I agree with the advice given,cyanobacteria thrives in low current environments.My friends 120gal tank was covered in cyano mats and we eradicated it just be adding a few more Maxi-jet1200's.
We think we figured out why the medicine wasn't working: we were
skimming it out after killing it with our spiffy UV light filter. After
checking the ingredient list, it is composed of bacteria that like to
eat slime. #ed_op#br#ed_cl#Our
new proposed plan of action is to temporarily turn off the skimmer and
the UV filter, add the medicine and let it sit for a day or two before
turning the skimmer back on. Sound okay?#ed_op#br#ed_cl#
#ed_op#br#ed_cl#
Is our problem cyanobacteria? Is that the technical term for slime?#ed_op#br#ed_cl#
You problem is cyanobacteria,the meds used to treat it are an anti-biotic and will kill other bacteria in your tank besides cyano.Cyano is one of the primary consumers of the nutrient/nitrogen cycle in the ocean.It will always be present in a reef tank even when not visible in "mats".Although the meds will kill it as well as other bacteria,it will come back if you dont fix the source of the problem(low current,excess nutrients)
#ed_op#DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#Sounds like high phosphates and maybe high nitrates to me. I didn't see how old your bulbs are, but a good general rule of thumb for bulb life is six months.As far as circulation,be sure to position the PHs at different heights and directions to maximize the effect. On your cyano problem, here's some things that could help:#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#1. Change more water more often#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#2.Turnup your skimmer so it produces a wet skimmate instead of a dry foam. No offense, but consider upgrading to a better one. Coralife makes a superkimmer which is great and Aqua C Remoras are also top notch.#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#3. Try dialingback your lighting. Even a few hours can make a big difference.#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#4.Feed less and less often. Ditch any flakes or pellets since they are loaded with phosphates. Also, you can only test for one form of phosphates and the algae may be consuming them as fast as the enter the tank, so that's why, IMO, test kits are worthless.#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#5. Rinse the frozen food really well with oldSW before feeding and never add the "juice" to your tank#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#6. Be sure to use only RO/DI or distilled water only not only for water changes but fortop-offs as well.#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#7. As a last resort, add a phosphate binder. I'd use about half a bag at firstwhile keeping an eye out for any adverse reactions for your inhabitants. There's also a product called Chemi-Clean that works pretty well.#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#Good luck!#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#KG#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl#
#ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#DONT USE CHEMICALS fish dont like em#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#get 2 powerheads in there the 600 ones they are like 20 bucks and purify the water your using #ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl#
Good advise above but ill stress the point on chemicals don't use.. Their is
abetter way you just need to eliminate problems one at a time till
you find yours
We all have had your problem at one time are another and the large majorette
don't use anything but finding and fixing the problem.
Well, a lot of the advice given we've already been following, with the exception of increased current.
-We change the water 10% every week (or, if we somehow forget, our plan is to chang 20% the next week).
-Our blue lights are on 12 hours a day, and the whites are on for 8.
-We feed about a quarter of the frozen food "pellets". We take them from the container, cut those into quarters, and that's four days worth of food.
-We always feed frozen food after rinsing it really well with salt water.
-Since our first algae problem ~6 months ago, when we discovered why tap water shouldn't be used, we have been using distilled water.
-We have PhosBan in our filter, which we change every time we change the carbon.
I don't mean to sound petulant or like we (by we, I mean my family) aren't listening to the advice given, but most of it doesn't seem to apply, because we already do what you are reccommending. We did move our smaller powerhead down so it blows across the sand, with no positive or negative results yet.
A par of 6 are 800 Seios is the next move id make Thea are 35 to 50
each the cheapest one i no of that gives good flow
You just cant have to much flow as far as I'm concerned
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