Help with lighting dilemma

[Dan Schmidt]

I am soon to be setting up a 125 R/R . I am having a cabinet maker build a stand and canopy. However as I read more about lighting I am starting to think that the Coralife 4-65w 48" pwr compact may be to small to grow any reef !

I need to stay away from MH due to the fact that you can not put the into a canopy because of the heat plus as far as chillers, which I do not want to get into that yet. Then there is VHO but what I do not like about those are the the fact that you have to mount them so they end up covering up so much of the opening of the top. I am starting to wonder if my only option is to purchase a pwr compact MH and install fan's on the ends of the canopy ???

Does anybody have any ideas maybe some way I can still us my 48" pwr compact and maybe us something else along with it ??

Any help would be greatly appreciated :-?

[jerryc]

Putting MH in your canopy will work for you if you have the fans in it you can
also put a extra fan on your sump if needed.

[BUGZME]

You can install 2 4" fans and you won't have any problem with heat! MH is the only way to go!

[dakar]

We went the same route with a 4x65 over our 55g, it was just 'ok', best use for it was adding the halides and using the PC's for suplement lighting. Even with 900w of halide lighting (actually MV) running all day the tank water temp only raises 2 degrees, the canopoy is wide open in the back with no fans right now. Though I'm sure as the house temp increases (IF spring/summer ever reaches us) a couple of small fans may be warrented (i've got a couple of 120mm 12v computer case fans in reserve). A big factor is the distance between the bulbs and the water.

[Dan Schmidt]

So what would you guys do 2-175w MH with a 4" fan on each end and then us the 48" 260w 4-65 lunar aqua light power compact ? then mount the MH no closer than 4" from the glass top/cover ?

I forgot to mention and maybe it does not even matter I will have a glass top/cover on the tank,which measures 6' L x 18" D x 23" T.

[jerryc]

If it was me id get red of the Glass cover and put the MH lamps at about 6'' if
possible {jmo]
The heat from the lamps can possible cause the Glass to brake.

[dakar]

For some ideas you can get a better idea of the new lighting system I just finished setting up over our 180 on this thread,
http://www.captivereefing.com/viewtopic.php?t=728
for perspective the tank is 72"x24"x24" the PC's are about 13" off the water and the saki's sit about 9".

the 4x65w PC's make for a LOT of supplement lighting.

[Reptoreef]

IMO, lose the glass unless you are going to go with no other shield and are using HQI MH... otherwise, a decent reflector, your bulbs with a 6-8" from bulb to water surface, and proper ventilation(fans, etc) are the preferred way.

Repto

[Dan Schmidt]

Thanks a lot guys I think I know what to do. Just to verify one more time if my canopy is about 11" to 12 " tall I am not going to have any problem with the over heating if I use MH's so long as I install fans. If I don't us the glass can I use return air aluminum egg crate material to cover the water surface ? I know I so full of ??'s

I REALLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR HELP !!! :D

[jerryc]

Yes i read that some use egg crate i haven tried it.
If you later need extra cooling you can get a little clip on fan and put over your sump
made about 2 degrees deference for me

[Dan Schmidt]

Super fan "no pun" intended . Thanks again.

[BUGZME]

Why would you want to cover the water surface? I can't think of any reason at all. Most fish don't jump Out.

[davejnz]

I couldn't agree more,lose the glass covers.Not only do they hinder gas exchange at the water surface they also block UV and some PAR.I have experimented with glass and acrylic as a UV shield for a MH mogul based bulb and SPS corals have lost color and turned brown.It is my belief that UV is beneficial to some corals and is linked to the development of some color pigments.Eggcrate is a good choice to place over the tank when acclimating to the new MH lights.I also like to use 2-3 sheets of window screen placed over the eggcrate during the initial phases of acclimation removing 1 piece a week.I prefer to mount 10" above the water surface and use bat-wing style parabolic reflectors to help spread the light.You can get a 36" spread(24" is the standard) with a single MH.It wont have quite the intensity on the edges but still enough to grow low-med light corals with.If your tank is deeper than 18-20",use 250's.I find 175's a bit dim but still effective for mixed reefs.You'll have no problems with heat as long as you use a pair of 4" fans.Another good tip is to add some passive ventilation on the top/sides of the canopy by cutting holes out and using vents(simliar to AC vents).

BTW,is your current PC setup a complete fixture or a retro?You can always scrap it out to incorporate it into your canopy but if you paid alot of cash you might be better off selling it and buying a flourescent retro that will better suit your 72" long tank(I'd use a 2x72" VHO actinic)

[tileman]

I would lose the glass top also, bad for oxygen exchange and cuts down on light penetration. If this helps here are a couple of pictures of my canopy, the fans are in the top corners.