.jpg

http://www.jimsflies.com/reeftank/frame_2.jpg

Lay the screening on the framework and, using the splining tool, press the spline into the groove of the frame, starting at one corner and working around:
http://www.jimsflies.com/reeftank/frame_3.jpg

http://www.jimsflies.com/reeftank/frame_4.jpg

The splining will keep the screen taunt. Trim the excess screen material off the frame:

http://www.jimsflies.com/reeftank/frame_5.jpg

And you have completed the screened tank top!

http://www.jimsflies.com/reeftank/frame_6.jpg

[ReeferRob]

I made one as well with Jims help and direction. Love it over a glass top any day, and a small price to pay to protect your investment (fish) Heres a pic of mine with a sweet hand blown glass marble that looks like a ricordea for a handle.
I also collect hand blown glass in addition to credit card bills!
http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/ad286/bluedragon1_2/100_3749.jpg

[jimsflies]

Wow...not that's a cool addition! I want one of those.

[The Rugger]

I was going to ask you about that Jim. Did you find the mesh at a Norm Hardware store like Lowe's or Home Depot? I have an external over flow on my current tank so I would have to think about some sort of modification. Thanks for sharing.

[jimsflies]

No I got it from a store that was going out of business. But I had to buy a ton of it. I've been selling pieces of it to other reefers...most tanks are in the $20-40 range including shipping.

[Rabidgoose]

I also use the mesh on my tank and highly recommend it.

[jimsflies]

The pictures in the DIY thread are a 1/2 inch mesh. I also bought 1/4 inch mesh and now exclusively recommend that instead of the 1/2 inch. Unless all you have are big fish, then I would go with the 1/2 inch because it is a thicker sturdier material. The piece of mesh I am using is the 1/4-inch and it has been in service for several years now...so it is still sturdy, but not as much as the 1/2 would be.

[Rook]

Jim,

What did you cut the metal with, hacksaw?

Also, I need to go around the return plumbing. I was thinking of cutting a slit in the metal and the net to go around the plumbing and either (a) hope the tension holds it together, or (b) add a straight connector at the cut that I would have to open if I remove the top. I don't want a large opening on the back. I just know that jawfish will find that opening.

[jimsflies]

I use a chop saw, but a hack saw would work fine.

I don't think what you are proposing will work. The frame needs to be solid all the way around or it will likely fall apart.

Can you use a narrow piece of plexi across the back and notch out the place for your overflow/return/etc? Then just make the frame so that it goes up to the overflow and over laps the plexiglass a bit. You could dab silicone on the rim stock to secure the plexiglass since it shouldn't have to come off very often.

[The Rugger]

I would have to do the same thing with My external Overflow. I like the Idea Jim. I think it would work.

[Bloop]

This is how I finally built a screen top for my 73-gallon bow-front aquarium. The trickiest part being of course the curved front. I did mine in two halves because that is how it would set into the top of my tank that had a support across the center.

The best ideas are of course stolen so thank you to Jimsflies
And Bergy and Psykokid http://thelittleocean.com/smf118/index.php?topic=54.0

Project-Specific Materials Needed:
2 - 48" aluminum framing material (HD, Lowes, Plesants etc)
8 - screen frame corners (at a $1.25 for 4, I bought an extra pack, anticipating screw-ups)
1 - roll of spline material
1 - spline roller (I strongly advise the cheap plastic one. Half the cost and unlikely to cut your mesh by accident)
1 - roll of garden netting screening material (I used black)
1- wooden dowel, slightly smaller than the spline

Other tools needed

Heatgun (know anyone in the military? They use it to polish shoes.)
Dovetail or hacksaw etc.
Strong adhesive/epoxy. I simply used Crazy Glue
Hammer
Flat head screwdriver
Screws
Scrap ply wood (FREE, thanks Lowes)
Marker
Work gloves

Total cost in my area $24.10
$12.50 for framing, spline, and 4 corners in a combo pack
$2.50 for 8 more framing corners
$3.00 for spline roller
$6.00 for garden netting roll. I could probably make 10 more screens out of this but there wasn’t a smaller package)
$.10 wooden dowel

DIY Steps
1) Make a template of the interior perimeter of the top tank lid. In my case, I had the glass top available to trace directly onto plywood. Alternately, you could place you plywood onto the top of your tank and trace the shape of your tank from underneath.

