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General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.


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  1. #1
    Sir Patrick - Reefkeeper A2 Club Coordinator
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    Default General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.

    Being zoas and palys have been my favorite coral for many years, I figured I would share some of the basic info I have learned throughout the years on zoanthids, to share with those that might need it.

    Lets start with dips- There are many dips available for polyps available these days. Dipping polyps (if not quarentined) is highly recomended, as polyps tend to hold a large variety of nuisence hitchikers. I will go through a few-

    Fresh water dip- just fresh (preferably RO) water. Use a buffer to get ph the same as your tank water. Dip for 5 minutes, swish agressivly, and return to tank. Side not on freshwater dips- not recomended on P. Grandis. Can result in melting. Most recomended for zoanthids only.

    Lugols- an antiseptic (after fragging) and a nudi/flatworm dip- can be used with fresh water or saltwater. Use 1-5 drops per gallon. Soak for 5 minutes, swish around agressivly, rince in seperate tank water, return to tank.

    Revive- for nudis, flatworms and antiseptic for damaged coral- follow instructions on bottle.

    Tropic marin coral pro (TMCP)- for spiders, nudis, asterinas, flatworms- follow instructions on bottle.

    hydrogen peroxide- brown fungus and white paste infestation- Gently brush off fungus. Mix tank water and peroxide, 1 equal part each. Dip for 5 minutes, swish agressivly, rince with seperate tank water and return to tank.

    Formaline dip-protazoan infestation. Use 1 ml per liter of sea water. Dip and swish, rinse in clean salt water, and add to tank.

    Furan-2-zoa pox/fungus. Disolve one pill in one cup of freshly made saltwater. Dip for 15-20 minutes. Rinse in unmedicated saltwater and add back to the tank. Do this dip once a day, for 3 consecutive days. Give your polyps a 5-7 day resting period before doing it again if the pox persists after the first round of dipping.

    Zoas not opening- there are many reasons for this to happen. I will go through a few-

    Aclimation- zoas can be very sensitive to new tanks/parameters/flow/lights. Until they are aclimated, when newly added to a tank, they can at times take a very long time to open.

    Predators/irritators- zoas will close when being bothered. If your zoas close up, and dont open, take a really close look at the cosed polyps for nudis, flatworms, asterinas, spiders, bristol worms, algea, vermitid snails, and fungus. Also includes hermits and snails that have traveled through the polyps. Pretty much anything that could be touching the polyp, or brushing against it to make it close.

    PH and alk and temperature swings- All of these are known to bother zoas and somtimes close them up.

    Fungus, bacterias and zoa pox- Look for any kind of sponge or paste material in your polyps. Also watch for white bumps/lesions on the stalks of your polyps.

    Light shock- it can close up, and also bleach, polyps if time isnt taken to aclimate them to new, higher output lighting.

    Nipping/perching- Some fish (along with many considered reef safe) might develop a tendancy to nip/eat polyps. Some of these include- Tangs, rabit fish, butterflys, and angels, and also sally lightfoot and emerald crabs. All have been known to develop a taste for polyps. Not saying they will, but can. Others have the tendancy to perch on polyps, causing them to close up. Some of these include- Blennies, dragonettes, and hawkfish.

    Stray voltage- This will irritate zoas into closing up.


    How can I tell the difference between zoas/palys?- For general purposes, zoas tend to be smaller and have shorter stalks, and dont accept feeding. Palys usually have grains of sand in their tissue, have longer stalks, and larger heads and will feed on introduced foods.


    Polyps are reaching/stretching- There a a couple reasons for this. One is lighting. They are reaching for more light. Another is they need more flow. The last one is its their specific characteristic. Some palys naturaly have very long stalks.


    Fragging polyps- There are many ways to go about fragging polyps. When fragging polyps, it is wise to use "safety first". Use hand, eye and mouth protection. It can be very easy to get a bacteria infection while fragging polyps. You can get cut, get squirted in the eye/mouth and inhale some nasty stuff while cutting through rock. Also, hand washing afterwards is very important. The basics of getting polyps off a rock/plug is to cut the conecting mat from the polyps you wish to frag, then cut/chisel/pry the polyps off the rock underneath the mat, leaving a layer of rock underneath. You can also cut strait through a rock and cut a colony into peices, just cutting the mat that conects them together. You can then use superglue gel to mount your fragged peice to a rock/plug. Be carfull with the glue. You dont want to acidentaly get the glue on the head of the polyp. It will not be able to open.


