Setting up a Sump OH MY!

[MizTanks]

Most of you know I'm very new to reefing and am soon to be upgrading from my 8g to my 26 bow front. Someday I may even go up to my 75g!

Anyways I'm going to be adding a sump to the 26 and I need as much in-put as I can get. First is how to add an overflow to the tank. Should it be the total height of the tank? Vents top and bottom? I'm going to look into getting it drilled but I'm not sure anyone around here does it, so lets go with not drilled.

Now about the sump. I'm not exactly sure of total capacity but I do believe it's for tanks from 10-75g's. I'm gonna need to know what size pump, filter media, tubing size, lighting.

Whatever y'all can tell me would be much appreciated.

[XSiVE]

Most of you know I'm very new to reefing and am soon to be upgrading from my 8g to my 26 bow front. Someday I may even go up to my 75g!

Anyways I'm going to be adding a sump to the 26 and I need as much in-put as I can get. First is how to add an overflow to the tank. Should it be the total height of the tank? Vents top and bottom? I'm going to look into getting it drilled but I'm not sure anyone around here does it, so lets go with not drilled.

Now about the sump. I'm not exactly sure of total capacity but I do believe it's for tanks from 10-75g's. I'm gonna need to know what size pump, filter media, tubing size, lighting.

Whatever y'all can tell me would be much appreciated.

If you dont want to drill, you will need to get, or make an overflow box. This box will typically have a siphon tube (or section) that runs over the lip of the tank into a second box that hangs on the back, which then has a standpipe connecting to the tubing that will run into your sump. It's relatively easy to install / set up but its less reliable than drilling the tank.

Personally, I'd drill. If you want to do a very cheap, very easy, very reliable overflow, you can get a section of 4" PVC pipe, cut it to the internal height of the tank, from the bottom glass to the rim, then slice it in half lengthwise so you have a half-circle that fits flush to the glass. Use a Dremel to cut slots(teeth) on the top (down only as far as you want your water level to go). Use a glass drill like something from http://glass-holes.com/ with a matching bulkhead, drill wherever on the back of the tank you want your overflow to be.. It's really quite easy as long as you're careful.. put the bulkhead on, attach a PVC 90 (or a street L) and attach a standpipe (that should be slightly lower than the teeth you cut in the pipe).. once the L and standpipe are in, silicone the half-circle PVC in place and you've got a nice overflow.

[John]

I'll be in McMillan next month. If you wouldn't mind the 1.5 hour drive to get your tank drilled.

[ReeferRob]

Very kind of you to offer John.!!!
Jaime Im getting very excited for you and your upgrade!!!

[MizTanks]

I'll be in McMillan next month. If you wouldn't mind the 1.5 hour drive to get your tank drilled.

Sweeeet! Give me bout a weeks advance notice and I'll be there! Thank you so much John!

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Overflow
I've been using this CPR overflow (http://www.marinedepot.com/CPR_CS_Overflow_Boxes_External_Overflow_Boxes_for_ Aquariums-CPR-CR1511-FIOFEB-vi.html) and like it WAY better than the U-tube style overflows. The CPR is more reliable than the tubes but requires an Aqualifter pump and sticks out off the back of the tank 3-4 inches. Therefore, when/if I set up a new tank it will be drilled and I will probably go the Glass-holes kit (note to self... always remember to include the "Gl" when typing that company name).

Sump
Sump size: As big as a footprint at you can fit in the stand.

Pump size: If you go with the CPR linked above then I'd suggest an Eheim 1250 or a Mag3. According to this (http://www.reefs.org/library/pumps/index.html) link (click on "More info" to see a chart with height vs. flow) at 4 ft pumping height you'll get ~200 gallons per hour (gph) from the 1250 and ~250 gph from the Mag 3 (the above CPR overflow is rated for 300 gph). These are the two brands I have used, like, and recommend.

Tubing size: For the overflow just use clear flexible PVC that you can buy by-the-foot at a hardware store or home center. I believe the CPR takes a .75 inch inner diameter tube. For the return plumbing building and gluing something from rigid PVC is better but you could also use the clear flexible stuff. Just be sure that the connections are really tight. That tubing size will depend on the brand and model pump you chose to use.

[MizTanks]

Any one want to explain the difference between a sump and refugium? I sort of know, lol.

