dinoflagellates?

[brandeewyne]

i understand that the exact species that are found in home aquariums have not been identified, let alone studied to an extent of having a solid eradication treatment. that being said, i also understand that the most common form of attack is elevated pH (up to 8.6,) decreased photoperiod (4 hrs max per day) and decreased nutrients (nitrates and more importantly, phosphates.) none of which is a quick fix or guaranteed fix, let alone a permanent fix if it does happen to help.

has anyone had anyone had experience with this snot-like enemy?

[Sharkboy87]

Yes, very commin in "new reef tanks" (less than 1 year old,) with excessive nutrient levels. Continue to do what you have been doing, if you have implimented what you have posted ^. Keep sucking them off with a siphon when you do water changes, daily if necesary. Since they are a protazoa and not bacteria, medications such as erythromycin will not really work on them.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php#11

[brandeewyne]

this isn't a new tank .. nor have nutrient levels been an issue in the past so i'm still trying to pinpoint the cause. phos tests are essentially useless considering they consume them at such a high rate, even if they are partially responsible a test wouldn't confirm.

i'll have drunk fish as of tomorrow .. vodka, here i come. adding it to the regiment.

ugh. my poor tank.

and thank you for the input, much appreciated.

[Sharkboy87]

What kind of salt and makeup water are you using? Additives? Foods?

[schminksbro]

Actually dinos are very common in older tanks as well. Maintain high Ph, reduce lighting and no water changes until eradicated. If you get them on the run a lights out treatment for 3 days can help push them over the edge.

[MizTanks]

When I start getting small breakouts after a wc. It's telling me that it's time to change my RO filter. When I do, no more dino's.

[brandeewyne]

Originally Posted by schminksbro

Maintain high Ph, reduce lighting and no water changes until eradicated.

thank you for the input, much appreciated .. although the "no water change" suggestion kind of surprises me. everything i've read so far has suggested daily siphoning of any visible offenders. what is the benefit of waiting out the 3 day "lights out" period before removing them?

my RODI water tests at 0 for TDS .. what do you find as your correlation between the two, Miz?

[schminksbro]

In my experience the 3 days by themselves won't do the trick. When the lights come back on the dinos will return. If you get them on the run and then throw the knock out punch with the lights out you can push them over the edge. I also don't know the science behind the no water changes but I came across it on RC. Being that I noticed blooms after water changes I decided to give it a shot. It did the trick. Fighting dinos is a tough battle but if you take these measures you can win. By the way have you noticed a snail die off? Some bacteria can resemble dinos but dead snails are a pretty good indicator that dinos are what your dealing with.

Originally Posted by brandeewyne

thank you for the input, much appreciated .. although the "no water change" suggestion kind of surprises me. everything i've read so far has suggested daily siphoning of any visible offenders. what is the benefit of waiting out the 3 day "lights out" period before removing them?

my RODI water tests at 0 for TDS .. what do you find as your correlation between the two, Miz?

[schminksbro]

Here you go Brandee
http://www.reefs.org/library/article/t_crail.html

[brandeewyne]

i have .. my snail population has dwindled drastically. that was the final indication of what it was (undoubtedly) i was dealing with. looks like i'll be restocking once i win this battle.

my pH is currently peaking at 8.5 .. would you recommend i go any higher?

thank you, i'll be diving into that article with the quickness. i'm so grateful for any help i can get .. i'm ready to pull my hair out. it's been difficult finding much "solid" information on the issue so far. from the reading i've done, i'm under the impression the exact species most home aquarist deal with have yet to be identified let alone directly studied.