View Full Version : Lighting/ LED LED's
The guys down at the LFS are recomending going with all led lighting. I was considering this rather than a chiller for the halides. Has anyone tried this or know if it will work. They have them set up in the store but just over mushrooms and stuff like that.
Steven Pro
11-01-2009, 10:25 AM
Unless the tank is very small, I haven't seen a LED fixture provide sufficient light with good reliability. They are coming along, but as a primary light source, I don't think they are there just yet.
evilc66
01-06-2010, 08:22 PM
It's very possible, both off the shelf and DIY. There are of reefs successfully running LEDs as the primary source of light, myself included.
For commercial options, the AI fixtures have the most power, and the highest pricetag. There are other alternatives starting to become available that work very well also, from companies like Eco-Lamp (KR-91 and KR-92), Ecoxotic (Panorama), and Maxspect.
The DIY revolution, fueled greatly by the Orbitec patent dispute that tanked PFO, is also in full swing, and it's easier than ever to build your own setup that is very powerful and very flexible.
Sadly, the achiles heel of all of this is cost. The up front costs are very high, and that turns a lot of people off. The long term savings in energy costs, bulb replacements, chillers (both the equipment and running them), and the fact that it contains no harmful chemicals like fluorescents and metal halides is a big plus.
ryeguy28
01-06-2010, 08:24 PM
Yeah evil !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
GLAD YOU JOINED ;)
Fishgeek88
01-06-2010, 08:26 PM
Is heat the primary concern? I would look into t5s. Have yet to see an LED set up that has impressed me.
evilc66
01-06-2010, 08:26 PM
Yeah, I broke down and did it. You weren't the only one who said to come over here. Looks like a lot of familiar faces from NR and MR.
evilc66
01-06-2010, 08:34 PM
Is heat the primary concern? I would look into t5s. Have yet to see an LED set up that has impressed me.
Heat, or lack thereof is one of the biggest boons to LEDs. Being able to dynamically adjust your color tamp and brightness on the fly is pretty cool too. Our understanding of LED technology is increasing. It's far better than what we knew 5 years ago when the first Solaris came out and everyone complained about them bleaching corals because the light was "not bright enough". Silly poeple.
Seeing as you are 20-30 minutes from me, you could always stop by some time and see what I have. Maybe a 40 Breeder lit by 60W of LEDs keeping sps would turn your head? ;)
ReeferRob
01-06-2010, 09:18 PM
Great to see you made it over Evil! LED's have been on the brain for DAYS.
My first concern is the LEDS ability to penetrate deeper tanks like my own?
I like that with the DIY kits you can change the optics, which is why I am concerned with purchasing the AquaIlluminations LED light.
The Maxspect is a good looking piece, but it can't be sold in the US correct?
Plus if there is any warranty issue, its all the way back to China. Good luck calling on the phone to tell them whats wrong!
chazde3
01-07-2010, 12:56 AM
Heat, or lack thereof is one of the biggest boons to LEDs. Being able to dynamically adjust your color tamp and brightness on the fly is pretty cool too. Our understanding of LED technology is increasing. It's far better than what we knew 5 years ago when the first Solaris came out and everyone complained about them bleaching corals because the light was "not bright enough". Silly poeple.
Seeing as you are 20-30 minutes from me, you could always stop by some time and see what I have. Maybe a 40 Breeder lit by 60W of LEDs keeping sps would turn your head? ;)
Crap, I didn't realize you were only running 60w of leds over your 40b. I'm running 156w over my 50b. So much better than running 2 halides or 6 t5 tubes over it.
Fishgeek88
01-07-2010, 11:22 AM
Heat, or lack thereof is one of the biggest boons to LEDs. Being able to dynamically adjust your color tamp and brightness on the fly is pretty cool too. Our understanding of LED technology is increasing. It's far better than what we knew 5 years ago when the first Solaris came out and everyone complained about them bleaching corals because the light was "not bright enough". Silly poeple.
Seeing as you are 20-30 minutes from me, you could always stop by some time and see what I have. Maybe a 40 Breeder lit by 60W of LEDs keeping sps would turn your head? ;)
have any pics of the set up?
evilc66
01-07-2010, 07:37 PM
Great to see you made it over Evil! LED's have been on the brain for DAYS.
