Starting tommorow

[Mike]

Got what I need to start pendent one. I ordered a couple 400nm 5 watt UV's to use without optics in a blue string. It is just to see what linf of response I can get.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Very exciting! Please take lots of pictures and keep us posted.

[ReeferRob]

Lots of pics, lots of detailed info!

[tazzy695]

we need lots of detailed pics of all the steps of the build with full detailed write up man sounds like an awesome plan

[Mike]

I have the LED's pre-tinned now. That took a while to do over 200 of them. I am waiting on some artic silver thermal adhesive. Bought a drill press, new bit set and a full tap set yesterday. I will take pics and write this up the best I can ;)

[tazzy695]

cool

you know best buy carry arctic silver in the computer area as it is used for cpu cooling fans all the time

[evilc66]

Why AS epoxy and drilling and tapping? If you are drilling and tapping, you only need thermal paste, not epoxy.

Which UV LEDs did you end up buying?

[Mike]

I ended up getting the 5 watt 400nm LEDS from mouser. I am going to go with the epoxy and thermal paste on this build. I bought hte tap set just because I always seem to need one ;). I am going to be learning on this build and then might change it up a bit on pendent 2

[Mike]

Here is the first pendent. There are 84 LEDS and the heat sink is 24-8.5. I am going to do the next ones spaced a little further apart. Have 40 degree optics and may add some 60 degree on the end rows. I am hoing for some peace adn quiet this weekend so I can wire this one and test it.

822

823

[ReeferRob]

Looks like a lot of fun!

[Mike]

I am going to wire this hopefully over the next few days just need to get my drill press out.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Wow - Impressive build Mike, Can't wait to see them Rocking over your tank.

I wish I had your DIY skills. I needed to replace a MH/T5 setup over a small frag tank ( 24X20X8 ) as it was so shallow, light wasn't reaching the corners. I thought about a T5 setup, but I love the AI LEDS so much, I wanted to stick with LEDS (without spending AI dollars for a frag tank) Plus the AI optics would not have worked on an 8" depth tank.

I ended up ordering a MaxSpect 160W G2. It's a bit of an overkill, but the price was right and I'm looking forward to comparing it to the AI's.

[Mike]

I am learning as I go and relying on advice from a few fellows over on RC and our own Evil66. I am doing this slow and in stages. I may add a few more UV leds as well if I like the results from this first pendent.

[Mike]

Here are the first two. The one with more LEDs will also be using 60 degree optics with the 40 degrees.

961

962

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Those look great. How long until they're lighting up the reef?

[Mike]

I have a 30" heat sink coming and then I need one more. I am spreading cost out. My hope is I have this all done in a month.

[Mike]

Here is a start

967

968

[Mike]

here are two more shots

969

970

[Mike]

here are some pics of the full array

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/DSCN0858.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/DSCN0857.jpg

on kitchen ceiling

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/DSCN0859.jpg

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Let there be light! Looks great Mike... nice work.

[evilc66]

Coming along nicely Mike.

[Mike]

Coming along nicely Mike.

I know I went a little over on thefirst heat sink with 84 LEDs
so I plan on using dimmable driver and 60 degree optics mixed
with the 40s.

[Sir Patrick]

Looks great!

[Mike]

Here is the start of the array with 84 on it (will be on dimmers).

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/?action=view&current=DSCN0860.jpg

[Mike]

start of the 84 array

[iyachtuxivm]

So whats the overall size of this going to be and what will it be lighting?
Man wish I was able to do something like this.

[kozyreef]

Its looking awesome my friend! are u going to put one of these fixtures over your chalice tank also?

[Mike]

I moved them to the main tank but yep I am going to make one to go ocer that one too (the one you saw still in the plastic wrap with the external overflow).

[kozyreef]

o yeah that's right
btw i think that little pink acro you gave me is awesome its struggling though. everything else is perfectly fine.

[Mike]

keep it low for a while and it will likely be fine.

Here is the start of the 36" array.

976

977

[ReeferRob]

So jealous, how many times you burn you finger tips? LOL

[Mike]

I am using Hemostats amd needle nose pliers to avoid buring my finger :)

[Mike]

I have gotten myself a few times and screamed out a four letter word but know one was home thankfully ;)

[Mike]

Here is a pic of the 36" partially on. The dim bulb that is on the black disk is a 400nm UVA.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/DSCN0864.jpg

[Sir Patrick]

Looks like you are flying along fast on this one!

