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View Full Version : New to Reefing The Basics



Mike
09-23-2009, 08:37 PM
Welcome to Captive Reefing!! and to an obsession that can last a lifetime. This forum is here for those who are new to reef keeping to ask questions and receive guidance from the membership here.

First and foremost you will need to select and aquarium that will meet the needs of the animals that you intend to keep. Pay close attention to this first but very fundamental step. Tanks come in many different shapes and sizes. I would recommend something either square or rectangular as a first tank. The odd shapes like hexagons and triangular tanks are interesting to look at but present challenges where lighting and flow are concerned. For the first time out stick with something that is pretty standard :)

There are some neat options now in the realm of nano reefing where the tanks filtration and lighting are all integrated into the tank itself. I am not sure I would recommend the smaller versions of this type of set up but I believe they are available in a 29 gallon version. Nano reefs present a different set of challenges that someone more versed in keeping a small system will be able to answer. It is typically easier to control variables like temperature for instance in a larger volume of water than it is in a smaller volume of water.

During the tank selection it is important to have an idea of what your goals are for the tank. Do you want to keep just fish with a few inverts like cleaner shrimp? What type of fish are you interested in? Will the aquarium provide enough territory and space for them to grow? Will the fish you're interested in be compatible with one another or the other animals that the tank may house (corals and inverts)? It is important to consider all of this while in the planning phase before you ever spend a dime on a tank spend a few dollars on a good reference. Reading is underrated and a lot can still be learned by picking up a book. This will ensure that you're making an informed decision rather than taking someone elses word as the gospel of reef keeping.

Once you select the tank then the fun really starts!!! Some basic equipment would be a protein skimmer, lighting, heater, circulation pumps, test kits, salt, and a sump (optional but in my book it is essential).

Protein skimmers are essential IMO because they are constantly removing organics from the water while at the same time increasing the amount of oxygen in the water. A good skimmer is worth its weight in gold. There are as many skimmers on the market today as there are car models on a lot. My advice on this topic is to ask other reefers for suggestions until you get a good handle on the hobby and which manufacturers have good reputations. I always go a little bigger than what I need too because the ratings on skimmers can be questionalbe based on the stocking levels of the test tanks vs "real world" tanks.

A protein skimmer works by mixing air and water in a venturi set up. As the air is drawn in it is "chopped" into fine bubbles by the skimmers pump. This fine air carries protein and other organic matter put of the water and into a collection cup to be disgarded. It is analogous to the sea foam prduced by waves breaking near the shore only we are doing it in a container :)

Lighting is as controversial a subject among reefers as what came first, the chicken or the egg. A common misconception amoung new reefers has to do with watts. There is no stead fast way to say that X watts per gallon is the magic bullet. Simply put the qulaity of the lighting you use is as important if not more important than the amount of watts you have over a tank. A 100 watt incandescent light bulb will not put out the same amount of light as a 54 watt T5 HO flourescent bulb will. That incandescent light also will not provide the spectrum of light needed for corals to flourish in your tank.

A better way to approach this come down to what you're keeping in this tank of yours and waht your preference is. I am biased towards Metal Halide lights because they are intense and are a point source light. This means that they give shimmer lines much like when sunlight refracts in a swimming pool. I love that look and the results I get with them.

Others like the T5 HO bulbs and not without good reason. They allow for more manipulation of the overall look of the tank as many bulbs of different color temps may be combined. They are also just as effective at keeping high light demanding animals as Metal Halides.

Another area in lighting that has really taken off is the area of reflectors. There are some great choices for both type of lights that will really add bang for the buck when it comes to delivering the light where you want it - in the tank and not on your walls and ceiling! Lighitng is an area where it is advisable to do a lot of research because it is one of the biggest investments after a good skimmer!!!

Mike
09-23-2009, 09:02 PM
Circulation pumps.

This are can be divided into a couple of parts. The return pump and circulation pumps for the tank itself.

A return pump is simply the pump we use to take water from the sump (if you have one) back to the tank. A good rule to follow is the pump should circulate the total tank volume 5 times and hour. Water flowing in a sump need not flow through at a rediculously fast rate. What many have found is moving water through the sump to quickly only increase micobubbles within the tank and the noise level of the tank from the falling water.

