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What is one of the colors on a clownfish? (hint there is a clownfish on the CR logo in the top left corner of the page.)

Cyno cause idea?


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  1. #1
    MizTanks - Reefkeeper
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    Jamie
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    Default Cyno cause idea?

    My fuge is only 3gs and is where I add my top off water. Ro/di .0 TDS. Could this cause the cyno?
    There's nothing like being a Reefer! www.upmmas.com

  2. #2
    CR Member
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    Jim

    Default

    Hi,

    Your phosphate levels are high enough to sustain cyanobacteria growth. Because you are dealing with a tiny amount of phosphate, use some GFO in a mesh bag placed in your sump. Try 1 teaspoon of GFO to start and siphon out as much of the cyano when doing a water change. If the GFO is removing an adequate amount of phosphate, the cyanobacteria will not regenerate as quickly or may not grow back at all. Your RO water is in very good shape so the phosphate is coming in through food. I get blooms of bluegreen cyanos after feeding Rod's food......Jim Z.

  3. #3

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    Manoj
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    Hey Jamie,

    Cyno is known to grow and sustain in high nutrient water. With that said. Many times I have seen cyno with low phosphate and 0 - low nitrate. Hence, I am not 100% sure the cause of cyno.

    Many hobbiest also suggest that cyno forms in a low flow area. But I have had cyno multiple times in a high flow area

    how ever I found these techniques to work

    - Phosphate media to keep phosphate low
    - run some carbon
    - Keep feeding low
    - Keep nitrates low
    - red slime remove ( chemi clean)
    - 48 hr dark cycle

  4. #4
    CR Member
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    Jeff R.Solution
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    i agree with Manoj. i would start with a large water change. if you reduce lighting, make certain you have media in there to catch the bacteria as it dies off, otherwise you are adding more waste to the water column.
    you might already know this, but never use the stuff called "Red Slime Remover", as the Cyno is a bacteria, and that medication will destroy not only that bacteria but other beneficial ones as well. that will result in a re-cycle of the tank.
    [imglink]http://www.rowelab.com/AquaController/sig.php?n=flynnstone[/imglink]

  5. #5
    rmalone - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    You only have it in fuge right? No chemiclean not worth it for the trouble you have. I wouldn't change the light over the tank since its not in the display, gfo yes, cut feeding yes.
    And no I doubt top off water into the fuge could cause the problem.

  6. #6
    MizTanks - Reefkeeper
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    Default

    Yup it's only in the fuge. Have thinned out the cheato. Did a 5g wc today. See if this makes sense. I'm using a pre-skimmer box to help keep the DT's water surface clean. Otherwise the surface holds an oily protein. So the water being removed from the DT is mainly surface water. I am using a nano skimmer (not happy with it either) which is placed in the fuge.

    What I'm thinking is that the protein being skimmed off the water surface is to much for the skimmer and cheato to handle?
    There's nothing like being a Reefer! www.upmmas.com

  7. #7
    dlhirst - Reefkeeper
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    Phosphates are the food for cyano according to everyone I've spoken to about this. That being said, phosphates regulary attach to proteins, so there could be an opportunity to dispose of some with a skimmer. The best choice, though, is irone oxide, as the other have suggested.

  8. #8
    MizTanks - Reefkeeper
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    Default

    Ok so a po4'reactor it is
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  9. #9
    binford4000 - Reefkeeper
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    I agree with most everything said.GFO and a fluidized reactor is my Favorite Po4 control along with water changes which is a dilution method.The problem with aquarium water versus ocean water is it is a contained volume of water.DSB are a proven method of nitrate and phosphate control also.The most common method of you intrudecing phosphate into your system is simply the undigested food we feed our fish and coral.Do you rinse your frozen foods?? I use to laugh about doing it but the more reading I do on the processes of industrial frozen foods for the hobby the more it makes sense.Getting rid of it is important but figureing why you keep getting it is the answer.You might want to try and eliminate one food source and see if it makes a diffrence or rinse and observe the fuge's reaction and then go from there.I have never had an issue with red slime remover,guess others have so it's your call.Consistant water changes with good R/O(which I know you have.Your welcome) and a quality skimmer is esential for phosphate control.I have Mrs Binfords tank on a continues water change cycle useing a doaser that changes 3% of her water and does the TO daily.Running GFO in the correct amount will only enhance water quality, so go for it!

    PS: BRS sell a nice unit for a cheap price that is easy to work on and comes with evrything you'll need except a pump.I also highly recomend BRS high capcity GFO Good luck

  10. #10
    MizTanks - Reefkeeper
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    Default

    I do rinse my frozen always, I'm a big believer in it I'm beginning to think that when I crashed my fuge with the accidental Hyposalinity lazy dumb mistake. That it affected the SB and this is just a result from that. Last night I cleaned out as much of the slime as possible and lowered the timer from 8hrs to 6hrs. Also thinned the chaeto a bit more. As for a GFO reactor, it's going to have to wait for a bit longer. I've other priorities at the moment (Thank You Chuck) LOL.
    There's nothing like being a Reefer! www.upmmas.com

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