[Mike]

I have three more strings on this one to do. I am going to wait on doing the last one until I get a couple over the tank to see what I want to do as far as leaning more blue or white on it. The RB put out almost as much par as the whites do.

[Sir Patrick]

Cant wait to see one (or more) hung over your tank!

[Sir Patrick]

You know you want to go hang on right now.....dontcha?

[Mike]

I am going to order some strut channeks and light trolly's so I can get the posistions just right and also be able to move them when I need do maintenance

[Hopkins]

Are you going to use a plexi shield to guard against saltcreep and water splash? I haven't seen a DIY LED setup yet, this is very interesting!

[Mike]

I am going to use an acrylic shield. My guess is these will sit 18-24" off the water. They pack a punch. They are comparable with optics to my 400watt 20K's

[Mike]

Mega array all fired up


981

982

983

[Mike]

SHould have these over the tank by next weekend. I have to mount the rail (finding the joist will be fun) and I am waiting on the DB 9 pin chords still.

[Mike]

POwer supply chords figured out. Waiting on DB9 chords to connect between ballast and unit remotely. I am going to use an aluminum case to house drivers with pre-wired DB9 outputs to drivers. Should work just like a ballst enclusoure with disconnect ports.

1044

1045

[Gymnothorax]

Nice build!! Looking forward to seeing the end product on the tank.

[Hopkins]

Mike, check out Phoenix brand DB9 connectors. They have terminal blocks with screws so you don't have to solder. I use them a lot with industrial fixtures here at work. Makes the job so easy, I hate soldering individual pins.

[Mike]

Wish I had known about these before I did all the soldering. I will use them for the second row of banks (areas that I may need to add a little here and there).

[Mike]

Hi all,

I ended up needing to make the DB9 cable connectors myself because the 28 gauge wire will not handle the load (standard cable). I went with 18/7 wire so each connection will run three ballast. The wire does not get hot like the 28 gauge did either.

[Mike]

This was a pain but it is up. Should have the 400's off this week.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/DSCN0893.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/DSCN0894.jpg

[Sir Patrick]

Sweet! Cant wait to see the tank lit up- no hurry though. You are making great progress with the time you have had!

[Mike]

I will be patching all teh holes from teh halides and the holes from trying to locate a floor joist. My stud finder sucks

[Mike]

I hung the 2 foot pendent a minute ago and wowwwyyyy. Par of 300+ in some spots on the bottom! It actually does out do my 400 on the other side! needless to say It will be on less I think or I may change some optics to wider degrees to decrease the par if the corals start to act weird. That dense one will have to be on dimmers and I see some 80 degree optics maybe for that one.

Still tweaking the hanging hardware so please excuse that part of the pic ;). Now I will be off to Kroger to get some groceries and chocolate cookies for Livi :).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/DSCN0895.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/skippyreef/DSCN0896.jpg

[CalmSeasQuest]

Congrats!

300 PAR on the bottom means nuclear bright on top - Your fish are going to need serious sun block ;)

[Mike]

I am going to be swaping some optics like I said :) because you're right.

The piece with 96 LEDs on it is going perpendicular to the tank and I think all 60-80 degree optics on that one! I only have three of the 4 strings running on the one I hung!

[Sir Patrick]

That is bright!!! Nice!

[Hopkins]

Oh me next! I want LED's by Mike.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Looking good. Scratch that looking great!


The piece with 96 LEDs on it is going perpendicular to the tank...

I'm not sure I understand. Are you going to have this light on the the side of tank as opposed to above it?

Tom

[Hopkins]

I'm not sure I understand. Are you going to have this light on the the side of tank as opposed to above it?


Suspended from the ceiling, above the tank.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

So, above the tank and running perpendicular as in from front to back ... gotcha.

Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking with that many LEDs you would get blinded by a light shining through the back glass!

Tom

[Mike]

Adam it is on a rail system so the pendents are all moveable to get the best placement.

[Mike]

So, above the tank and running perpendicular as in from front to back ... gotcha.

Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking with that many LEDs you would get blinded by a light shining through the back glass!

Tom

That was the first one I did and before I knew it I had 96 on the thing!!!

[Mike]

That was the first one I did and before I knew it I had 96 on the thing!!!
I have the second one almost ready to go. I ordered a steele project box to start housing the ballast and setting in the disconnects. The ballast get hot so I am thinking of installing a 120 mm fan for active cooling . Going to shrink wrap all the connections and get her up this weekend.

[Sir Patrick]

More pics!

[Mike]

I will post come more in a few days ;)

[evilc66]

Looking good Mike. Look forward to seeing the finished result.