My first concern is the LEDS ability to penetrate deeper tanks like my own?
I like that with the DIY kits you can change the optics, which is why I am concerned with purchasing the AquaIlluminations LED light.
The Maxspect is a good looking piece, but it can't be sold in the US correct?
Plus if there is any warranty issue, its all the way back to China. Good luck calling on the phone to tell them whats wrong!
With the right lens configuration, you can use LEDs on any tank. 40 degree optics can be used on tanks up to about 30" (bottom will be for softies and lps only at that point), but you can go tighter, like down to 25 degrees for a heavy sps tank. The spacing has to be reduced, so that adds more LEDs and cost.
The AI unit can have the lenses swapped, but I don't think many owners are willing to crack open a very expensive setup. With the new series, there are fewer lens choices, but the ones that are available are tighter than stock, if that's the direction you want to go.
The Maxspect units cannot be sold retail in the US, but there is nothing stopping you from importing from out of the country. I'm not keen on the versions that have the 30W LEDs (way too much PAR, and poor longevity on the LED). The 110W looks great for most mixed reef tanks up to about 20" deep, and the price is great.
Crap, I didn't realize you were only running 60w of leds over your 40b. I'm running 156w over my 50b. So much better than running 2 halides or 6 t5 tubes over it.
Different approach though. Your's is more of a T5/PC appearance with light everywhere. Mine is more in line with the Japanese style of lighting and is more spotlighty. Works pretty well though, but coral placement has to be thought out a little more.
have any pics of the set up?
I do. These are a little old, but they show how they are mounted. I'll get some updated ones up soon.
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/evilc66/DSC_03020001.jpg
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/evilc66/DSC_03120001.jpg
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/evilc66/DSC_03080002.jpg
Since those pictures were taken, the lamps got raised another 8". They will be going up another 3" when I end up mounting the track to the ceiling. Currently, I get about 130 PAR on the sand with the PAR38's 30" from the sandbed. These are the first gen 15W lights, and not the newer 21W units. It's a mix of 12K and 20K lamps, alternating.
I have some new livestock in the tank and will be taking pictures of them this weekend, so I'll show you guys the newer setup then.
ReeferRob
01-07-2010, 07:42 PM
Awesome update, thank you.
evilc66
01-07-2010, 07:48 PM
I forgot to mention that the spotlighting in the fts has been greatly reduced since the lamps have moved up. It's also hard to really capture exactly what the LEDs look like over the tank. Anyne who has LEDs will tell you the same, no matter the camera used (I have a Nikon D40 DSLR and it's still a pain).
chazde3
01-09-2010, 04:07 PM
I forgot to mention that the spotlighting in the fts has been greatly reduced since the lamps have moved up. It's also hard to really capture exactly what the LEDs look like over the tank. Anyne who has LEDs will tell you the same, no matter the camera used (I have a Nikon D40 DSLR and it's still a pain).
No kidding, I shoot with a Sony a300 and I have to do some pretty heavy post editing to get anywhere near what they look like in real life.
Argent
01-09-2010, 04:20 PM
What about these panels found on eBay?
http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/1Som_Bidsome/2501B_W.jpg
Specifications:
Body material: Thermoplastic
Circuitry board material: Diecast Chrome
225 Super Bright LEDs 112 Blue, 113 White
Color: WHITE 6000-7000K Blue = 450 nM
Working Voltage: 110V (Plug in To North America Standard Outlet)
Power: 13.8 Watts
Dimensions: 12
evilc66
01-09-2010, 04:26 PM
Not worth the trouble. They are very low power, and would only be even partially useful for very shallow tanks. Even then it would only be considered low to medium-low light.
What you want to be looking for is something with at least 1W LEDs. Even then the usefulness will be limited by what you want to keep, and the size of the tank. Ideally you need to be looking for 3W LEDs. Some manufacturers try to compensate for lack of individual LED power with sheer quantity. Doesn't work as well as having higher output LEDs.
