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Reef Octopus water blaster HY-5000 and HY-3000


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  1. #1
    larryandlaura - Reefkeeper
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    Default Reef Octopus water blaster HY-5000 and HY-3000

    I've had the water blaster HY-5000 for over 6 months now. It's very quite and breaks down very easily for cleaning. Water blasters can be ran internal or exteral for more options. They pumps are very energy efficient and have a huge output for the wattage. I recently got the HY-3000 for a second pump to my frag tank. Smaller but powerful. I highly recommend these pumps for the price, qualit, and warranty. They also make a bubble blaster series for skimmers. Both models where designed after the red dragon pumps. They feature the silicone nitride shfts and bearings so calcium dosn't adhere. They also feature a smart circuit board that will shut the pump off if it detects a problem.
    Hi my name is Larry and I'm a coral addict!
    Likes bravo2, AJ :) liked this post

  2. #2
    binford4000 - Reefkeeper
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    DITTO,love these pumps,cost alittle more then the mag's but what a diffrence.We have them on all our systems now.They run quite and cool and the hyd 5000 is comparable to a mag 12 for gph and only use's 60 watts if memory serve's me correct.Awsome pumps
    Likes bravo2 liked this post

  3. #3
    larryandlaura - Reefkeeper
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    Quote Originally Posted by binford4000 View Post
    DITTO,love these pumps,cost alittle more then the mag's but what a diffrence.We have them on all our systems now.They run quite and cool and the hyd 5000 is comparable to a mag 12 for gph and only use's 60 watts if memory serve's me correct.Awsome pumps
    You are correct 1300gph at 60 watts.
    Hi my name is Larry and I'm a coral addict!
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  4. #4
    AZDesertRat - Reefkeeper
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    Have either of you used a Kill A Watt meter to see how accurate the advertised wattage numbers are? I am considering swapping an Ocean Runner 3500 which is rated at 900 GPH at 65 watts. In my testing with a Kill A Watt meter, open discharge or 0 head it actually draws about 58 watts and in my system with approx 4 feet of head loss it is drawing 53 watts on the meter.

    I am thinking about the HY5000 model to gain a bit of flow and maybe split the output to run a couple small Phosban and carbon reactors and my calcium reactor. This way I could eliminate 2 or 3 small powerheads powering those other components and clean the plumbing under the stand up a little while maybe reducing the power consumption and heat generation slightly.

  5. #5
    larryandlaura - Reefkeeper
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    I used a kill a watt meter on my hy-5000 and it was at 58 watts. I plan on borrowing the meter again soon to try the 3000.
    Hi my name is Larry and I'm a coral addict!

  6. #6
    binford4000 - Reefkeeper
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZDesertRat View Post
    Have either of you used a Kill A Watt meter to see how accurate the advertised wattage numbers are? I am considering swapping an Ocean Runner 3500 which is rated at 900 GPH at 65 watts. In my testing with a Kill A Watt meter, open discharge or 0 head it actually draws about 58 watts and in my system with approx 4 feet of head loss it is drawing 53 watts on the meter.

    I am thinking about the HY5000 model to gain a bit of flow and maybe split the output to run a couple small Phosban and carbon reactors and my calcium reactor. This way I could eliminate 2 or 3 small powerheads powering those other components and clean the plumbing under the stand up a little while maybe reducing the power consumption and heat generation slightly.
    I switched all our pumps other then the external for the large tank to these and also checked with a meter.They work as advertised and are based on the red dragon pumps.You will not be disapointed and they run very cool also.I used the 5000 and got a reading of 56 on the wife's and 58 on the frag tank's.We run headers off them and removed all other pumps.These pumps supply the tank,gfo reactor,carbon reactor chiller and the uv.That's allot water for the money.Only the red dragon's are better in my book.But at 650.00 apiece that's some serious coin so I am happy with the reef octopus LOL
    Last edited by binford4000; 01-19-2012 at 05:31 PM.

  7. #7
    CalmSeasQuest - Reefkeeper
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    I've been running a 5000 as my return pump for about a year. While I love the energy savings, I've had issues with the pumps seizing - as often as every 2~3 months. (Mineral deposits form around the bushing) Coralvue replaced the first one as it was seizing every few weeks (I suspect a Mfg defect as the pump model # was mislabeled.) I also notice that the screws and threaded inserts are rusting.

    The current one is better, but still not ideal. I do run a CaRx and maintain 10dKh/440Ca, but it has never impacted any other return pump.
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. - George Bernard Shaw

  8. #8
    binford4000 - Reefkeeper
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest View Post
    I've been running a 5000 as my return pump for about a year. While I love the energy savings, I've had issues with the pumps seizing - as often as every 2~3 months. (Mineral deposits form around the bushing) Coralvue replaced the first one as it was seizing every few weeks (I suspect a Mfg defect as the pump model # was mislabeled.) I also notice that the screws and threaded inserts are rusting.

    The current one is better, but still not ideal. I do run a CaRx and maintain 10dKh/440Ca, but it has never impacted any other return pump.
    wow that su#$s,first time hearing about problems with these pumps.Better do an inspection of mine !

  9. #9
    AZDesertRat - Reefkeeper
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    Thanks everyone!

    I had a similar seizing problem with two different Quiet One 4000's (which eventually wnet in the trash after they literally went up in flames but thats another story) and helped the situation by smoothing out the magnets coating and excess flashing around the impeller and down in the cavity of the pump where the outboard rubber bushing goes.

    What happens is related to how a centrifugal pump operates. The water is slung to the outside of the impeller and volute causing a vacuum close to the shaft or eye of the impeller. The higher calcium tends to precipitate out and coat this area. By smoothing the area it gave the calcium fewer places to take hold but it did not prevent it completely. Its probably the same issue with the HY pumps.

    Its good to see a manufacturer advertising accurate wattage consumption, many of the pumps I ahev tested over the past 10 or so years have been way off the advertised claims, Mag was one of the worst as was Quiet One and the Rio Hyperflos.
    Eheim and Ocean Runner were veary accurate if not better than advertised for both shut off head and wattage.

  10. #10
    CalmSeasQuest - Reefkeeper
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    My apologies - I'm running the HY-7000.

    I also found that although the pumps use less energy when valved-back, it also decreases the cooling through the pump and accelerates the formation of mineral deposits. I like everything about the pump except it propensity to seize far too frequently. I might try ordering a replacement impeller to see if any improvements have been made.
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. - George Bernard Shaw

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