[XSiVE]

A sump, at the end of the day is just a place to hold things... those things may be equipment, rock, a refugium, or heck, just extra water volume. A refugium is typically a place where you keep living organisms that could not otherwise thrive in your display for some reason (typically stuff there would eat them too quickly) that possibly contribute to the food web in the display. The refugium should share the water supply / filtration with the rest of the system, it can be its own tank, or a chamber in the sump. Most people use a refugium to grow macroalgae in hopes that it will out-compete ant nuisance algae that could be growing in their display tank.

examples:
My Sump has 3 chambers, the skimmer is in one, the return pump and heaters are in / connected to the second chamber, and the 3rd chamber is a type of refugium.

I actually keep two "refugiums", one is a 29 gallon tank with a light that runs opposite my display lights, it's where I grow my chaetomorpha algae. The second is an un-lit chamber in my sump packed full of live rock, I use this to allow sponges that like the dark to live in peace away from any fish in the display that would otherwise eat them. The sponges help filter the water.

[AZDesertRat]

Here is probably the best tutorial on sumps available today:
http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

[Frank143]

Home Depot CFL works great for your sump lighting.

[MizTanks]

I've decided to go with a HOB overflow with a gph of 300, as apposed to getting the tank drilled. This will be plenty of flow for a 26g right? Does this also mean I'll need a return pump with the same gph?

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_aquariumpage.aspx?pagealias=overflow_boxes_cpr&utmsource=googlesem&utmmedium=cpc&utmcampaign=googlesem&gclid=CMCEqaz86KMCFQHW5wodkCz21w

[AZDesertRat]

You will want a pump that does approx 300 GPH at whatever feet of head you require. Make sure to count not only the vertical distance but also all fittings, bends and restrictions in the head calculations. Its usually in the 5-6 foot range when you consider maybe 4 feet vertical lift and a couple bends and a ball valve. If you use flexible vinyl its a good idea to increase it one size since the internal diameter of the barbed nipples is smaller and adds head. My pump has a 3/4" outlet but I increased the tubing size to 1" so the inside diameter of the barbed nipples was still 3/4" and did not add additional head, this kept my flow up where I wanted it. Most pump manufacturers recommend stepping up the size especially Mag.

[MizTanks]

What type of return tubing should I use? Is there something out there made just for this this purpose? I would like something that I can use to direct the flow where I want it to go.

[XSiVE]

you can use clear nylon tubing to get it back up to the display, then put a barb fitting onto some PVC 90's to make a "U" shape to dump water back into the tank (and hang onto the tank at the same time) then put another 90 on the outlet to direct flow.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

What type of return tubing should I use? Is there something out there made just for this this purpose? I would like something that I can use to direct the flow where I want it to go.

I'd use clear vinyl tubing from a Hardware store or Home center (the type you can buy by the foot). If you don't want to build the parts that are in the tank then something like this would work...
http://www.marinedepot.com/plumbing_parts_fittings_return_u-tube-ap.html

[MizTanks]

Shoot I got a couple of those from my mag 350 canister filters and the tubing to boot~but I was hoping to get those squiggley things that you can bend and point where ya want the flow most.
How many Koralia's would you put into it? Man this is fun!!! Haven't been this excited about a tank is quit some time:cheer::cheer::woot::woot:

[AZDesertRat]

You are referring to Loc Line which can be found at www.modularhose.com or most any good LFS or online vendor.

When building your return be very careful how deep you place it in the tank as in a power outage the water will backsiphon to that level and possibly overflow your sump if you do not have sufficient room.
I am a firm believer in the Air Gap. Place the return just slightly below the surface so you don't get splashing but close enough to the surface the water will only siphon to that level before the return is exposed to atmosphere and the siphon breaks. You will have some recommend drilling holes in thh return or adding check valves but both are bad choices and usually done as an afterthought to prop up a poor design. Both drilled holes and check valves require maintenance and can and will flood anyway, all it takes is a piece of food, a snail, an anemone, a small fish, a piece of algae or even a singkle grain of sand on a check valve seat to defeat them. It does not have to be a catastrophic failure, even a trickle will flood eventually.

My display is 100G and my sump is 30G. My returns are 3/4" below the surface so when the power goes off I siphon a maximum of 3.5 gallons back to my sump. Since my sump is a 30 gallon and i only keep it at about 22 gallons since that is the best level for my skimmer I never have to worry about a flood, I have 8 gallons of freeboard or spare room at all times.

[Tom@HaslettMI]

+1 on having returns close to the surface. As an added bonus it provides good surface agitation.

Tom

[cg5071]

yep, the holes in my loc-line dont/havnt broken the syphon when I test/shut the pumps off. Glass holes also has locline or as said most any of the online vendors.