Argent
01-09-2010, 04:28 PM
Thanks Evil - just trying to figure out an inexpensive way to light my new 24G Aquapod instead of the 70w MH I have
evilc66
01-09-2010, 04:52 PM
Sadly, there isn't a cheap way to properly execute LEDs. Cheapest alternative is going to be a 150W MH DIY retro.
labman
01-09-2010, 05:28 PM
What about these panels found on eBay?
http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/images/uploads/2501wh.jpg
Specifications:
Body material: Thermoplastic
Circuitry board material: Diecast Chrome
225 Super Bright White
Color: WHITE 6000-7000K
Power: 13.8 Watts
Dimensions: 12
I if course I am planing to use it for the refugium anybody in the are that wants to check them out is free too.
ReeferRob
01-09-2010, 06:10 PM
Thanks Evil - just trying to figure out an inexpensive way to light my new 24G Aquapod instead of the 70w MH I have
Argent, are you looking to add some LED supplemental lighting, or you want LEDs to be the only light source?
Argent
01-10-2010, 10:53 AM
I'd rather replace the MH with LEDs
evilc66
01-10-2010, 07:09 PM
It can be done, but not cheaply unfortunately. To DIY it yourself properly, it's going to set you back about $250-$300. One thing to think about here is that you recoup your invenstment in about 3-4 years between not having bulb replacement costs, and reduced energy consumption.
Heat, or lack thereof is one of the biggest boons to LEDs. Being able to dynamically adjust your color tamp and brightness on the fly is pretty cool too. Our understanding of LED technology is increasing. It's far better than what we knew 5 years ago when the first Solaris came out and everyone complained about them bleaching corals because the light was "not bright enough". Silly poeple.
Seeing as you are 20-30 minutes from me, you could always stop by some time and see what I have. Maybe a 40 Breeder lit by 60W of LEDs keeping sps would turn your head? ;)
Sure would turn my head!!!
I just got back from a local reefers house (he is on RC) to measure his PAR from 18 Cree LEDS. He has 9 cool white and 9 royal blue on the array. I could not believe it when I saw what the measurements were.
The lights are 5 feet (yes 5 feet) from the bottom of the tank. There are shimmer lines just like the halides (optics turns the LED's in point source) and the par on the bottom of the tank is 180-200!!!! That is what I get from my 250's and they are 14 inches from the water not over 4 feet like this tank (4 feet to the top). I still cannot believe it!!!
CalmSeasQuest
02-03-2010, 09:10 PM
There should be no doubt about the ability of LEDS to light up a tank. I installed 2 of the 70 watt AI units about a month ago on a 24X20X20 Cadlights Pro tank. I initially set the White output to 65%, believing that was about the same as the MHs I replaced (based on appearance only as I do not have a PAR meter.)
I proceeded to bleach everything in the top 1/3rd of the tank, including SPS. Even my RTBA went into hiding. I now have the power reduced to 35% and everything is "getting happy."
The PAR output of the 3 Watt Crees is very deceiving - It's a LOT more than similar "looking" MH. On RC, a user named Santoki had a DIY LED build using Crees that is very similar to the AI's in most every way - Including the 40 degree optics. He did a great job documenting the build, including PAR testing and demonstrating the results on his tank (SPS.) He has them mounted on his ceiling about 6' above his tank.
He measured PAR of 1028 in 12" of air and 984 at his substrate in 15" of water - No wonder I almost cooked everything. (In my defense, I didn't find the PAR values until after I had installed my lights.)
IMO, LEDS will completely replace MH as the cost of acquisition comes down - There's simply no reason not to.
Better quality light - Almost all of it is in the spectrum used for photosynthesis (PAR.)
Infinitely Variable color and intensity
Low power use (PAR wise, 70 Watts of LED can equal about 250 watts of 20K MH)
Almost no heat which allows for passive cooling or virtually silent fans.
No bulbs to change or color shifts (Bulbs last 12+ years - and then output reduces by about 30%)
I'll never go back - Here's a FTS of my AI powered tank for reference. I do have a bit of spotlighting that will disappear as soon as my hanging kit arrives.
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy141/tconwell/DSC_0917.jpg
I will definately be using the dimming function of my profilux on the LED arrays I am going to buildto try out. I am still astonished at teh output for the amount of wattage. This is finally a light that gives more out than you put in in terms of energy.
evilc66
02-04-2010, 10:18 AM
I just got back from a local reefers house (he is on RC) to measure his PAR from 18 Cree LEDS. He has 9 cool white and 9 royal blue on the array. I could not believe it when I saw what the measurements were.
