AquaIllumination Vs. Maxspect G2-160W With PAR Measurements

[CalmSeasQuest]

(sorry for the poor quality photo, I've not yet recovered my DSL.)

I just purchased a Maxspect G2-160W and an Apogee MQ-200 PAR meter. It will take some time to get the tanks mapped and accurate measurements done (my son "borrowed" my SLR ) and to develop a standardized method of placing the sensor as it's very sensitive - any motion skews the results. But so far....WOW

I knew the AIs were PAR MONSTERS, but even so, I'm really impressed at the initial measurements. At 100%W / 100%B...

6" - 1650
12" - 1370 (water surface)
16" - 915 (4" water depth)
19" - 690 (7" water depth)
24" - 560 (12" water depth)

Strangely, I seem to measure about a 10% difference between the 2 AI units. I'll define further as my technique improves.

The MaxSpect G2-160W is hung 12" above the tank (same as the AIs for testing only - without optics, it has to be lowered.)

In the above photo, the two AI units (70W ea.) are running 100% Blue and 75% white. The Maxspect (G2-160W) is at 100% on all LEDS resulting in the following measurements...

At 12" (water surface)
AI - 1105
MXS - 350

Placing the sensor 6" directly below each light with both units at max output resulted in the following...

AI - 1650
MXS - 840

For a direct comparison to MH/T5, the Maxspect replaced a 150W Phoenix 14K running with 2 GM Actinic+ T5s, which generated about 650 PAR at the waterline with the lights about 3 1/2" above

Although the Maxspect "looks" much brighter, the AIs (even with the white LEDS reduced to 75%) are putting out far more PAR and the impact of the 40 degree optics are apparent.

What this means to anyone new to LEDS, especially AquaIllumination is be don't be fooled by appearances. You cannot compare "by looks" the output of T5 or MH to LED as they are far from PAR equivalent. If you try, you will surely cook your livestock. (been there, done that.)

I'll take more measurements and photos as soon as I get my camera back.

**These measurements are probably +-10% as I haven't yet perfected a standardized way to hold the sensor. All lights are hung 12" above water surface. AI measurements taken directly under one AI 70W. Maxspect measurements taken directly under center of fixture with the MQ-200 set to Sun setting. The below-water AI measurements are likely skewed high from light from the adjacent (5" apart) AI unit. I left both on as this likely represents actual usage (multiple units.) Those with more than 2 units would have higher readings with light from 2nd adjacent unit.

[CalmSeasQuest]

At higher power settings the AI's are far less blue than the G2. As a result of the color, and the fact the AI's put out much more PAR than I need - I set the AI controller so it gradually ramps up to the higher white setting (max 75%) during mid day (11:00-13:00) when for the most part, the tank is not being viewed and is back in the 20K+ range in the morning/evening peak viewing hours. Even at the lower white settings - the AIs still put out significantly more PAR than the G2s even at 100% (At 6", the AI blues LEDS alone put out 710 PAR.)

Here's perhaps a better color comparison...



This photo shows the MXS at 100% on all LEDS and the AIs at 44% white / 100% blue. At these settings, measuring 7" below each light - The AI puts out about 1425 PAR and the MXS about 700 PAR.

IMO, the light on both tanks is stunning and a vast improvement over the MH/T5s they replaced.

[CalmSeasQuest]

There's been a lot of discussion about Crees vs. Semi-LEDS so I wanted to see if I could create an example of equal PAR and color (as close as possible) between the AquaIllumination (Cree powered) and Maxspect (Semi-LED powered.)



In this photo, the G2 is running all of it's blue and violet LEDS at full power (14 Blue + 4 Violet = 18 LEDS @ 3watts = 54 Watts.)

The AIs are running all of their blues at 25% power (16 @ 3 watts = 48 Watts X 25% = 12 Watts)

At these settings, both are covering the same 24" of tank and are generating the same 190 PAR measured 6" directly below the center of each lights (note - the results were the same with second AI unit turned off so no light bled into the test.) The impact of the optics on the AIs is apparent.

As for the color, it's difficult to show blues in a photo (especially from a cell camera), the Maxspect Semi-LEDS have a distinct purple hue to hem. They also *appear* brighter, but much of this is a result of the reflection from the top of the water and light being spilled on the walls (the Maxspect is 7" above the tank but can't be lowered any further as it is at the limits of the hanging kit.)

[CalmSeasQuest]

Choosing between these two platforms is tough as they represent very different approaches to LED lighting. Here are my observations on the pluses/minus directly comparing the AIs and G2...

AquaIllumination

Pros
+ Cree Powered - MASSIVE PAR availability with 10+ year bulb life.
+ Very good ramping controller - Sunrise/sunsets, mid-day PAR increases, vary blue and white output individually in 1% increments, full Lunar cycles with intensity.
+ Blue instead of Royal Blue - Provides "crisp" blue rather than the purple/violet appearance of the SemiLED Royal blues (subjective.)
+ 40 Degree Optics - Allows you to adjust coverage, appearance and PAR by changing the height with little or no light spillage.
+ US Made with phenomenal support.
+ Controller Interface - Profilux (and about to be released Neptune Apex) controller interface provides controller integration enabling advanced options such as clouds, thunderstorms...

Cons
- Initial acquisition costs.
- Tight optics limit coverage if placed in a hood or mounted just above a tank.
- At higher output levels (>80% whites) the color is less blue than some prefer.
- At the time this was written, there is a waiting list for purchase.

G2

Pros
+ Inexpensive (especially in relation to the AIs')
+ No optics provide a greater coverage area if surface mounted
+ User replaceable SimiLEDS allow you to interchange individual white/blue/ violet LEDS to create custom color combinations.
+ Royal blues provide more "pop" when on by themselves (subjective.)
+ Built-in timer provides 3 channels of on/off scheduling for blue/violets, 3w whites and 30w whites.
+ Built in moonlight LEDS (on/off only - turn on when main LEDS turn off.)

