I will definitely second the suggestion of more rock. You could also check Craig's List - often times you can find someone very nearby that is selling off their live rock. You could also just buy base rock for a lot less $ ... the LR you already had will "seed" it, and before you know it it'll all be live! :)
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12-02-2007, 02:47 PMPost #1: Sweetpea
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12-02-2007, 04:21 PMPost #2: TomL
Thanks Sweetpea. I was unsure about the rock, the LFS tells me that its impossible to create live rock. He explained to me that no matter how much i try to make it "LIVE" it will always be base rock with just some bacteria on it but not the same. Idk who to belive sometimes, everybody tells me diff. Aquariums are not my specialty but i am trying to learn as much as i can with some of the extra time i have. I do have a whole 5g bucket full of some base rock. It was used in my freshwater for 4-5yrs. I can take some pics to show it and see if it will be okay or not. How long will this process take to see the baserock and turn it to liverock? We talking months, or years. Will i have to stack the LR on top of the baserock. Right now 3 peices in my tank are base rock with LR on top of it, if i add new base rock can i move the LR on top of that for a while. I went to the LFS and picked out a piece of rock and he want 110 for just 1 piece, i told him he was crazy and put it back in the tank, i didnt spend 110 for everything you see in my tank. He gave me this line of crap that it gets air delievered direct from fiji every wed. Maybe so but imo 10lb for a rock, someone is laughing under the breath :). I think the idea about some clubs...etc is a good route to go
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12-02-2007, 04:46 PMPost #3: melev
If you see microbubbles in the return section of your sump, it'll pump these into the display tank. The best way to avoid microbubbles in the return section is to have a longer sump (more travel time) and to use a return pump that moves 3x to 5x the volume of the display.
If the display tank is 100g, the return pump would push 300 to 500gph. The flow in the display should be created with another source, such as powerheads, a closed loop, or stream pumps. -
12-02-2007, 05:42 PMPost #4: TomL
hmm, i figured a longer sump was the answer, i didnt know if anyone had any good ideas on how to deal with the problem at the source (such as when it flows into the sump). Right now i have my return line all the way down to the bottom of the sump, i was reading on the net that someone cut there pipe so it was only .75" below the water line, instead of completely submerged. Sounds like it wouldnt work but i was curious if anyone has tried this. If i could get a constant flow in the return line i would not have this problem. Maybe if i totaly remove the return line from the sumps water, so it is above the water line. With all these microbubbles comes alot of foam too.
Melev, any ideas off the top of your head, other then me building another sump. -
12-02-2007, 09:28 PMPost #5: SweetpeaYou're right on the money with that one! That's why you ask questions and keep on asking them!Quote:
Originally Posted by TomL
Live rock is live as a result of the "little critters" on it. The rock itself is not alive at all. The nitrifying bacteria, sponges, pods, etc. on/in the rock help process nutrients, enabling the rock to act as a natural filter for your tank. That life spreads to the base rock, making it "live". As for how long the process takes, it really depends... the amount of life on your rock will affect the time-line, as will the ratio of live vs. base rock.Quote:
Originally Posted by TomL
How much rock do you need? The general rule of thumb is 1-2 lbs. per gallon, but that really depends on the rock. A porous rock could be much larger in size and surface area (for those desirable "little critters") and fill up your tank in fewer pounds than a denser rock. Your good judgement and eye for appeal will help you out greatly in this area!
HTH!!! :) -
12-02-2007, 09:30 PMPost #6: Sweetpea
BTW, I would definitely put your base rock on the bottom... no need to have your prize pieces of rock sinking under the sand! ;)
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12-02-2007, 10:30 PMPost #7: Sea~Horse~Whisperer
Try marco rocks for some dry rock. It the BEST out there. I have used it in my last 4 tanks and have been very very happy with it. You can't buy live rock that looks this nice. It will become live in no time, especially if you seed it with pods and stuff.
PLUS....since it had tons of holes in it and it's been dry for a long time, you get twice the rock for 1/2 the price. You have to see it to believe it. -
12-02-2007, 11:05 PMPost #8: melev
If you install a bubble tower in the sump, you can reduce the microbubbles at the source. Here's what I'm talking about:
http://melevsreef.com/plumbing/bubble_tower.jpg
Base rock can take up to 6 months to become live rock, to the point of being part of the natural filtration of the tank. Considering that you have anemones already in your tank at 3 months, it would be best to use only fully cured LR now. Baserock can be used in the beginning, especially for those hobbyists that are very slow to add livestock. The tank has to be able to handle the bioload, and baserock will do nothing for the animals you have now.
Fully cured LR will smell clean and somewhat salty. There should be no odor at all, especially a foul odor. If you are going to the LFS to buy rock, bring a bucket with you and have them put your new rock in the bucket and add water so that it remains submerged on the way home. That will avoid any cycling so the rock is safe to add to the tank. -
12-03-2007, 11:08 AMPost #9: TomL
thanks for the updates. I will try creating some sort of bubble tower. I wish i did something along those lines before i started the sump. I do not want to turn it of now, my fish and corals have had alot of stress the last week with my getting it going. The sump is getting alot of green buildup along the water line. I think it is the protiens cause i am still waiting on my skimmer.
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12-03-2007, 05:31 PMPost #10: melev
You can wipe away the build up with a sponge.
A simple bubble tower that I recommend is to get a loaf of bread holder. Stand it up on end, and drill a bunch of 1/2" holes around the base. Fill it up with LR rubble no higher than the water line it will be placed in.
Drill the lid so that your plumbing fits in it. Place the bubble tower in the sump, and insert the plumbing through the lid. The plumbing should be submerged 1/2" to 1" deep. Don't seal the lid tight, as you need air to be able to exit.
The lid will muffle any sound, and keep salt creep inside the container.