The lights are 5 feet (yes 5 feet) from the bottom of the tank. There are shimmer lines just like the halides (optics turns the LED's in point source) and the par on the bottom of the tank is 180-200!!!! That is what I get from my 250's and they are 14 inches from the water not over 4 feet like this tank (4 feet to the top). I still cannot believe it!!!
Sounds like he is using some fairly tight optics. Good results though. My PAR38s are mounted 32" above the sand with 40 degree optics and I hit about 120-130 PAR on the sand.
There should be no doubt about the ability of LEDS to light up a tank. I installed 2 of the 70 watt AI units about a month ago on a 24X20X20 Cadlights Pro tank. I initially set the White output to 65%, believing that was about the same as the MHs I replaced (based on appearance only as I do not have a PAR meter.)
I proceeded to bleach everything in the top 1/3rd of the tank, including SPS. Even my RTBA went into hiding. I now have the power reduced to 35% and everything is "getting happy."
The PAR output of the 3 Watt Crees is very deceiving - It's a LOT more than similar "looking" MH. On RC, a user named Santoki had a DIY LED build using Crees that is very similar to the AI's in most every way - Including the 40 degree optics. He did a great job documenting the build, including PAR testing and demonstrating the results on his tank (SPS.) He has them mounted on his ceiling about 6' above his tank.
He measured PAR of 1028 in 12" of air and 984 at his substrate in 15" of water - No wonder I almost cooked everything. (In my defense, I didn't find the PAR values until after I had installed my lights.)
IMO, LEDS will completely replace MH as the cost of acquisition comes down - There's simply no reason not to.
Better quality light - Almost all of it is in the spectrum used for photosynthesis (PAR.)
Infinitely Variable color and intensity
Low power use (PAR wise, 70 Watts of LED can equal about 250 watts of 20K MH)
Almost no heat which allows for passive cooling or virtually silent fans.
No bulbs to change or color shifts (Bulbs last 12+ years - and then output reduces by about 30%)
I'll never go back - Here's a FTS of my AI powered tank for reference. I do have a bit of spotlighting that will disappear as soon as my hanging kit arrives.
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy141/tconwell/DSC_0917.jpg
This is what I have been trying to tell people for years. So many people initially made the mistake of trying to match LED setups lumen for lumen with MH with disasterous results. It's all down to the relatively selective spectral output of LEDs, and the crazy output of royal blue LEDs, which are the closest LEDs to the peak photosynthetic response of most corals. PAR is in no short supply with LEDs.
He is using 8 degree optics on his.
Argent
02-04-2010, 12:35 PM
Hrm I'm thinking for the price I might go with the Maxspect setup (LED-G1-400-110W)
Evil,
How do you think corals would respond to UV LED's in the 350nm-400nm range?
evilc66
02-04-2010, 06:37 PM
He is using 8 degree optics on his.
Hmm. Didn't think it would be that tight. Maybe a 25 degree.
Evil,
How do you think corals would respond to UV LED's in the 350nm-400nm range?
Personally, I think they will resond very well, but it's finding the appropriate LED for a reasonable price that is tough. They are horribly expensive ($80+ each).
This is something that I have theorized now for a year or so, and we started adding inexpensive "UV" LEDs (they were 410nm, which is just purple, not UV), but saw little advantage. We still don't know what the wavelength and power requirements are yet to say go for it just yet.
The cheapest ones I have seen (UV) that are high powered (5 watt) are between 27.00 and 40.00 each. I would wonder if placing a few per array with maybe 60 degree optics would be enough to see a benefit.
evilc66
02-04-2010, 07:39 PM
Got a link? Most of the LEDs that I have seen that has that power and that price are usually violet LEDs (400-415nm). True UV-A (325-400nm) are very expensive, and the lower the wavelength, the more expensive it gets.
I noticed that we have to buy 63 of them :( to get that price)
I am looking for somewhere to get a few though
evilc66
02-04-2010, 07:42 PM
Where abouts?
Here is one place but we would have to buy 63 minimum
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?N=254227+4294758820&No=125&FS=True
Here is another place I found
http://www.profinaus.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=section&id=1&Itemid=15
If we can get enough people interested I would like to get a few to exoeriment with.
evilc66
02-04-2010, 08:03 PM
That LEDengine 365nm 5W seems interesting. Might take a search around to see if I can find one of those.
