If I have GHA and I test for Nitrates and Phosphates It is not abnormal to get a zero reading because the phosphates are locked up in the GHA right ?
Following the same line of thought with macro algae the macro ties up the nutrients so it is not available to the GHA correct ?
If the GHA growing in the tank has the phosphates locked up until they read zero, what causes the new algae growth ? IF there is not enough free nutrients available to grow the macro, Wouldnt the GHA growth eventually stabilize ? And subsequent harvesting of the phosphate laden GHA help in exporting said nutrients ? Maybe eventually to acceptable levels assuming there is no more phosphates/ nutrients introduced ?
I realize that it would take less energy and nutrients to grow a simple structure like GHA compared to a more complex one like Chaeto. but eventually all phosphates would be locked up the same as the macro algae principle. with nothing left to feed from the GHA should given enough time starve itself out ??? wishful thinking ? lol.
If all this is true, wouldn't it lead us to the conclusion that phosphates was not the main cause of GHA ? I have read posts of people having GHA problems in a low nutriet condition.
while light is a contributing factor, Algae still needs all three , light , nutrients, water to grow. Take away one of these and it will die. Although I have heard that sunlight can cause algae to grow its own food ! hmmmn. I also have read that algae need low oxygen environments
With no vascular sytem algae move ion and nutrients by active intermembrane transport from older cells to newer cells. Like recycling. This MAY be the cause, though they cant do this forever. Also note that aquatic systems are naturally very low nutrient systems, and yet reef systems are considered some of the lowest nutrient aquatic systems. So using a quality test kit for PO4 Is a must. Even 1ppm would be considered high. Plus everytime you feed, everytime a fish poops, nutrients are released and the plants can take those up.like mentioned before even the smallest amounts of PO4 will promote growth.
Nitrate on the otherhand needs to be more aboundant yet even 5ppm would be plenty for species such as gha.
Have you thought about adding a desired macro for competition.
moving nutrients and ions through membranes from old to new cells certainly helps them survive periods of low food supply ! We can do the same as humans , lol.kinda like storing fat ! lol. I didn't think algae was sophisticated enough to pull it off !
I have some Chaeto in my refugium with 7 pounds of live rock rubble. I have a 13 watt cfl over it but Im thinking I may need more light. One of the biggest differences in algae growth between a fresh water and a reef is lighting. I have always read low wattage cfls are fine, but I'm already competing against a simpler structure . I have been reading alittle about algae scrubbers, anyone try one ?
It has been my experience that Po4 is a major contributor but not the only one. Over extended light cycles as well as natural sunlight can also add to the problem. Po4 in measurable levels with a hobby test kit is sign of poor water quality that of course allows nuisance algaes to grow and propagate. With that said lets talk about the testing. Our standard test kits are very basic and easily contaminated . Which will result in poor or incorrect readings. Many of the kits will not even produce the same results with the same water sample twice in a row. They are intended to be accurate enough to help you maintain a healthy aquarium but can also do the opposite. If you are able to keep macro algae alive you have traces of Po4 and No3. This is not a bad thing. Corals do need small traces of both. Even when most reefers pound their chest and claim they have absolute zero results their is really still traces of them. True zero results will starve out and kill any macro you put in your system and a turf algae filter would probably never grow algae. With that said it has been my experience if your results from testing are good then flow would be your next place to trouble shoot. Many people think of flow in volume or how hard the water in GPH is being moved. While high turnover rates are a good thing within reason the quality of the flow is more important. Good flow will first have enough force to circulate the complete enclosure with no dead spots. Good flow also suspendeds and help remove waste and uneaten foods off the bottom and rock scrapes so it can be removed by via an overflow,filter or HOB skimmer. If that is not the issue then setting up a good clean up crew based on your tanks issues is next. But really if your keeping coral natural cleaners should have already been part of your planning. Another thing to consider,and this an after thought is pay attention to Mag levels. Not only will it keep your calcium and alk from bonding it also naturally helps reduce.algae.
Algae scrubbers do work but require a lot of time and constant cleaning and really don't reduce excesses nutrients in that large of a volume. They quickly become a big PITA! Unless your someone who enjoys working on your tank all the time. Better results can be accomplished easily with bio pellet's,nitrate reactors,larger water changes,Zeovit also has very good reducing products.that work well. Many reefers use Vodka or some other carbon source. A top of the line protein skimmer is also an excellent addition. I personally use Pobido's Bio Digest and Brite wells reef bio fuel for a safe carbon dose and maintain a mag level of 1600 ppm. I can now kill any type of algae in a matter of days! Cheato turns white in less the two days . Good luck and man was that a long .02. Lol
Last edited by binford4000; 09-07-2013 at 07:20 AM.
Well stated, Mr. Binford. Do you also use prodibio bio optim?
Thanks! Good to see your around still. I don't use the bio optim. The bio digest and reef fuel keep things so low I don't think it would make things any better. I am happy with the results I am getting so why change things.
My chaeto was about a sandwich baggie a month ago it is now a little smaller. I wondered why I was having trouble growing it. Ive cleaned my algae and its been a week and no sign of any more yet. it wasnt really too bad just s few tuffs on the sand and one rock.
My chaeto was about a sandwich baggie a month ago it is now a little smaller. I wondered why I was having trouble growing it. Ive cleaned my algae and its been a week and no sign of any more yet. it wasnt really too bad just s few tuffs on the sand and one rock.
Sounds good,how long has the tank been set up? If it was me I would watch the area to see if it starts to return. If it does redirect the flow to that area so it gets more flow after you clean it up. Have you posted a FTS (full tank shot) We love pics on CR!
phosphates not to blame ?
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