How do builld a standpipe for your Internal Overflow

[graphixx]

DUH!!!! Thanks Dave, I guess I probably could of done that. but I guess thats why your paid the BIG BUCKS!!!!

[marinefiend]

Can I say one thing

Supporting many different LFS stores around me and in my country I have the rarity of reading such a well planed, thought out and worded thread.

I think that even the stores I promote would be be proud to have you post on any forum.

Kudos to you dude, you just made my day.

[lReef lKeeper]

Can I say one thing

Kudos to you dude, you just made my day.

dude is actually, dudette !! lol
but i said before, GREAT THREAD !!

[segraves1]

that is what I did when I built my tank EXCEPT for a few small changes:

- I didn't put any screen on my intake (I want everything to just get DOWN to the sump rather than get cloged into the overflow)
- where you put the vent tube for air, I connected this vent tube to my pressure lines comming back into that tank. I did this because my returns from the sump are quite a ways below my water line and as such having these vents connected to my system gives me a siphon break and keeps from draining the tank.
- I just drilled little holes in the cap to alow for venting

overall I am really happy with this setup.

[seahorsedreams]

I'm glad the multiple little holes in the cap worked for you. But I just want to make sure people know it doesn't work for most... without having to add more holes or plug up holes over time.

The screen does indeed need a little cleaning maintaintance every few months. But it's something I do to avoid a fish mishap.

[lReef lKeeper]

to avoid a fish or crab or snail mishap. i would STRONGLY suggest the screen, Chris. a snail or crab can EASILY climb into the overflow and get lodged in the pipe. just ask Graphixx22 !! lol

[segraves1]

I have had a "fish misshap" already but with how my overflow box is, if they are actually small enough to get INTO my overflow (they would HAVE to go THROUGH the slits in the box, they can't jump over and into), they just go right through the pipes and down to the sump (one of my blue damsles did this trip..... ).


My holes are actually a little large (should probubly be one size smaller). The "advanage" that I see having them "too large" is that the water tends to drain a bit slower and thus the overall tank runs a little "fuller" (higher water line) which looks better. The system is pretty self regulating. If the water is draining too slow, the water will "back up" in the box, which will increase the "weight" on the system, and thus cause the water to flow faster. Worst case, the holes get pluged up over time and the water will drain faster (start to syphon).

[perpetual98]

I don't use teflon or pvc glue on any of my standpipes. There's no pressure on any of the joints and they're underwater anyway.

[seahorsedreams]

Hmmmmmm.... I need to think about that a bit. I never thought about it before. Except for the teflon on the pipe that enters the bulkhead, for a fact I know that leaks without it.... don't ask me how I know <_<

K, you would have to make sure there was no leak in the joints or make room for the water in the overflow in the sump. My overflow holds 5 gallons. When the pump is turned off the water just sits in the overflow... if there was a low leak it would drain out.

You'd have to make sure your overflow also has no leaks (mine presently does). When I turn off the pump the water level evens out in the overflow and the display section... if there was a leak in the standpipe it would keep going and going...

*pulls out a mop*

But I realize most peeps overflow works correctly and if there was room in the sump for the extra 5 gallons I guess there wouldn't be a need. I don't have 5 gallons space though.

[perpetual98]

I follow what you're saying. Makes sense to me. I've got space in my sump though, so maybe I've just gotten lucky. Or the fact that it would be such an incredibly slow leak that it's never been an issue.

Eric