    Polyp placment- In general, unless you can figure out the lighting scheme of the tank the polyps came from, there is a very good way to find out the best placment for your polyps. Start the new additions on the bottom. Let them get used to your tank and lights. If they astert to lose their vibrance of color, or are generally unhappy, move them up bit by bit, over a period of time, till their color, growth and general look to them gives you the impresion that they are happy in their spot. If they close up on you, and dont open up for an unknown reason, they might have to be lowered in your tank.

    General tank husbandry for polyps- Polyps, in general, like (but dont always need) a high light source. Most polyps love light, with a few exeptions. They also need a clean tank (low no3 and po4) to retain vibrant colors. High nutrients levels (food sources) will provide a suitable environment for polyps to grow well in. Dont let the phrase "high nutrient" fool you into thinking a dirty tank. It is not the case, although polyps can and will live in just about any water/light condition you put them in. They just grow/look better in certain conditions.


    Morphing- Under different lighting, flow, temp, parameter, and placement conditions, zoanthids can and will morph. Their colors, lenght and skirts will change to suit the conditions of your tank.


    Some helpful reference pics-


    Nudi pics- contributed by ReeferRob-

    IMG 0019 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.


    IMG 0022 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.

    And nudi eggs- contributed by ReeferRob- The small white circlets on the zoas stem-

    IMG 0026 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.

    Zoa pox- pic contributed by ReeferRob-

    IMG 0048 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.


    Asterina stars, the good (white) and the bad (somtimes called blue)- pics contributed by Tazzy695-

    Good-

    SatFeb27212843EST2010 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.

    And bad-

    SatFeb27212833EST2010 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.


    Sundail snails- most commonly more white when wet- Notice the trap door enterence to the shell, and color pattern-


    100 3171 1 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.

    100 3172 1 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.

    100 3173 1 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.

    100 3174 1 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.


    Vermetid snails-


    100 3557 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.


    100 3556 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.







    More will be updated as time fits- Hope this helps out some zoa keepers in the future.
    Last edited by Sir Patrick; 07-11-2011 at 11:40 PM. Reason: Added pics-
    Likes pinky liked this post

  2. #2
    jojo22 - Reefkeeper Registered User
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    Default

    Nice write up man, keep up the good work!
    Does water always taste like salt and poo????


  3. #3
    graphixx - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Default

    agreed.... great info so far...one thing I would stress on the fragging is to make sure and be carefull when fraggin.

    Zoo's are on of the MOST poisonous critters in the sea zootoxin is DEADLY and should be carefull when fragging. you want to use gloves and do not get the water your using when fragging in cuts or in your eye or any other open part of the body.

    I have fragged zoo's before and got a tear in my glove and had a cut on my finger and my entire hand swelled up pretty damm bad because of it.

    just a little word of caution.
    fulltankshot 1 - General zoa/paly info- Need a quick answer, look here.

  4. #4
    jojo22 - Reefkeeper Registered User
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    This post is officially a sticky, we can't be letting write up's like this get buried away somewhere.
    Does water always taste like salt and poo????


  5. #5
    ReeferRob - Reefkeeper CR Member
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    Default

    Thank you, thank you, thank you.


    Finally someone who did a great write up one, but two and most important to me cause I've been ripping out hair by the handful is info on the different types of dips and what they do.

    Thank you Sir!
    "We shouldn't think of an environment where livestock can survive, we should ensure an environment where livestock can thrive."-Rabidgoose
    "If it's gonna be that kinda party, Ima stick my ........ in the mashed potatoes!"-Beastie Boys

  6. #6
    Sir Patrick - Reefkeeper A2 Club Coordinator
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    Default

    Thx for the replies/sticky. After looking at the zoa/paly forum, figured it needed a write up.

    This is far from finished- just started. Will be added to as more info comes to mind.

    Graphixx- I will be adding more on the importance of safety and fragging of zoas. Definitly needs more info, and plenty to add!

  7. #7
    Sir Patrick - Reefkeeper A2 Club Coordinator
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    Default

    ReeferRob- Glad some of this info helped you. Ever need help- just ask. Always there to help.

  8. #8

    Default

    Ooohh a sticky! Nice job Pat! I love to see such thoughtful contributions to our community! Keep up the good work. Thank you!

  9. #9
    Sir Patrick - Reefkeeper A2 Club Coordinator
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    Any time- just one of the things I saw that the new up and coming site needed. Glad to help.

  10. #10
    Sir Patrick - Reefkeeper A2 Club Coordinator
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    Thx for the picture contributions ReeferRob! Much apreciated.

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