equipment questions for my new 90 gallon

[EMUreef]

well this is the first time im tackling a drilled tank. so i have some questions about that and some others as well.

-What should i do for flow? i was looking at 2 Magnum 5's by koralia

The tank is goign to be mainly LPS

-I was planning on going with a durso stand pipe.

-What kinda return pump should i use? The tank is drilled with a 1 3/4", which leaves about a 1" bulkhead.

-i plan on using loc line coming out of the return, should i go 1/2" or 3/4"?

[RedfordReefer]

I have the same tank, I believe. AGA 90gal with one overflow 1/4 way across the back wall.

I have a Quiet One 4000 running through the 3/4 return. The Locline is split into two 1/2" returns. One aimed at the back wall and slightly down, the other is aimed at the surface of the water at the front corner of the same side.

For in-tank flow, I have two Koralia 3's. I have my Aussie Duncans indirectly in the flow of one Koralia, they seem to love it. The other Koralia is on the back wall between the overflow and the side. It's halfway down the back wall pointed slightly center and slightly up to adgitate the surface further.

I FULLY intend on switching them out for the 12V controllable Koralias when I get some extra cash.

[Sir Patrick]

I beleive a 1' drain will handle 700 gph- and that will be pushing it. I would go with 5-600 gpm for a return pump, after head loss.

The korillias are a great way to go. Get the controlable ones, just in case you upgrade to a wavemaker.

If you got the cheese- you might want to look into the vortechs or tunzes.

If you are on a budget, the modded maxi jets put out some flow!!

[RedfordReefer]

I beleive a 1' drain will handle 700 gph- and that will be pushing it. I would go with 5-600 gpm for a return pump, after head loss.

The korillias are a great way to go. Get the controlable ones, just in case you upgrade to a wavemaker.

If you got the cheese- you might want to look into the vortechs or tunzes.

If you are on a budget, the modded maxi jets put out some flow!!

BE WARNED: The controllable Koralias MUST BE USED WITH THE WAVEMAKER. Or you have to snip off the connectors and run them at 12v. They are NOT AC compatable. 120v will explode them all over your tank.

I have my return pump split into two returns. One feeds the Tank, the other feeds the fuge. My drain is plumbed into the center section, as I found that the 600 (the standard on a 1" drain) was killing my Chaeto for some reason.

I can dial in the GPH on the Display tank and in the fuge.

[Sir Patrick]

600 gph for a 1" bulkhead is correct- thx redford!

[EMUreef]

what size sump should i plan for? i wanna have a fuge in the middle.

im getting my skimmer in the next day or so

MSX200 a little over kill but gives me room to lightly overstock.

[RedfordReefer]

I HAD my fuge in the middle, I didn't like it. With it in the middle, you cannot control flow through it. You are forced to send ALL the water your pump needs through the fuge. I moved my Fuge to the far right, the drain/skimmer area to the center, and the return to the left. The return has a T on it, with ball valves. I can run 200-300 gph through the fuge (giving some nice dwell time without stagnation, and 500-800 through the Display.

I have the same skimmer (more or less), an ASM G2.

IF you are using the standard stand. Plan on a 38 gallon sump or so. The stands only allow for about 12" of width on the sump. I am using a 38G acrylic from glasscages. I installed the baffles myself.

[EMUreef]

I HAD my fuge in the middle, I didn't like it. With it in the middle, you cannot control flow through it. You are forced to send ALL the water your pump needs through the fuge. I moved my Fuge to the far right, the drain/skimmer area to the center, and the return to the left. The return has a T on it, with ball valves. I can run 200-300 gph through the fuge (giving some nice dwell time without stagnation, and 500-800 through the Display.

I have the same skimmer (more or less), an ASM G2.

IF you are using the standard stand. Plan on a 38 gallon sump or so. The stands only allow for about 12" of width on the sump. I am using a 38G acrylic from glasscages. I installed the baffles myself.

im planning on building my own stand.

how much did the tank cost from glasscages?

[RedfordReefer]

I actually got it from Mike (funnyguymi) for nothing. He was super awesome cool. Gave me a bulkhead too. Awesome guy.

If you are ever in Warren, and you aren't afraid of DIY, you can call Laird plastics and give them dimensions and they will custom cut you any size acrylic. To be honest, I REALLY want a 40" long, 12" wide, and 15" tall sump. I will order it from them, and use weldon-3 to assemble it. This way, I can make EXACTLY what I want.

If you build a stand, do a stand from RC with NO center brace.. I HATE that my stand has a center brace in it.

[AZDesertRat]

I have a somewhat similar system, its a 100G 60" display with an internal overflow in which I installed a Stockman standpipe and the return is also 1" which I split into two 3/4" Loc Lines with fan nozzles close to the surface.

The return pump is an Ocean Runner 3500, I tried a Quiet One 4000 but it literally burned up on me. It ran hot from day one and had restart problems every time the power went off or I shut it off for maintenance. The OR 3500 is a much better pump as is the Eheim 1262 which would be my second choice.

I also had my tank drilled for a closed loop and use another OR3500 for the closed loop pump through and Oceans Motions Squirt two way out through 3/4" Loc Lines in the upper back corners. For additional circulation I use two of the new Koralia Evolution 1400's. They are amazing compared to the older K series, half the power consumption at only 6 measured watts each and about half the size of the Magnums but still deliver 1400 GPH. The nicest thing is they are controllable with any controller or even a timer and do not have restart or reverse problems like the Magnum or K series.

My sump is a 30G long AGA tank with 3 chambers, the sump is on one end, the skimmer and main overflow section are in the middle and the return section is on the other end via over-under-over baffles. The refugium is fed from a 1/2" brancing off the overflow then overflows into the center section.

This system has been in operation 6.5 years now and is chugging along nicely. I built the oak stand and canopy from scratch and all the lighting was retrofit and DIY using 2x250w MH and 2x140w VHO. It is now controlled by a Reefkeeper Lite which controls moonlights, calcium reactor, all pumps, powerheads on the wavemaker function, fans for cooling as I sold my chiller once I installed an autotopoff and fans, main lighting, and other things I don't even remember.