http://www.captivereefs.com/jim/mesh/bowscreenbuild.jpg

2) Draw a perimeter to account for the aluminum framing.
- I drew mine exactly 1/16th in front the glass’s outline. If I had drawn form the outside of the whole tank, I would have had to account for the lip of the tank as well the frame needs to set into.
- Note: The INSIDE of a curve should be SMALLER than the outside. My inside line did NOT accommodate this and followed the outside curve exactly. It worked out anyway.

http://www.captivereefs.com/jim/mesh/bowscreenbuild1.jpg

3) Space screws about an inch apart along this inner line.

http://www.captivereefs.com/jim/mesh/bowscreenbuild2.jpg

4) Place a dowel in the spline groove of what is to be your curved side. This will prevent the groove from being crushed/buckled.

5) Place one side of your framing material at the top of the arched side, with the spline and groove side in. Place a screw on the outer edge of the framing to hold in place

6) Use the heat gun to heat and slowly bend the framing material to follow the inner line of screws. (I attempted this without the heat gun and the frame buckled in several places. Not pretty, but it would have done the job) Wear gloves, heat guns make metal hot and there is still a lot of pressure you need to apply.

7) Anchor the outer edge along your original line you transferred from your template as you go along bending it.

8 ) Once you get to the end, use a dovetail saw cut off the excess. The screws placed at the end can serve as a guide.

http://www.captivereefs.com/jim/mesh/bowscreenbuild3.jpg

9) Cut aluminum framing to the interior size of each STRAIGHT side of the top of the tank.

10) Add the next side you to the tightest curved end, which should be the outside corner of the tank. Use the heat gun at this “corner” to “finesse” it to the angle you need. You corner will look funky on the outside but you can trim to follow the curve, just ensure the sides are where they need to be and fit snugly into the corner piece.

11) Remove the Dowel and Use epoxy to bond the bowed portion to the straight portion.

12) Click on the next three sides.

13) The final, less sharp corner by the bowed portion is almost a right angle. Use the heat gun to make it perfect but it should be easy. Use epoxy to bond this corner.

http://www.captivereefs.com/jim/mesh/bowscreenbuild4.jpg

14) Remove any outside screws that are bracing down the frame. Pray it doesn’t pop open and test to see if it fits.

15) If you have another half to go, Use the same screw template. The grooved side is still the inside of the curve. BUT if you did it groove UP the first time, do it GOOVE UP the 2nd time. They need to be mirror images, not identical.

16) Lay the screening on the framework and, using the splining tool, press the spline into the groove of the frame, starting at one corner and working around. The splining will keep the screen taunt.

17) Trim the excess screen material off the frame:

http://www.captivereefs.com/jim/mesh/bowscreenbuild5.jpg

18) I cut exactly 1 line of the grid of the mesh top to pass an electrical cord though from the top of my tank. If you are going to do this, I suggest you live a little extra mesh in place to hold onto as you wiggle the power cord though. THEN trim that bit of excess.

http://www.captivereefs.com/jim/mesh/bowscreenbuild6.jpg

[BananaBoat]

i got this netting from jimflies and would suggest you all do 2 one of the best investments in my new system by far

[MizTanks]

That is way cool! Much better then the nasty glass top!

[Bloop]

Thank you Jim from cleaning up the post. You're right, it's the cutting & pasting that was messing me up.

I'd be happy to answer any questions.

Oh and I recommend to anyone to use 1/4 inch mesh:
I used 1/2 inch black mesh and recently watched a dimondback goby hit it twice, then jump through it. I saved him for the momment, but he died the next day from the stress of it all. I think even a small wrasse could get though if determined enough.

[ofirdan]

I know it's an old thread but facing the Same problem now. Already lost 10 fish!
I need something which you can take out easily and it won't drip once you do to work with the hands inside the tank.
Is the mesh screen plastic or some other material?

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

[jimsflies]

I know it's an old thread but facing the Same problem now. Already lost 10 fish!
I need something which you can take out easily and it won't drip once you do to work with the hands inside the tank.
Is the mesh screen plastic or some other material?



Yes the mesh is a plastic material.

[ofirdan]

Thanks,
I thought about doing this with fish net. As the plastic mesh we have here in the local art shop has a plastic mesh which is a bit thick and probably won't be held down by spline

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

[jimsflies]

Where are you located?

[ofirdan]

Israel
Tank picture https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/15fa18570da40c89b39cef3021a15430.jpg

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

[jimsflies]

I still have some. But not sure how difficult/expensive it would be to ship.