ok, a lfs GAVE me this Lobo so i could try to save it. i think it will do A LOT better in a stable system (where the parameters don't get all out of wack on shippment recv. days). so that is a good start, any more advise on at least giving it a fighting chance ??
Bobby,about a yra ago i bought a 6polyped Lobophyllia sp. that was in terrible condition.4 of the 6 polyps were receded so bad you could just barely see the red tissue.The other 2 were not much better.I was able to save the coral since its been in my care.
ADVICE--good moderate current,moderate lighting increasing to bright light once it starts to hea,FOOD,FOOD,and more FOOD(mysis shhrimp)
i think i can handle that David, i have mysis out the wazoo and where it is placed now is a moderate flow area and about 1/3 of the way up the tank (so i would say moderate lighting). Thanks man, i really want to save this guy.
BTW, what are the differences in the branching type and boulder type of the Lobophyllia ?? the one in question is more of a boulder type, and the other new one is doing great but its skeleton is more like that of a Candy Cane or Torch coral. so i am guessing that they are different sp.
The most common species of Lobophyllia is hemprechii.That species has a phaceloid(branching) skeleton but usually the large,meaty polyp hides it.Even the boulder type growth forms of this species has the same skeleton.Its just that usually its not recognized.The skeletal growth form can also be meandering(first pic),although it can start to develop polyps that will branch off.A large colony can have both forms of skeletal characteristics.
ONe more thing Bobby,whenever your nursing a sick coral back to health.It is imperative that you keep your nutrient levels as close to 0 as possible.When a coral recedes(such as yours)the septa(skeletal ridges that radiate outwards from the columella(center skeletal structure located underneat the center of the polyp mouth)are prone to algae inasion.Once this starts,it can be very difficult to dave the coral.That is why I recommend very low nutrient levels to discourage this algae groth as well as moderate/decent current.
Heavy skimming,waterchanges,and what i run 24/7 in my tanks is carbon(remember to change it as least every 2 wks,once a wk though is preffered by me)
ONe more thing,often sick corals will not accept food(especialy larger mysis).Start by takeng a cube of mysis and blending it i a dixie cup full of tank water.Useing a turkey baster,spot feed it at NIGHT about an hr after lights go out.If you get tentacle response,your good to go as the tentnacles will readily capture/engulf the food.If your not getting any tentacle response,
then dont try to force it to eat.Just squirt a little at it every night.IME,it can take anywhere from 1-5 days to get tentacle response or 2-4wks.
thanx for all your help on this subject, Mr. LPS !! this thread is going into my favorites for future use. Do you mind if i throw it on my site when i get into the coral nursing pages ??
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Lobophyllia in bad shape
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