I have had a crocea clam for a month and a half. Yesterday he started to shrivel up and today he looks like he is almost dead. Nitrates -5ppm Nit -0ppm phos-0ppm
I have had a crocea clam for a month and a half. Yesterday he started to shrivel up and today he looks like he is almost dead. Nitrates -5ppm Nit -0ppm phos-0ppm
I've noticed nobody is answering. I don't have a clam but have done a lot of reading. I think people need more info to give you an idea. Are you testing your calcium levels? Clams are very dependent on calcium. Are you adding any trace elements to your water? What is his placement in the tank? What kind of lighting are you running? Any possibility of a picture? Someone may have IM you to give you help also but I couldn't just leave you hanging. Hope things are going better.
Angie
When you make a mistake look for the lesson to be learned and try not to repeat it.
Thanks for your advice Angie. I have 3 175 watt metal halides 20,000k 2 96 watt 10k flourescents,4 96watt actinics. The clam is about 2 1/2 inches long. He is on the bottom of the tank on 1/8 inch gravel. The calcium level is usually 400-420. The halides and 10k flourescents are on 9 hrs. each day, the actinics for 12. I am doing a 30% water change as we speak , I feed him phytoplankton 3 times a week but I do not know if that helps or just hurts the water quality. I have read small clams need to be Fed, but larger clams suffer from poor water quality. I think I should move it closer to the surface and put it on a harder substrate
I would put it on something hard to it can attach and make sure it is in good flow, not strong flow but a flow pattern that will bring food to it. small clams rely more on food and when they get older they rely more on light
Put it up higher on the rock, closer to the light, on a flat surface. Let it attach there. Before doing so, turn it over and inspect the byssal port. Look for any tears, discoloration, or pyramelid snails. Also check the scutes (ridges) on the shell. Look for any sponges, aptasia, or other nasties. If you see ANY of this, do NOT put it on the rock. Put it back in the sand and post back here as to what you found.
In some cases, clams that are wild harvested (not farmed) and removed from substrate in the wild, are shipped to the LFS damaged. If the byssal gland was torn from the clam, it would die, but slowly. You'd probably not know what hit you because the "hole" or opening would look okay. Meanwhile, a very important part of the clam's anatomy may have been removed and you'd not know it..
If it is snails, you will need to physically remove every one you can find. At that, you will want to check the clam for days if not weeks, before you put it on the rocks. If it adhered to the rocks, and was in fact under attack from the snails, you'll have a hard time treating it due to it's new real estate and the ALMOST impossible task of removing it from the rock.
If you see ANY sponges on the shell, srub them with a brush and kill em! There are many 'boring' sponges that will attack a clam by making a pinhole in the shell, and working their way inside. They then attack from the inside out.
If there are any aptasia, or other 'irritants' on the shell, this could cause your clam to retract its mantle. Ultimately, this causes a loss of photosynthetic activity that the clam is dependant on to feed. It will wither and die. I cleaned my clams WEEKLY with a soft, child's toothbrush.
Keep feeding. But, rather than "shotgunning' by dumping phyto in your system, use a two liter bottle, with the bottom cut out and a hole drilled in the cap. Insert airline tubing into the hole. Now, lower the bottle onto the clam, much like an old diver's bell, and squirt phytoplankton into the hose, and down to the fish. Leave the bottle on it until you notice that the majority of the greenwater is gone. Then, simply lift the bottle off, and viola.. stuffed clams! Mmmm....stuffed clams!
Lunch time...
See ya later!
Dave
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Oh...and as a final note...do you see that the clam's mantle is EVENLY distributed and opened? Is it somewhat closed on the bottom, near the inhalant siphon..but fully open on top nearest the exhalant siphon....
If so, this may be what some call "pinched mantle disease". It is still pretty much unknown what causes this. Some say virus, others say parasite. In any case, it is 'catchy'. If PMD is in your system, it can kill every clam in there in short time.
I got two clams with PMD and within weeks, they died, and took two VERY healthy crocea with them. Two crocea that I had had for more than a year before they were taken by the 'mystery disease'. The ONLY clams to survive that problem were two additional crocea that were on the opposite side of my tank.
Dave
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Hey Dave, you are a fountain of advice, more than any book I have read on clams. I did not see any aiptaisia, snails, or a ripped byssal opening although I probably would not know what it looked like anyway. I moved him up in the tank and placed him on a flat piece of rock. The clam seems to be doing better today after the water change.thanksI will let you know if any more symptoms develop.
No no no.. The information that I merely "regurgitate" is from open sources. I certainly didn't come up with that information all by my lonesome.
As a matter of fact, if you are interested in clams, and keeping them, you MUST make an investment in Daniel Knopps "Giant Clams" book. In my opinion, it is one of the BEST books out there.
All of the words of wisdom that I post about tridacnids comes from my couple/few years experience, and resourses like Daniel's book and the wealth of information at wet web media and other places.
Dave
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Very good advice DavidP! One thing I did with my clams when they didn't look like they were feeling well, I did DT Phytoplankton soaks when I'd hand feed some of my corals. I fill up a bowl large enough to cover the clams completely with tank water and the proper amount of DT's for the water amount used, watching to see the green color of the DT's/Phyto start to get lighter which gives you a good idea of what your clam is taking in. I only do this if the clam is not attached by his foot. If you have to tug at all on your clam if he's decided to put down his foot, you can pull it's foot right out of it's shell and ultimately kill the clam.
It seems like you have a pretty good grasp on it so far. If the clam has been in the same place for a long time, he'll likely have his foot planted. In that case, when he's planted firmly, just remember that he's likely getting his phyto through the water column. You can always give him a baster shower of DT's phytoplankton just for good measure, but don't overdo it. The other thing I would like to suggest is maybe moving him around to find out where he thrives. It makes a big difference believe it or not. What do you have the clam sitting by, and at what point in the tank is he at? Check the amount of current as well. Once you find his perfect place, he'll come right back around, unless there is something more to his change as DavidP suggested. He gave some great info up there as usual. I just had to through in two cents worth! Good Luck! ... Angel :angel07:
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:angel07:...Reef_Angel
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Honestly, lots of folks use the "bowl" method. I preferr NOT to handle my clams at all. There has to be some added stress by moving them to and from the bowl. The neat feeding bottle thing worked for me. You can also use ANY sized container that will do the same.
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