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What type of fish is in the middle of CaptiveReefs (top left corner of page...hint it is the main character in Finding Nemo) )

my new LPS reef/project log


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  1. #1
    davejnz - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Daytona Bch,FL
    Posts
    1,446

    Default my new LPS reef/project log

    I inherited another tank(48"L x 18"W x 23"tall)I think its a 75gal.Gonna transfer my current LPS reef over to this one.I still got alot to do,I'm gonna have it drilled for twin overflows.Gonna have my buddy cut them out of black acrylic at his job(computer controlled router)so that should save me a bundle plus i can design the overflows to whatever measurement i want.Probably gonna do the closed loop thing too.The only thing i cant decide on is DSB or BB/starboard reef.

  2. #2
    davejnz - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Daytona Bch,FL
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    1,446

    Default

    I think this is how i'm gonna go with the drilling.I'm gonna use 2 horizontal overflows on the upper rear corners and have 2 intakes for the closed loop.

  3. #3
    Reptoreef - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Brigham City, Utah
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    2,530

    Default

    Looks like a plan... my suggestion... make sure your intake is shallow enough not to allow too much water loss in main display when there's any power loss..
    There's nowhere else I'ld rather be... unless, of course, you're buying

  4. #4
    davejnz - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Daytona Bch,FL
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    Default

    good point,i'm figuring 3.5" under the overflow/water level should do the trick.The overflows I'll be making out of glass panels and will be 12'x3" along the back glass.Between the two of them,that should give me about 30 linear inches of overflow which should keep the layer thin and hopefully avoid the waterfall effect(loud noise).Since the overflows will be horizontal along the top of the back glass,I'm hoping to get away with using a standpipe behind the tank/bulkhead instead of having to plumb PVC elbows inside the overflow box.

  5. #5
    davejnz - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Daytona Bch,FL
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    1,446

    Default cabinet

    Just wanted to share this cabinet with everyone,i thought it was unusual how it was constructed.Every part of the stand/cabinet is completely removable,no screw,bolts,etc..

  6. #6
    flame - Reefkeeper Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    189

    Default

    Wow
    Looks great nice work.
    It is our responsibilities, not ourselves, that we should take seriously.

  7. #7

    Default

    #ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#I like the DSB. Seems to take about 6 months to start, but does a great job reducing nitrates. Just be sure to populate with lots of pods and worms to keep the top layer stirred.#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl##ed_op#DIV#ed_cl#KG#ed_op#/DIV#ed_cl#

  8. #8
    davejnz - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Daytona Bch,FL
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    1,446

    Default

    The display tank will be barebottomed(BB),with a 1/2 piece" of starboard placed on the bottom glass.The sump is looking like it will have to be 2 tanks unless i can figure out how to get around the center divider of the cabinet.On the left will be an old acrilic wet-dry that i converted into a sump currently being used on one of my tanks.I plan to partition it to make a small,dedicated skimmer that will provide a constant 9" of water for the euro-reef skimmer.This chamber will be just big enought for the skmmer to fit in.One of the tanks overflow/bulkheads will be plumbed directly to this chamber as close as possible to the intake of the skimmers pump.The rest of the sump will be a DSB,about 6" of fine sand.The water will leave th skimmer chamber and flow directly over the baffle that seperates the 2 chambers.There will also be water flow via the other bulkhead from the overflow passing directly across the top of the bed.I plan on designing the baffles so that there is only 2-3" of water flowing across and over the DSB.The water will leave the DSB section via 1" bulkhead where it will overflow into a 20gallon tank.This tank will sit on the right side of the cabinet so i will have to drill through the divider to plumb the 2 together.
    From there i will partition 1/2 of the tank off to serve as a sort of detritus trap.Then baffles to the other side where my return pump will be.I will drill that side for a float-valve for auto-top-off/kalk.
    BTW,this is still the design phase so all suggestions are welcome

  9. #9
    davejnz - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Daytona Bch,FL
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    Default

    I got the horizontal glass overflow installed,i left a little lip on it to mount frags.I had to scrap the previuos design for 1 longer overflow instead of the 2 at the corners.I finished building the closed loop return manifold/loop.It was made put of 1"-"funny pipe" and has 4 outputs.I will probably have to re-build it with 1.5" because the closed loop pump i have is a MAG18 and those pumps are rated with 1.5".Should do close to 1500gph if i re-do it with 1.5",otherwise i need to find a pressure rateed pump that'll perform with the rstrictive 1" pipe.Getting closer to getting wet now,still need to track down a piece of starboard and finish connecting the 2 sumps in the cabinet.

  10. #10
    jerryc - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Arkansas
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    1,345

    Default

    Looks good Dave looking forward to seeing it all set up
    I HAVE A PROBLEM' I'M ADDICTED TO MICROMUSSA

    RazorBack Reef. com
    keepersofthereef.com
    http://www.captivereefing.ws/weblog.php?w=7

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