Wondering if I should go reef or fish only , connected to my main reef sump. Any ideas?
I was at the local aquarium store in Green bay where I grew up, and the owner was nice enough to let these tanks go for $100. What a steal. So since they are from the 80's the 27 and 1/2 square tanks needed to be re-siliconed. Well, thats what I did for a living on the boats! So I am too excited. Like most of my thoughts lead to huge trouble with my girlfriend $$$, I have to be careful here peoples. So I am deciding, since it is operable from my main 120 sump, and PVC run all the way back to the drain to sump - do I go fish or reef. I would love to go reef but what about all those nice reef-eaters that I could now have. Any suggestions? What benefits would either or have on my reef. Of course - the larger water volume is my benefit. I protected each waterfall with plastic foodsafe netting. A goby couldn't get through.
What I wouldn't give to have half a room like that~you must feel like your in heaven when your down there~that's where I would put the couch
what you have to do is loe your mind - then the exuse is "therapy". The couch is on the other side - but unfortunately I have been busy each time I go down there working on the silicone or odds and ends. Perhaps there will be a time to relax - but for now it's trying to get this running. My friend is trying to talk me into ORP. Do you think a system needs that? Thanks for the compliment. I kind of took the basement over since the barn is the horses. My firebird lost that area, so I won the battle for the basement
Picked up my 14K HQI bulb and 150LBS of High Calcium Limestone Baserock. Wondering if I should run actinic - so picked up a ballast and a 96W actinic power compact. Ready to do a final cleaning of the tanks, and wash of rocks. Also picked up 120 Lbs of crushed coral and sand. I think after I get everything arranged it is going to take a couple days to fill this system with RO-DI water. Then making sure all the temp readings come out and refractometer is reading the correct gravity - I'll start the system from my main sump. I have another 300 W heater so it will be a challenge to heat each tank to 78 degrees before I kick the system on. I wonder if that HQI is going to be enough light. It looks like it will, but I will judge that after I start the system. I was originally going mostly fis for this application, some triggers, perhaps an Amperor Angel in the first 90 waterfall cube. Any tips from anyone before I start would be helpful - and thank you.
My main system is a 120 gallon reef ready system. It has (2) 250W 13K Metal Halides and (2) 96W Dual Actinic Power Compacts. The 120 has a model 4 sump and submersible pump returns. The waterfall is designed with PVC out via external Coralife Turbo pump , and has not operated yet as plans to start this weekend are underway. The reef is 7 years old and houses many corals I have had just as long. The tank is also branched into 3 sections. From the sump, I have a line going directlt right of the main tank. the branch from my sump goes direct to refugium 1. This lower refugium is fed and water returns via gravity again to the sump. The top refugium draws water from the bottom and returns the water after a skimmer and the water returns via gravity with the lower refugium. Sort of double refugium action. The refugium stand built at Carver yachts on my time after work also has a water resistant area in case of extreme spill , that is siliconed tight and water run off ducts that hold my ballasts and electrical in the cabinet beneath. If I were to purposely overflow my refugiums, water would follow a trail on the floor and remain out of the electrical area. On the far lef, 2 different areas operate. The first is a 20G reservoir. This area is just a feed to area for water that returns via gravity to the main tank. A "tap into" area. I knew that I needed more area for my components, so this area is drilled for a quick shut off and connect/disconnect of my canister filter. The 2 holes are drilled and makes it easy to connect and disconnect. As well I run my Hydor Performer Skimmer , as well as Calcium Reactor in this area. Th U/V Sterilizer is in action there , as well as an emergency heater set to 76 in the event my main heater fails. My pinpoint Ph monitor is behind in this area , as well as CO2 tank. Directly in front of this res is another 20 gallon that is on the same stand, making the tanks look like a square. The front tank is a RO-DI Reservoir. My RO-DI unit constantly runs and is shut off with a float switch. When this tank fills it shuts off. Easy to steal R/O when needed , and my auto top-off unit operates here with a probe in the sump. I use a aqua-medic IV pump style to pump water in as it evaporates. Specific Gravity is always for the most part anyway - on the marker. Many small gadgets here and there , pumps etc., make for the investment. It has been a rough road before the basement in this schoolhouse. this eliminated the need for the chiller that always seemed to under par. I hold at 78, 78.5- 77.5. Really never see any fluctuation worse than that. I run (2) 300W heaters, and that seems to do the job. Well that's a little about my system. My friend , the owner of Advanced Aquariums whom I have been working on this system with is talking to me about ORP. Does anyone think this system demans that. What are the pros and cons? Any suggestions because I am full steam ahead on kicking the waterfall in, starting to wash and get everything ready tomorrow (Today). Good luck and happy sailing fellow reefers
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