[Timezone Detection]
Create Account - Join in Seconds!

User Name: Email Address:
Human Verification

Please enter the six letters or digits that appear in the image opposite.

Failing @ Fish


Bookmark and Share
Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last
Results 1 to 10 of 15
  1. #1
    CR Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    64

    Default Failing @ Fish

    So that makes 3 total bartlett's anthias that have now 'disappeared' in my tank, got another on Saturday and haven't seen him in my tank since I put him in and he slid into the rockwork.

    The leopard wrasse that I got on Saturday as well buried himself, but I'm not too worried about him, yet and I am patting myself on the back resisting the temptation to dig him out/unbury him (I know where he went into the sand at) to make sure he's still alive -- I don't want to stress him out more ... I know they can remain buried for awhile but this one was swimming around @ RP for awhile and doing good, so I'm hoping he makes the adjustment.

    But, I can't figure out what is going on.

    The fish that -have- survived are fish that I acclimated straight in the bag, my two clownfish & orange spot goby. After that, I started using a 3 gallon bucket. This is a bucket I bought specifically for tank use, and I use it to do my water changes, and filter sock changes. I am using a slow-drip method to acclimate the fish, 1-2 drops per second, for about 40 minutes until water volume is about doubled. I have lights off in the room, and turn lights off in the tank. Water parameters are all good. I know that fish can be finicky, but it's not just the cash loss for me - I hate being responsible for something that awesome dying, too ...

    Not sure what, if anything I'm doing wrong, or if I'm just having bad luck with the Anthias ... this last I got had been at RP for well over a week and was doing great. The other two I chalked up to stress from being acclimated/moved so much in a short period of time.

    Any ideas/suggestions? Should I let them acclimate for an hour+? Could the fact I have a bit of trouble catching them with a square net in a round bucket be part of it? Should I get a acclimation only bucket?

  2. #2
    CR Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    64

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris View Post
    If you have trouble catching them in the bucket you need a bigger net.... I use an 8" net like the one Andy uses to catch most fish. Don't chase them around in a bucket, you could easily be stressing or damaging them doing this. Also it is very likely that the established bartlett is knocking off the smaller ones.

    NEVER EVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE try to go into the sand after the leopard......EVER. They can hide for up to 2 weeks (or longer even) and it is not overly uncommon. Also, coming from different parts of the world they take time to adjust to most tanks light periods and may be coming out and you not even know it.
    Yeah, I figured going after the leopard would be a Bad Idea <tm>.Which is why I haven't done it. But thanks for the rather strong affirmation. I've seen enough posts online where it states that they can just show up in a few days, 2-3 weeks, I was just more hoping since he was acclimated to an aquarium already, I wouldn't have to go through that transition. But I'll wait it out ... and I'll be watching the tank a lot, tomorrow as it's the first day off I've had since Sunday. It'd please me greatly if he is coming out, even if only for short periods. I'll grab me a bigger net, too. Whatever I can control, to help the fish succeed/get transitioned easily, I'll do.

    I never liked losing freshwater fish, either, and they're not $40 a fish. I'm too much of a naturist to not feel some guilt ...

  3. #3
    jimsflies - Reefkeeper
    Admin/Founder

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    11,467
    First Name
    Jim

    Default

    Sorry to hear about the anthias. On the drip, I generally start out slow 2-3 drops a second and speed it up to a steady flow toward the end of the process. I feel like for some species a long drip is overkill and may do as much harm as good. From a scientific standpoint, you want the temp and pH to be the same. Once they are, the acclimation is done. 40 minutes doesn't sound like too long of a time to go.

    This is not exactly by the book, but I brought some fish home the other night (from a system that has no copper), I floated them for 15 minutes. Then I cut the end of the bag open and allowed them to "self acclimate". They stayed in the bag for about 10 minutes, they gradually moved toward the opening, and then swam out on their own. I assume the way I did it, there was mostly bagged water at the end, and a mix zone in near the opening. Obviously this is only an option if you 100% know the water in the bag doesn't have copper or other chemicals. I felt like this was a low stress way of acclimating though. (Your mileage may vary depending on situation and species.)

    I also agree that chasing the fish with a net in the bucket isn't ideal. I would do this in a darker room where they can't see quite as well. Also maybe have a second bucket and pour the water out so they are easier to catch...or poor it all into a big net and the fish will automatically be in the net. Also, I think adding fish to a dimly lit tank and leaving lights on low for the rest of the day is not a bad idea either.

    Is there any chance you have something snacking on them in your tank?

  4. #4
    CR Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    64

    Default

    Chris, I ended up getting the multi-colored leopard that was in the Zoa-coral tank at RP, it's been there probably a month at least.

    Jim, I don't have any predators, and most of my rock was dry, that LR that I got was all from RP so I'm pretty sure nothing bad came in on that that I've not seen in the tank. I might try using two buckets, as well with a net. I trust all the water at RP, so I might be willing to try floating and cutting as well. Clearly what I'm doing is at least stressing the fish to some degree.

  5. #5
    CR Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    64

    Default

    2 Ornates made it. Someone bought one of them, I bought the last. And I'll ask him, but yes, that would be rather bad, agreed. Thanks for the tip.

    I'm sure Andy will be ordering more soon. And that black leopard still might pop his head out in the large coral tank, who knows ...