LMK if you do find one :)
evilc66
02-04-2010, 08:23 PM
The 10W model is a monster. That one might be pushing the limits a bit at over 2000mW output. A 150W Phoenix is only about 35mw/m^2
ryeguy28
02-04-2010, 08:24 PM
thats alot of light
ryeguy28
02-04-2010, 08:27 PM
evil - what are those 30w leds on the maxspect fixtures ?
and also - they are no longer selling the first gen 110w maxspect and are only taking preorders for the 2nd gen which is a extra 100$ :(
So how would you hook that up???
Here is another place that sells the 350 and 360 nm UV
http://www.thefoxgroupinc.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=66
do you think this one would work????
https://dcomponents.com/?content=details&idpart=568
OR
https://dcomponents.com/?content=details&idpart=573
evilc66
02-04-2010, 09:01 PM
The 30W LEDs they use on those fixtures are made buy a few Chinese manufacturers, and aren't very efficient. Lot's of light though, but that's not always good if you can't control it or limit the intensity easily. Personally, the 30W LEDs are only of use PAR wise on tanks over 24" tall, and by then the other LEDs are almost useless without any optics.
evilc66
02-04-2010, 09:06 PM
So how would you hook that up???
Hook what up?
Here is another place that sells the 350 and 360 nm UV
http://www.thefoxgroupinc.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=66
do you think this one would work????
https://dcomponents.com/?content=details&idpart=568
OR
https://dcomponents.com/?content=details&idpart=573
All of those have the output measured in microwatts. I'm estimating that we should be shooting for at least 200 milliwatts (200,000 microwatts)
How about this one
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/LedEngin/LZ1-10UA05/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtEjy7lsqBi5Un%2f%252bkHi8siyXbsaNKrP vRs%3d
evilc66
02-05-2010, 01:44 PM
405nm isn't going to be much use as a UV source.
SO the lower end is what is needed.
Evil do you have the web address of AI
CalmSeasQuest
02-05-2010, 05:48 PM
Evil do you have the web address of AI
http://www.aquaillumination.com/
CalmSeasQuest
02-05-2010, 07:05 PM
AquaIllumination just published PAR results comparing one 70 watt AI unit to a Phoenix 14K DE 250 watt MH. The sensor was placed 19" below each light. If I'm reading it right (I'm sure Evil will comment) measuring directly below each light,
The MH, drawing 280 watts produced PAR of 350-375.
The AI, using just 74 watts produced almost DOUBLE that of the MH at 700-735.
These numbers are comparable with another study Cree LED PAR study conducted on a DIY build documented on RC.
The tests are available at http://www.aquaillumination.com/
Game, Set, Match.
evilc66
02-05-2010, 07:19 PM
Seems about right. At least they posted real world numbers unlike last time where all measurements were taken 2" under the lamp. They are using good reflectors and ballasts this time too.
I'm getting 590 PAR at 14" on my 21W PAR38 lamps. The extra PAR on the AI unit is made up by the XP series LEDs (greater output per watt than the XR-Es I'm using), and more overlap from more LEDs. I don't care how you do it though, those are some impressive PAR numbers.
evilc66
02-05-2010, 08:19 PM
From the research I have seen so far, UV in the 350-390nm range is what we will need. Filling in the lower end of the visible light spectrum can't hurt, but I'm not sure at this time as to how much benefit we will see from it. Either way, filling in the lower end of the spectrum is going to be expensive right now.
evilc66
02-05-2010, 08:20 PM
I have no idea why that got posted in this thread.
evilc66
02-05-2010, 08:21 PM
Is there no way to edit posts?
chazde3
02-06-2010, 06:23 PM
I would really like to find out the par readings of my setup sometime. I finally turned my whites down and am getting a 15-16k look during the daytime. Evil, are you coming to the ann arbor swap? My setup will be there and I'd love for you to check it out.
I will bring my par meter with me so you can measure it.
evilc66
02-07-2010, 03:06 PM
When is the Ann Arbor meet anyway?
I just got back from a local reefers house (he is on RC) to measure his PAR from 18 Cree LEDS. He has 9 cool white and 9 royal blue on the array. I could not believe it when I saw what the measurements were.
