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  1. #21
    Heidi - Reefkeeper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocho Cinco View Post
    So in all I'm thinking:

    -about a 1500 gph overflow
    -about a 1000gph pump (more or less)
    -overkill skimmer
    -Sump, depends on what I can fit below stand.
    -Prolly, drill one hole for the overflow and do 2 returns. That way I only have to drill once.

    ---------- Post added at 11:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:15 PM ----------



    Ah I see! I'm gonna look and see what I can find at stores first just so I don't have to order but I will shoot for that same size. I would get that package for about $90 because I wont need the bit.

    Yeah I say only drill once. returns can be over the edge since they will be hidden from view by your hood anyway. OHH there is a cool site about sumps too. Just so you can get some ideas about what you want, or don't want as for set up. Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums good stuff on there for sure, that I have used

    Heidi

  2. #22
    Ocho Cinco - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Mike

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    I got the tank today ! I found another reefer that is going to come over and drill for me. My plan of taking it to get drilled while I had a truck didnt work so I was kinda stuck. I plan on ordering 1500 GPH overflow box from gl*******s.com next. The tank actually came with two 2 bulb (50 watts each) flouresent light strips that cover the whole tank. I'd assume they would work fine for a FOWLR tank. Any idea if they make an actinic type bulb like that? Random thought, I'm sure its best to use only RO water with filling the tank but could I do some tap water since it's fish only?
    DO WORK!

  3. #23
    Sir Patrick - Reefkeeper A2 Club Coordinator
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    The Fish Doctors in Ypsilanti caries actinic and 50/50 flourecent bulbs. I have used 1 actinic along with a normal white shop light on my past fowlr tank, and the colors looked great, on my fish as well as the live rock. Didnt get any abnormal algea growth till the bulbs got old, around a year and a half.

    I also recomend the glass holes kit.

  4. #24
    Ocho Cinco - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Patrick View Post
    The Fish Doctors in Ypsilanti caries actinic and 50/50 flourecent bulbs. I have used 1 actinic along with a normal white shop light on my past fowlr tank, and the colors looked great, on my fish as well as the live rock. Didnt get any abnormal algea growth till the bulbs got old, around a year and a half.

    I also recomend the glass holes kit.
    Cool I'll for sure swap some out and pick up a few of those to add some color
    DO WORK!

  5. #25
    Ocho Cinco - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Glass Holes makes you select bulk head size. Short or Tall (for glass over 1/2"). My glass is exactly 1/2", do I go short or tall?
    DO WORK!

  6. #26
    Ocho Cinco - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Ok, so I ordered the 1500 gph glass holes overflow. Now I'm thinking plumbing and sump. Any ideas/suggestions there? I've been looking for some kind of plumbing diagram or simple how to artice but no luck.
    DO WORK!

  7. #27
    Heidi - Reefkeeper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocho Cinco View Post
    Ok, so I ordered the 1500 gph glass holes overflow. Now I'm thinking plumbing and sump. Any ideas/suggestions there? I've been looking for some kind of plumbing diagram or simple how to artice but no luck.
    Start with a drawn picture starting at the back of your tank and how you want the water to get into your sump. Then have a second picture of your sump and how you want the water to move through it to the return then draw the lines back to the tank. I took my sketch like that to lowes and hung out in the plumbing section till I had all the pieces I needed to make it work. Another good place is that Melvin website I linked in and earlier post. Option #3 is have a friend that has done it a few time help you. It's a totally personal thing that is hard to explain in a post I guess. If me posting some of my awful drawings would help let me know....
    Heidi

  8. #28
    Ocho Cinco - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heidi View Post
    Start with a drawn picture starting at the back of your tank and how you want the water to get into your sump. Then have a second picture of your sump and how you want the water to move through it to the return then draw the lines back to the tank. I took my sketch like that to lowes and hung out in the plumbing section till I had all the pieces I needed to make it work. Another good place is that Melvin website I linked in and earlier post. Option #3 is have a friend that has done it a few time help you. It's a totally personal thing that is hard to explain in a post I guess. If me posting some of my awful drawings would help let me know....
    Heidi
    I have the idea in my mind its just a matter of making it happen. Do people generally use stiff PVC or different tubing like spa tubing, etc.? Will return pumps attach directly to PVC?
    DO WORK!

  9. #29
    Sir Patrick - Reefkeeper A2 Club Coordinator
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    I prefer rigid pvc over flex pipe.
    Likes Ocho Cinco liked this post

  10. #30
    Heidi - Reefkeeper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocho Cinco View Post
    I have the idea in my mind its just a matter of making it happen. Do people generally use stiff PVC or different tubing like spa tubing, etc.? Will return pumps attach directly to PVC?
    I use both. All spa for my return. Mostly rigid for my drains.

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