Cons
- Lack of optics limits elevation options (much light spillage.)
- Less PAR than Crees powered lights (but still much more than MH/T5.)
- Color of SemiLED Royal blues has an overt purple/violet cast. This is especially noticeable when only the blues are on (subjective.)
- Rail kit blocks light from being evenly distributed
- 30W whites are much less blue than purported by the Mfg.
- No controller integration currently available or reported to be forthcoming
- Chinese made, no US based support at present. Any warranty or repair requires return shipping to China.
- Some initial quality concerns - There have been reports of some manufacturing concerns including issues such as DOAs, loose electrical connections in the timer box, LEDS mounted with little/poor thermal protection, bent rails or cooling fins. Although so far, it seems Maxspect has done a very good job of handling support and warranty repair (again subjective and based on RC posts as I have had no warranty issues.)

Notes- There was discussion about a Cree upgrade being available for the G2. I've seen contradicting comments regarding this, and have not seen any posts from a Cree based G2 owner. If available (and depending on the upgrade costs) this might be an viable option. Please remember, these are my personal observations based on owning the AIs and G2 and having them installed on side-by-side tanks. Much of this is subjective (especially comments pertaining to color output.) You're mileage will obviously vary

[CalmSeasQuest]

I just completed upgrades of my AI SOl White (W/W/B) pucks to the SOL Blue (W/B/RB). Please excuse the current condition of the tank - It's been more of a test tank than display tank for the past year with lot's of LED and carbon dosing testing (including the 2 significant over PAR/photo-inhibition events detailed earlier in this thread...


*Note - the 24" and 30" measurements are slightly occluded by aquascape and offset about 6" toward the front of the tank. Perhaps the most interesting find was the SOl Blues delivered slightly more PAR at depth. I can only guess this is due to better penetration of the blue spectrum.


SOL White = 0% white, 100% blue vs. SOL Blue = 0% Blue, 100% white.


SOL White = 100% white, 0% blue vs. SOL Blue = 100% Blue, 0% white.


All AIs at 100% compared to Maxspect G2-160 at 100%


SOL White = 0% white, 100% blue vs. SOL Blue = 0% Blue, 100% white with G2 for comparison.


SOL White = 100% white, 0% blue vs. SOL Blue = 100% Blue, 0% white with G2 for comparison.


100% blue output of 2X SOL Blue units - It's nearly impossible to show the "pop" of these, the color is far more intense than shown in the photo. You can also tell how purple in appearance the Semi-LED Royal Blues are in the G2.

I took photos and PAR measurements at other power settings, but it's difficult to distinguish much difference in the photos. The PAR falloff at lesser power settings was mostly linear (50% power yielded about 50% of the reported PAR.) Measurements taken using an Apogee MQ-200 with the electric light settings. Due to variations in measurement accuracy (i.e. hand shake , slight rotation of sensor, rough water surface...) I'd estimate the margin of error at plus/minus ~5%

[jimsflies]

Great information!

[Myteemouse]

WOW sweet write up Very good info I knew the AI were the best you could buy on the market today,,, this just proves it!

[CalmSeasQuest]

Since acquiring Aquaillumination LEDs in late 2009, I've been working on recovering from the multiple bleaching events caused by my ignorance of how PAR efficient LEDS are. As my tanks slowly recovered, I turned my attention to developing the best pigmentation/coloration. Many, including myself had come to the determination that while LEDS can grow just about anything, there was an argument that some coloration was lost in the change from MH or T5.

Over the past few years, their has been much experimentation with UV and near UV, and colors higher up the spectrum including cyan and red. The most recent trend is to simply include all available colors, often producing the dreaded disco-ball effect. In late 2010 I added a couple of 403nm Stunner strips to my SOL Blue AIs, and did notice a slight improvement in reflective coloration (yellows and golds popped a bit more) but they provided no change in coral pigmentation - it was clear something was still missing when compared to the coloration achieved under other lighting schemes.

The only remaining part of the spectrum I hadn't yet tried was red as I had read many studies that red was likely not the answer to our coloration quest and in fact it could stunt coral growth. Sanjay's most recent LED spectral analysis convinced me that it was worth a shot - so I added a couple of Magenta Stunner strips to the 403nm units already augmenting my AIs...



As of the time this was written, the 12 watts of Magenta have been in place for less than an hour. While I have no indication as to long term impact on coral pigmentation or growth rates, I can report that the tank simply "looks" better, presenting some of the subtle hues associated with the Fiji Purple T5 bulbs. When compared to the Frag tank sitting beside the DT which is illuminated by a Maxspect G2, the frag tank looks cold and flat.

Time will tell but at the moment, I'm most pleased with the latest 12 watt addition

[redemer123]

where might one acquire these magenta strips? I like them, also, fantastic thread

[CalmSeasQuest]

where might one acquire these magenta strips? I like them, also, fantastic thread

Many retailers carry the Ecoxotic Stunner Strips - I purchased the LEDs, reflector strips and a dimmer through Premium Aquatics.

Do you have a pic of the tank with the magenta strips in place, wondering how that looks in comparison to the w/o pics. I am soon switching to leds and been wondering about how I will add the reds (as the kit I am installing doesn't have them). Maybe something like this, or just keep a few t5 bulbs on the tank w/ either purple plus or maybe the new coral+ bulb

I left My DSLR is at my office for use on the Desktop build - I'll have to grab photos later. My first impression of adding the magenta was very positive - it reminds me quite a bit of a Fiji Purple T5. I am going to have the red turned off during the sunrise and sunset cycles as it quickly overpowers the 403nm and Royal Blues at lower power settings.