125 rimless

[CalmSeasQuest]

I need some help setting up my kalkreactor if anybody has any advice to offer me. Right now I am just dripping it in with a valve but it either fills the refugium up to quickly or doesn't keep my pH where I want it.

I am also having an issue with my drain. I put a valve inline to slow the decent of the water since its falling 10 feet but it seems to fill my filter socks up and it spills over the top of them. The refugium is setup for a dual drain. I added a T and split the line into both drains however it does the same thing for both sock filters. I have played with the valve and I am at my threshold where if I close the valve anymore my pump will return the water faster than the overflow can drain. Any help would be appreciated. I am a total noob to saltwater tanks in general so if you see something that seems weird let me know I like to learn.

Beautiful setup!

As for your questions - Don't use your Kalk to chase pH. Set your drip rate to match your top-off needs and watch your Ca and Alk (you can drip Kalk only at night to support pH and counteract the diurnal swings.) Restricting the output with a valve will be problematic as the valve will clog with mineral deposits changing the drip rate and requiring more maintenance. A better solution is an ATO (I use an Osmolator.) You can also separate your ATO from your Kalk and use a peristaltic pump (BRS pumps are great) controlled by your Apex for dosing Kalk - Lots of options.

As for the drain - It's generally NOT a good idea to place any restriction on the drain side. Instead, place a valve on the feed side to slow your overflows to the desired flow rates. If more flow is needed in the tank, use power heads - although it looks like you've got plenty of flow.

Good luck - you're off to a great start

[rcombs]

my favorite part of this tank is the lighting system that you have set up. +1 i like.

[Badfish]

Hey how is your tank coming Joe? Any updates or Pics?

[jfsedlar3rd]

Progress, it has been really fun getting everything tweaked just right. Being the perfectionist I am this is an ongoing battle. Keep in mind I am a total amateur, this is only my second reef system ever and I am only around a year into the hobby. If you see something funky feel free to help me out

[ReefWerks]

Very slick...well done!

[DereksReef]

Wonderfully designed and executed! This is a magnificent reef tank. Most of us need years to accomplish a tank that really pops like that. It would appear that you did your homework, and did it well.

The lights really caught my eye. Please keep us updated with plenty of pictures, and additions!

[jfsedlar3rd]

I added a few more light modules to my Maxspect Mazzara system. Instead of having one controller for all the modules I opted to have two controllers that each control three. It gives me more versatility with my light timing and spectrum.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Beautiful!

Wow, 720 Watts of LED - That's a TON of light / PAR over a 125.

[jfsedlar3rd]

Beautiful!

Wow, 720 Watts of LED - That's a TON of light / PAR over a 125.

I need to acquire a par meter next.I was told there not as accurate for LEDs but I figure it will give me some sort of idea anyway. The nice thing is I can dial them way down if need be. Maxspect sells different wavelengths other than the factory colors so I may through some reds and other colors in there just for fun.

[CalmSeasQuest]

I need to acquire a par meter next.I was told there not as accurate for LEDs but I figure it will give me some sort of idea anyway. The nice thing is I can dial them way down if need be. Maxspect sells different wavelengths other than the factory colors so I may through some reds and other colors in there just for fun.

Are you running these near full output? I'd be very careful and watch for signs of bleaching, (I've spent the last 2 years killing corals with LEDs )

PAR meters under-measure light in the very blue spectrum - depending on the amount of blue close to ~20%. More importantly, because LEDS are very efficient at producing PAR, they will appear much dimmer than T5s or MHs at equal PAR. At equal "appearing" brightness, the LEDs are putting out significantly more PAR. For reference, here are PAR measurements from my 2 AIs (these are only 70W each, compared to your 120W.) These photos were taken while I was in the middle of upgrading from the SOl White, to SOL Blue emitters - hence the different coloration and PAR output.



This is the overwhelming reason so many that initially adopt LEDs report very poor initial results and lack of coloration.

I use a Maxspect G2 over my FT. I've replaced many of the stock emitters on the G2 with Cree and played a bit with coloration and optics as well.

I'd loan you my PAR meter, but you're a ways away.