The lights are 5 feet (yes 5 feet) from the bottom of the tank. There are shimmer lines just like the halides (optics turns the LED's in point source) and the par on the bottom of the tank is 180-200!!!! That is what I get from my 250's and they are 14 inches from the water not over 4 feet like this tank (4 feet to the top). I still cannot believe it!!!
Mike, what's the dimensions on his tank? Are you saying that it's got 18 crees and that's it for the tank?
Yes. It is like a 20 rimless but the fixture is hanging 60 inches from the bottom of the tank.
Jonas
02-26-2010, 09:34 PM
Hi All,
Sorry for my english (native Portugues OK),
I would like to mount LED ilumination om my 80gal reef tank but I dont know what W(wats) in LEDs to substitue my 2x150W MH + 2x30W Actinic tubes T8.
And More:
1 - many projects uses CREE RX-E Q5 but i think is more $ on e-bay
2 - I see LEDs whit 30 50 100W its posible whithout lens to substitute Matrix Cree + Lens to have good coverage. My question is because to mount matrix with many 3W Cree have more expensive.
Thanks a lot,
I Like The LED step by step whrite Evilc66 but is more than one year past and now there are news leds. Any test?
Thanks again,
JK
evilc66
02-27-2010, 11:14 AM
1. They are more expensive, but you get what you pay for. The cheaper LEDs are typically lower output, and the long term life of the LED is sometimes in question from the cheaper Chinese brands.
2. High wattage LEDs like this are typically not recommended. They are not as efficient or as reliable as a high quality 3W LED like a Cree XR-E, or a Luxeon Rebel. We use a lot of LEDs for coverage, not for intensity.
There have been some advancements in technology in LEDs, but the focus really is in the 3W class of LEDs. The new Cree XP-Gs are a pretty strong leap forward in efficiency and output.
If you give us the dimensions of your tank, we can come up with a plan to replace your current setup.
CalmSeasQuest
02-27-2010, 12:43 PM
Evil,
What do you think of these? http://www.premiumaquatics.com/ecoxotic/StunnerLEDStrip_Specs.pdf
I haven't been able to determine what LEDS or optics are used. Although I don't think these put out "true" UV at 403nm, they appear to be the closest thing other DIY with expensive UV LEDS.
I'm considering adding a couple of these to my AI's as a test to see what (if any) affect the additional shorter wavelength light will have. I've got my lights raised about 12" above the tank, so I'm not even sure they put out enough intensity to avoid being washed out by the IE Crees.
What do you think - Worth trying?
Jonas
02-27-2010, 10:17 PM
Hi Evilc66,
Thanks for answer.
My tank is 100cm long x50cm larg x60cmTall in Brazil is comom to use alimeda on 10cm off substract and 60cm(tall display) -[5 border+10 substract] = +-45cm off water colun on my tank.
Actual light setup 2x150W MH(10.000K) 2x30W actinic T8
Thanks again,
Jonas
evilc66
02-28-2010, 01:58 PM
Evil,
What do you think of these? http://www.premiumaquatics.com/ecoxotic/StunnerLEDStrip_Specs.pdf
I haven't been able to determine what LEDS or optics are used. Although I don't think these put out "true" UV at 403nm, they appear to be the closest thing other DIY with expensive UV LEDS.
I'm considering adding a couple of these to my AI's as a test to see what (if any) affect the additional shorter wavelength light will have. I've got my lights raised about 12" above the tank, so I'm not even sure they put out enough intensity to avoid being washed out by the IE Crees.
What do you think - Worth trying?
I think you won't see that much effect over the AI units. They aren't very intense, and I'm not sure just yet as to what advantage there is to short wavelength visible light. I'm doing some tests on UV-A, but thats 320-390nm.
Hi Evilc66,
Thanks for answer.
My tank is 100cm long x50cm larg x60cmTall in Brazil is comom to use alimeda on 10cm off substract and 60cm(tall display) -[5 border+10 substract] = +-45cm off water colun on my tank.
Actual light setup 2x150W MH(10.000K) 2x30W actinic T8
Thanks again,
Jonas
Ok, 40x20x24 for us working with the imperial system. For that tank, I would set up an array of 56 LEDs in a 14x4 array. With the height at 24", 60 degree optics will be needed to get good light levels. This is all assuming that you are going to use higher quality 3W LEDs like Cree, Luxeon, or SSC. This should create a little higher output than what you have currently, but if it's too much, dimmable drivers will help control the intensity.
