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Nasty Evil Algae


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  1. #1
    Mizu - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    67

    Default Nasty Evil Algae

    So. Our saltwater fish tank has been up and running for a while now,
    with only one serious algae attack. We solved that problem by watching
    food consumption and purchasing a UV filter to kill all the floating
    stuff. However, we have an algae problem we can't seem to fix. At first
    we let this algae grow, since it was such a pretty red color and seemed
    to be benificial - it kept producing air bubbles (we were assured by
    our lfs that these bubbles were nitrogen and we shouldn't disturb the
    algae). Since then, it has spread to almost completely cover our live
    sand and seems to be affecting our blenny's health. The more algae
    there is, the more gaunt and underfed he is. We have contacted a place
    called Drs. Foster and Smith, and they aren't being much help. Their
    "cure-all" for "Red Slime" didn't seem to work when we tried it - if
    anything it helped the algae. Certainly there was a new bloom almost
    overnight.#ed_op#br#ed_cl#
    #ed_op#br#ed_cl#
    #ed_op#img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v144/mizuneko/Fish/CopyofP1290009.jpg"#ed_cl##ed_op#br#ed_cl#

  2. #2
    graphixx - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    2,785
    First Name
    Greg

    Default

    you can do a couple of things, you can increase your flow and that helps. and you can cut back your photo period and that will help as well, bump up your water changes also. Good luck keep us posted on the battle
    fulltankshot 1 - Nasty Evil Algae

  3. #3
    Mizu - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    67

    Default

    Increase our "flow"?

  4. #4

    Default

    Flow= MOvement of water

    A company named Bio Chem has a reef safe algae killer that takes car of the red and brown algae and I know it works because I have used it and so have alot of people I know

  5. #5
    Mizu - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    67

    Default

    We used a medicine called UltraLife Red Slime Remover, which was reccommended by Fosters and Smith plus our LFS.#ed_op#br#ed_cl#
    We also recently added some VitaChem vitamins, which, oddly
    enough, have re-vitalized our blenny while diminishing the slime (#ed_op#span style="font-style: italic;"#ed_cl#slightly#ed_op#/span#ed_cl#).#ed_op#br#ed_cl#
    #ed_op#br#ed_cl#
    We have a powerhead (rated 20) that we could position over the sand
    bed. Would that help or would we need something stronger? Our other
    avaliable powerehead is rated at 75. For anything else we'd have to run
    to the store.

  6. #6
    jerryc - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    1,345

    Default

    Sounds like Brimstone is right on with the water movement is the
    Small powerhades all you have.
    In my 55 i have 2 powerheads running 600 gallons each and 600 return
    from the sump. thats 1800 total turnover are 32 times the tank per hour
    I HAVE A PROBLEM' I'M ADDICTED TO MICROMUSSA

    RazorBack Reef. com
    keepersofthereef.com
    http://www.captivereefing.ws/weblog.php?w=7

  7. #7
    Mizu - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    67

    Default

    Those two small powerheads are all we have, along with a Fluval 304 Filter (with a good current return capacity).

  8. #8
    jerryc - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    1,345

    Default

    then id suggest getting some good pumps to up the flow
    To me the main thing starting of is good circulation and a good water supply
    with out them your in for a lot of trouble
    I HAVE A PROBLEM' I'M ADDICTED TO MICROMUSSA

    RazorBack Reef. com
    keepersofthereef.com
    http://www.captivereefing.ws/weblog.php?w=7

  9. #9
    Reptoreef - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Brigham City, Utah
    Posts
    2,530

    Default

    first of all... get to the cause of the matter, then treat. Cyanobacteria thrives on phosphates. Phosphates bind with the calcium carbonate ion which is why it seems to coat everything of a calcium carbonate base. Flow will definitely be a huge help. Please, share what water source you have(tap, ro, ro/di, etc). How often and how much do you feed??? How old and what kind of lighting do you have??? If we can help you get to the source, we'll be far more beneficial in helping you to solve your tank's problem. Lastly, have you researched the use of a refugium and skimmer??? Phosphate test kits are a sweet asset and IMO, please, dose NO MORE until we can help you in beginning your treatment of the source(s).
    There's nowhere else I'ld rather be... unless, of course, you're buying

  10. #10
    Mizu - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    67

    Default

    Our tank has the two powerheads which move about 550 gph. Even though they are named 20 and 70, they push 150 and 400 gph respectively.

    We have monitored phosphates and nitrates and for the last couple of months they have been at zero. We monitor those (and ammonia, nitrites, calcium, oxygen, Ph, salinity) at least once a week. We have an in-line UV filter. We use Phos-ban in our Fluval.

    For water we use distilled with suplpliments. We are using Oceanic sea salt.

    Feeding is done once every 2 or 3 days and we feed about one quarter cube of the frozen food which is enough to keep them eating for about 30 - 40 seconds.

    We use a Sea-clone skimmer which has been very effective at waste removal. Change it once a week.

    Our light is a Coralife 4 ft. with four dual bulbs - two white, two blue. It has lunar LEDs not that that matters.

    We've considered a refugium but not acted on it yet. IT is a very tempting addition as it would allow us to employ macroalgae without risking it to the fish.

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