  6. #6
    demonclownfish - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Chatbox Menace

    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    ortonville
    Posts
    1,252
    Awards Monthly Giveaway Winner

    Default

    I wanted that ornate, that sucker was out and swimmin the whole time i was there

  7. #7
    pinhigh1886 - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Brighton, MI
    Posts
    219
    First Name
    John

    Default

    Chris he had the leopards in the Zoa tank last time. No copper in there obviously but there could be where the Anthias are usually. Danroth are you just getting (1) Anthias. They do better in sets of (3). (1) is better than (2) but (3) best. I have purchased fish from Andy and only had one die due to a crash when I was on vacation. For what it is worth I float all of my fish for 15 mins when I first get them. Then I open the bag while still floating and use a kids medicine dropper to add water slowly over 45 mins to an hour. I then take a big net and drape it over a bucket and pour the bag and fish into the net. I then immediately lay the net in the tank and turn it slowly. I let the fish swim out at its own time. IMO I would not turn out the lights in the tank unless other fish are picking on it. The first few hours should be lit so the fish can find a good place to hide and sleep that hasn't already been taken by other fish. I would though keep the action around the tank to a minimum and watch from a distance. I just pick up a Labouti Wrasse from Andy. It took us 1 hour of chasing it and removing all the coral and rock from that tank to the right. It was so stressed out. Using the method above I dropped him in the tank. He was immediately beat up by my Leopard Wrasse, and Orange Back Fairy Wrasse. I did turn the lights out because of the fighting and he is great now. What I am saying is I don't think it is the netting in the bucket stress is what is killing it!

  8. #8
    pinhigh1886 - Reefkeeper CR Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Brighton, MI
    Posts
    219
    First Name
    John

    Default

    LOL - I know you know that the coral tanks are more stable so he puts the more expensive fish in there. And I 100% agree that keeping other tanks water out of yours is best I was just saying that if some water was to get in it would be better if it was from the coral tanks and not the fish only tanks. Anyway I digress, I am preaching to the choir

    I also do not quarantine. I recommend people do if possible but I have had no luck with a QT tank. I tried (4) different times to set one up over the 12 years I did FOWLR and every single time the fish died in QT. I think it was the stability of the tank but as soon as I just acclimated them to the DT I never lost another fish. People get mad at me but I was tired of killing fish!! I am setting up a frag tank though and feel it will be much more stable. Can you quarantine fish in a FT?

    Is that the majority recommendation about lights out when new fish added? I know fish use other senses but can not see in total darkness. IMO it seems scary to be dropped into a new place and be completely blind to what might jump out and eat you LOL. Do you go totally dark or some ambient lighting?

  9. #9
    jimsflies - Reefkeeper
    Admin/Founder

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    11,467
    First Name
    Jim

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pinhigh1886 View Post
    Can you quarantine fish in a FT?

    Is that the majority recommendation about lights out when new fish added? I know fish use other senses but can not see in total darkness. IMO it seems scary to be dropped into a new place and be completely blind to what might jump out and eat you LOL. Do you go totally dark or some ambient lighting?
    I agree a traditional QT tank can be hard on some fish. Yes, a frag tank would be an okay QT tank. If it is connected to the main tank it may pose some risk to the other fish, but would think a bit less of a risk...and it would likely be easier to observe the new fish for a week or two. Still would need hiding places so they can relieve some stress and may need substrate depending on the fish.

    Some ambient light would be okay. The idea is to dial the existing fish down so they are less likely immediately attack the new fish. This gives the new fish a chance to find a place to hide for awhile.

    Also from a new fish standpoint, keeping them in a dimmer environment seems to help them relax and be a little less stressed. I think larger fish would benefit most from a lights out scenario. The larger a fish is, I think the more susceptible it is to becoming over stressed. (Maybe I base this on my fishing experiences... catching and releasing a large fish after a long battle tends to be harder than with a small fish.)

  10. #10
    CR Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    64

    Default

    Well, originally I got 3 Bartlett's. What happened was 1 immediately went and hid. 2 stayed out and were out all night.When I got up next day, all 3 were out. Then, later on that afternoon, only 2. And, next day, only 1 was out, but a 2nd came out to feed. Following day, ... 1 only. And only 1, since then. When I added the 2nd, I haven't seen him since I put him in the tank.

    I've always read that you turn the lights off when adding a new fish, to help the other fish accept/acclimate and to reduce stress for the new fish. The lighting system I have (Radions) even have a 'mode' to accomodate this.

    I'm using something close to what Andy uses at his store to acclimate; a thin plastic tubing with an adjustable drip rate on it.

    I appreciate all the help/ideas. And, hopefully this thread will help other people to prevent the same issue.

    Also, ... I saw my Leopard Wrasse, just now. For all of 1.5 seconds. I was walking into my room to go dose, and saw him swimming around, he saw me, and went for the sand. He must still be acclimating some. I know he's seen people before. But at least I know he's in there, and okay now. Now just to get him to stay out, so he can feed ... though he might be picking some on my pods on the rocks, I heard they do that, too. ...

    (Edit)
    He's coming out more, now. Very interesting/beautiful, the way he swims, gliding with the water current in a way like a bird will on air currents, then darting into a rock. Fed some RP mix food to the tank, he was hidden most of the time but came out afterwards, and saw him nipping at the gravel a bit, ... I think he's going to be fine. Very happy
    Last edited by Danroth; 02-27-2013 at 10:52 AM.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

About CaptiveReefs

    If you are interested in learning about reefkeeping or have a problem with your reef, our reefkeeping community is here to help. Feel free to ask a question or search our site. We have lots of experienced reefkeepers that are willing to provide free reefkeeping advice!

    Besides being a great resource for all levels of reef aquarium hobbyists, CaptiveReefs is a social experience that will enhance your enjoyment of reefkeeping. CaptiveReefs is committed to connecting reefkeepers with the support and information they need to grow beautiful coral reef aquariums.

Information

Connect with Us