Jonas
03-01-2010, 05:53 AM
Hi Evilc66,
Thanks for answer again,
The Num of 56led is 28 WC and 28 RB? or is good to put UV ?
What a good seler to bayer Thrust Led ?
I have one person on FL to bayer and send to me to Brazil.
Thanks again,
Jonas
evilc66
03-01-2010, 09:50 AM
Half cool white and half royal blue is fine. Don't worry about UV for the time being.
Stick with reputable LED retailers for your purchace. Prices may not be cheaper than ebay, but you will get customer support that you normally don't find with ebay sellers. Plus, you will know exactly what you are getting from these retailers. They will also sell other supporting products like drivers, optics, and mounting equipment.
CUtter Electronics seems to have decent prices on the Cree LEd's
Nano-tuners has the meanwell drivers
evilc66
03-01-2010, 01:33 PM
While not horrible, Cutters prices aren't that great. The big advantage with that site is being able to pick the bin you want. XR-E WG bin Q5s mounted are more than most US retailers.
I was looking at the XPGWHT-L1-1A0-R5-0-01. My understanding is those are closer to a 10K color temp correct? With the Q5 XRE what si the color temp closer to? 6500K or 10K?
evilc66
03-01-2010, 01:48 PM
WG bins are 6500K. Personally, I don't like the higher color temp whites. The are stark and wash out the colors. It's all about how they end up adjusting the phosphors to raise the color temp. They typically drop the red and green content of the spectral output. If you like the windex blue of an XM 20K, then they work well, but 6500K whites, which are far more common and cheaper, produce a much more well rounded and deeper color.
I used the XR-E as a comparison, as that is still what is most commonly used for DIYs. It's mainly because of the lack of wide optics for the XP series (40 degree is currently the widest angle). For my recommendation to Jonas, he would have to use the XR-Es for that reason.
Evil,
SInce I am going to be using the 40 degree optics over an acropora tank do you think there is much advantage to the XPG over the XRE?
evilc66
03-01-2010, 02:17 PM
XP-Gs produce more light for the same current (and at a lower voltage). For an acro tank, more light is better. If you do find that it's too much, you can always dial it back a bit and save a little energy.
Now, where XP-Gs could really shine is when you crank the current up to the max at 1500mA. The light output from that is rediculous, and you could step down one optic angle size to get the same overall light, but with a wider spread. Only problem is there isn't a blue LED that can keep up with it.
I was thinking the R4 bin. It is cheaper than the R5 and is only 9 lumen less. Going to stick with the XR-E RB hopefully the D3 color bin.
dcook
03-02-2010, 08:06 AM
Anyone understand all this french... LOL
evilc66
03-02-2010, 12:21 PM
I was thinking the R4 bin. It is cheaper than the R5 and is only 9 lumen less. Going to stick with the XR-E RB hopefully the D3 color bin.
Why not get the XP-E royal? You will use the same optics then for both colors.
Have not been able to find them. Any suggestions ?
evilc66
03-02-2010, 12:48 PM
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut902
I know I can get the remaining drivers on nanotuners. I could go every other array with the XRE / XPG to sort of even it out in terms of brightness. What do you think?
evilc66
03-03-2010, 09:32 AM
I'm a fan of consistancy. I always try to use the same type of LED for the entire array. That's just my way, and there are many ways to get the desired result.
Where are the 40 degree optics listed on the cutter site or any site???
evilc66
03-03-2010, 03:26 PM
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Optics+for+XP-C%2FE%2FG
I think I am going to have to call them :) I saw that page but I cannot figure out how to determine which ones are 40 degree's.
evilc66
03-04-2010, 12:13 PM
If it doesn't tell you in the drop down box for each lens, then it will tell you in the datasheet that is linked right below the description (there are a few that don't have them). The Carclo 20mm series (second from the top on the first page) has a 45 degree lens.
rxpharm
05-31-2010, 01:47 PM
Been running a 90 gallon with Acan Lighting's LED fixture and love them. I think they look great and I am keeping all kinds of LPS, SPS, and clams in this tank. Doing so well that I want to trash my MHs on my other 90. Acan Lighting has a new programmable unit that is really sweet--seen them at a couple of frag swaps recently.
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