[Mike]

Working on a few connections and I have the boxes to hold the ballast. I am waiting on a 110/220 converter to power an Osram signal amplifier to increase the 10V signal from my profilux to arrive. I have some 235cfm fans on the heatsinks and they are cool to the touch ;)

[Mike]

Just an update. I am going to be hooking up the super fixture (dense build) this weekend. So far I am not running an entire Led fixture all at one time. The PAR values far exceed what I was able to acheive with hte 400 watt ballast and Radiums or even 10K's. Tank temp is a steady 77.6-78.2 without a chiller running. The 235cfm fans keep the heat sinks at room temp so I am sure that is going to extend the life of the bulbs.

My par numbers are anywhere from 150 to 550 depending on depth. 550 is mid tank from the fixture with the blue,green, Q5 Mix. That bulb also has a 440 UVA 5watt (120 degree angle) LED from mouser in it. The riplle lines are more prominent as well than with the halides I think due to multiple point sources rather than 4sources from old set up (4 bulb).

I am very happy so far with this and even though it has taken 6 months to get things done it was worth the time.

[Paulo]

Hey,
Do you think you can recap part list and cost on both of the arrays? Give a comparison betwen the two arrays. And list of things that you would do differently after the fact. I have been following this tread for a while and wondered final cost and ect. It looks great.
Paulo

[Mike]

Paulo,

I actually built four of these. 2 are 24" one is 30" and one is 36".

I can break down the list pretty easily.

Heatsinks: www.heatsinkusa.com
LED's and Lenses: www.nanotuners.com
UVA LED's : www.mouser.com
Drivers: www.powergate.com and www.nanotuners.com
misc parts like soldering iron, 22AWG, solder, db9 connectors - radio shack
Multi-meter: Harbour Freight

The Hoffman boxes for the drivers I purchased on ebay

I will count up the emmitters and lenses, ect and give you a total. Ball park for the 84Emmitter fixture is about 800.00 but like I said that one is crazy and know one needs to do anything like that. Cost changes depending on space between LED's, lenses, ect. There are people now building these with the 3up Cree LED's. I think that is interesting and I might build one for a frag tank in the near future.

[180wall]

Nice job Mike. I just can not believe the price of LED's. The DIY looks to have saved you some cash and you have a custom fixture.

[Mike]

It is custom and that is the good thing. Plus I learned some skills that I can use now around the house. I did have to buy a drill press but then I have always wanted one. Now I have an excuse to set up some tools in the garage because I have quite a few now. I really do want to try the three up XP-g but I might wait until the new series comes out this fall. Those are supposed to be rediculous as far as output goes.

On a small tank like a 50 breeder or one of those rimless beauties Led's are not that cost prohibitive. It is when you get into a large tank that it starts to become almost a mission ;) because of cost. I do anticipate a great deal of savings though from taking off 1300 watts of halide and a 4 amp chiller that ran almost all the time.

[Mike]

got the "torch array running. only running 4 of 7 strings right now. Par Mid tank is 400-500 and 200-300 on the bottom on that side of the tank. I am going to tweak some of the pendent placements now.

[shovelhead91701]

Updates?????????

[Mike]

Actually I am going to a rimless tank so the arrays will be redone. I will likely then have some arrays for sale. Working out the design now

[evilc66]

Sounds cool.

[Mike]

Evil,

I was thinking 96 total singles and 2 7 ups (4 XP-g cw and 3 xpg rb). the tank foot print will be 54*26*20. Pointers please.

[Mike]

Also Evil I used the artic silver epoxy. I want to remove the Leds from the large rigs but do not want to damage the LEDS. I also want to remove the epoxy from the backs. Any experience or suggestions

[evilc66]

Best solution I can offer is to chisel them off with a flat blade screwdriver put to the side of the star. Be careful obviously. As for removing it off the back of the star, chip away excess on the edges, and sand the base down flat. I'm not suggesting chemicals as the LED is far to close, and could be damaged by some of them.

[Mike]

That is what I will do. Does the number of LED's I am thinking of using iver the 18" deep tank sound about right to you for SPS, clams, and chalices.

[evilc66]

Very possible. It's a little hard to really tell without seeing a layout diagram though.

[Mike]

Very True. I am actually going to end up with a 60*24*18. What I wanted would cost more so I will take the extra 12" in length. Going to work witha friend who does metal fab on a hood design this weekend. Getting the stand in a mahogany stain to go with the aluminum or stainless covered lighting fixture.