These pump may be submersible (they can go directly in to the sump) or they may need to plumbed via a bulk head of they are non-submersible pumps. More on plumbing later when we get to sumps. A few good brands of pumps that are submersible are Eheim and Red Dragon. The later is expensive but they are top notch. External pumps that are really good are Sequence IMO.

In tank circulation is perhaps even more important than the return pump. It is important because corals need water passing over them in order to breath. Gas exchange is dependent on good water motion and this also contributes to the amount of Oxygen in the tank because gas exchange is happening all the time between the waters surface and the air.

Powerheads are the most common form of circulation pump used within a tank. They are commonly available and do not require any additional pumbing to use. There are even wave simulators available to control them so that the water movement is more random with the tank. Tunze and Vortech are the Rolls Royce's of power heads. Tunze has a long history of making great products and standing behind them. Vortech is the new kid on the block but their products are innovative and bullet proof for the most part. Both are worth looking at.

Closed Loops are another way to accomplish in tank circulation. This method is a little more labor intensive because it requires plumbing and planning out where the bulk head opening will be. It also requires an external pump. The advantage of this method is it is a lower profile way to move water in a tank without having power heads on the tank walls. For those who do not want a lot of equipment in the tank this is the most common option.

Here is an example on the back of my tank. The pump is a sequence barracuda (4500 gph). It is fed through a 1.5 inch intake and returns to the tank via four 1.0 inch bulkheads. There is a large strainer in the tank to prevent fish and other animals from getting sucked into the pump.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/z122.jpg

Here is the back of the tank prior to plumbing. The four bulkhead (see white rings) have seals that prevent water from leaking out of the tank. These were drilled by a professional who works with plastic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/tunze006.jpg

This is inside the tank. You can see the directional nozzles inside the bulkheads. This gives even more flexibilty and options to directing the water returning to the tank. These were purchased through customaquatics.com

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/tunze008.jpg

If you decide on a closed loop it is a good idea to ask a lot of questions and maybe enlist the help of your fellow reefers if this is your first time.

Mike
09-27-2009, 08:41 PM
Keeping a reef tank is as much science as it is an art. The art part comes into play when you see a display that is not only clean in appearance but dynamic as well. Later on aquascaping will be discussed as well as different ways to secure corals and create a living reef display. For now I want to discuss some more essentials that every reef keeper needs.

When you start out you will need to get a decent set of test kits. These should include PH, Alkalintiy, Calcium, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. You will also need a method to measure the salinity of your water. I prefer a refractometer to the typical plastic swing arm hydrometer. The refractometer is more accurate and can be recalibrated to ensure continued accuracy. Later on you will want to purchase a magnesium test kit (if you're keeping corals) and a phosphate kit as well. Because I am a fanatic about this hobby I have a Hanna instruments photometer to measure phosphate. These are pricey pieces of equipment but if you get serious into the hobby they are worth the investment.

Their are several different test kits available. I use the Salifert and Elos line of test kits. I have found that these are more reliable than other test kits I have tried. Most fish stores now stock the salifert line. Elos is available from several on-line vendors.

Why test?

There is a saying among us reef keepers that goes like this, "nothing good every happens quickly in a reef tank".

What this means is that if it is happening fast it is not a good thing. In order to keep a stable tank you need to know what is going on with the water chemistry. Certain parameter fall out of normal faster than others do. Alkalinity for instance (a measure of the carbonate ions in the water) can fall by several points over the course of 24 hours. Eventaully if it falls to far you will have negative effects on the animals you are keeping. Alkalintiy is also a measure of the buffeing capability with in the aquarium or the ability of the microcosm to maintain a stable ph. Caronate is important not only for coral growth but for its ability to combine with free Hydrogen ions to stabalize the PH in the aquarium. The general acceptable range is from 7-11 degrees of Karbonate hardness (DKH).

igot2gats
09-29-2009, 09:35 PM
Mike, you have once again hit the nail on the head with another great sticky.

You go into some good detail without being confusing.

Good work.

Sir Patrick
11-06-2009, 10:18 PM
Great info!