Well Mrs Binford is claiming the new R/O set up is alittle over kill.Of course I'm saying honey this is a normal set up! Everyone does it like this LOL.So here's the new set up,my dual add on di final stage filter hasn't come in yet! (she doesn't know about that yet) Personally haveing quality water is a must so while I was battleing evry pest known in the new tank I figured why not do an upgrade.I set up a 150 gpd with dual di's and added a booster pump that gives me 80 psi and installed a permate pump just because I had one and there's really no such thing as too much.I also added a new dual TDS meter
Here's some pics and looking foward to seeing what others are running out there
Let's see those toy's !!
Last edited by binford4000; 08-12-2011 at 08:59 PM.
That is not too much. I run triple sediment filters, two carbon, 75 gal pd membrane and a add on DI. Plus I have a dual TDS meter. I plan I adding a booster pump soon and pressure gauge. I agree having great water really helps.
This is the only pic I have for now-still waiting on my adapter and tubing-thanks Binford!!
Really?? If it doesn't show up soon LMK,I'll hook ya up,I should have just sent ya the adapter in the first place.Ice maker tube works just fine and only cost about 2.00 for 25 ft at Lowes
Here's Mine guys. This is by far the best the investment I have made for my tanks, I actually look forward to doing water changes now.
It's a 75gpd RO/DI Mixing station. The greatest thing about this mix station is that I have the supply hooked up to my well and the waist drains to my basement sump. (Not an aquarium sump) were it pumps back out to my lawn. So I have really no waste water and all I have to pay for is the power to pump the water from the well and salt!
It's plumbed so that the left bin fills with RO/DI water, then I can transfer that to the other bin where I add the salt and mix it together by recirculation the water in the bin. Both bins can be isolated from each other and/or the pump. I also set it up so I can either gravity feed the water in to small buckets for top offs and such, or you can do a super fast W/C by pumping the water to the tank's sump with this hose I made; it uses a PVC union fitting to connect to the mixing station.
I installed 2 float switches as well; one that shuts off the RO/DI unit when the bins are fill and the other shuts off the power to the Blue Line pump when the water level gets too low.
Sweet mixing station badfish,I like the way you tied right into the well.I got my add on di all hooked up so I'll update my pics.Keep em comeing so people get idea's if they're considering an RO or RO update.
You could make your system much more compact by mounting the booster pump on the top bracket, toss the two horizontal DI tubes and convert one of the vertical canisters to a real DI filter and I have a question on the permeate pump. Do you have a drinking water type pressure tank in the system somewhere too? If not the permeate pump serves no purpose since they rely solely on the backpressure in a bladder tank to drive the piston which is what saves waste water.
I have my booster pump and power supply mounted next to the membrane on the top bracket and my two dual inline TDS meters are mounted to the front of the bracket so its all nice and compact. http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/P...DLY/MC-UHE.pdf
I pump treated water into a 23 gallon Rubbermaid recycling can which fits nicely in a corner next to the hot water heater so its out of the way.
lionhead, running mucltiple sediment filters and carbon are often a bad thing and serve no purpose. The problem is every additional filter has an associated pressure or head loss through it so you are in essence starving the membrane of needed pressure. A single high quality sediment filter 1 micron or less and absolte rated instead of nominal rated and a single 0.5 or 0.6 micron 20,000 gallon chlorine guzzler type carbon block will serve you better.