LED's

[Rabidgoose]

Well Jim and Andy have me thinking about LED's. The problem is I know less than nothing about them. I guess you can make a black molly look like a rainbow wrasse with them though.

I have a 130 gallon that is going to be an SPS tank. Their is a single brace on top right in the middle of the tank.
So figure 2 sections 33" length x 17" side x 22" water depth. The lights will be in a canopy and I can put them 12" above the water. I would like to mimic the color of Radiums and have them dimmable.

• Can this be done with 2 DIY fixtures?
• How many lights will I need for sufficient PAR and coverage per unit?
• What is a ballpark price for this conversion?

Some basic questions to get me going, I just put new bulbs in so I have a short year to decide if this is the route I want to take. Any input is appreciated. Trying to get my feet wet for now. Pictures and experiences are always welcome.

thanks.......chuck

[Chris]

I would guess with the 6" x 20" heat sinks rapidled.com offers you could get away with 2 DIY fixtures, but it may need to be supplimented w/ some t'5s still.

Also, I have seen places where you could actually buy a 5-6' heatsink if you wanted to.... little more money but not a ton and you could have a much greater spread and more room to add more LEDs if needed.

I am starting with 3- 24 LED 6x9 heatsinks on my 180g, underlit probably but I have planned to suppliment w/ t5 from the begining., but with my rock work it should do the job (as I have 3 "pilliars/ piles") t5s are mostly for filling in the gaps between heatsinks and added color spectrum (didn't get red led's, so I plan to run either purple+ or coral+ bulbs to get some of the red spectrum)

[Rabidgoose]

Originally Posted by chort55

I would guess with the 6" x 20" heat sinks rapidled.com offers you could get away with 2 DIY fixtures, but it may need to be supplimented w/ some t'5s still.

Also, I have seen places where you could actually buy a 5-6' heatsink if you wanted to.... little more money but not a ton and you could have a much greater spread and more room to add more LEDs if needed.

I am starting with 3- 24 LED 6x9 heatsinks on my 180g, underlit probably but I have planned to suppliment w/ t5 from the begining., but with my rock work it should do the job (as I have 3 "pilliars/ piles") t5s are mostly for filling in the gaps between heatsinks and added color spectrum (didn't get red led's, so I plan to run either purple+ or coral+ bulbs to get some of the red spectrum)

What are you keeping for corals? Your bracing divides your tank into 3 sections I gather.....I wish mine was like that.

[Chris]

Mostly sps, not much tho yet. But I dont have the leds yet either still waiting on the drivers and rails. But yeah mine is split into 3- 2'x2'x2' sections basically.

[binford4000]

Par is not an issue with LED's.In fact to much Par is the real issue.Two fixture's of that size should do fine.The choice of drivers and bulbs are more important and reflector angles if you decied to go that route or lenses that will intesidfy the ilght even more.The new cannons are very cost effective and do a nice job.Also the cost of AI's and other high end lights are comeing down allott.I have four AI's on my 150 and hoist a mix tank with about 20 sps pieces that are doing very well.

[Rabidgoose]

Originally Posted by binford4000

Par is not an issue with LED's.In fact to much Par is the real issue.Two fixture's of that size should do fine.The choice of drivers and bulbs are more important and reflector angles if you decied to go that route or lenses that will intesidfy the ilght even more.The new cannons are very cost effective and do a nice job.Also the cost of AI's and other high end lights are comeing down allott.I have four AI's on my 150 and hoist a mix tank with about 20 sps pieces that are doing very well.

Yeah, I have already learned that coverage and lens choice are important. Color is something that seems greatly debated so I am wondering about the solderless kits for ease of switching out LED's.

[binford4000]

I have heard good and bad things about the soderless units.I think the moduale method gives the best options for fine tuneing spectrum without to much rework.You shouldn't need to use t5's to fill the area's.I have a friend who used no lenses or reflectors and still has tons of par and there is no dark zones.See motorcityreefers tank thread for example.His diy lights are what I am speaking of.



IMHO any other type of lighting then LED's is a waste of time and money as you can tell.We have three sytems and all are lit by led's.If you acclimate your corals to led's and get the par levels correct.you will not regret the change.

[binford4000]

This is an example of the cannon style LED that can be built cheaply and has dimer capabities.It has one 20k chip with a full lens and is driven off a 100w dimable driver.It is only running at about 20 % and easily cover's a 36 inch long tank. Motorcity reefer built this one for me and it replaced an evolution LED 120w 20k unit with over 80 bulbs in it.Nothing wrong with the evo other then it was made non dimable and no need for high par for ray's.When this thing's turned all the way up it produeces over 500 par at the water line with it raised that high.The LED's of today totaly outperform the LED's of a few years ago .

[pjr]

that cannon is sick!

[jimsflies]

Originally Posted by binford4000

This is an example of the cannon style LED that can be built cheaply and has dimer capabities.It has one 20k chip with a full lens and is driven off a 100w dimable driver.It is only running at about 20 % and easily cover's a 36 inch long tank. Motorcity reefer built this one for me and it replaced an evolution LED 120w 20k unit with over 80 bulbs in it.Nothing wrong with the evo other then it was made non dimable and no need for high par for ray's.When this thing's turned all the way up it produeces over 500 par at the water line with it raised that high.The LED's of today totaly outperform the LED's of a few years ago .

This a DIY? More info please...maybe a new thread with info.