That's the plan, so I'll up date this thread tomorrow evening and guess we can go from there.
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01-28-2011, 12:31 AMPost #1: steveperry98
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01-28-2011, 04:03 AMPost #2: Rabidgoose
I didn't catch it....are you having algae problems as well?
2 things I would do to start with.....Quote:
Originally Posted by steveperry98
1) I would take a water sample in to the pet store and have them check it, if it is drastically different than what you get with your test kit I would get another test kit. I would also suggest testing your source water. Do you use RO/DI?
2) I would cut back on the feeding. This may take a little time to notice a difference but consider that what goes in at the north end supplies nutrients to the fish, what comes out at the south end supplies nutrients to the tank... -
01-28-2011, 08:54 AMPost #3: steveperry98
I am planning on bring some water with me to get tested. I do have a 5 stage R/O system that is brand new. I have made about 600 gallons off it so far in the last 6 month's. I do not know if it has a D.I membrane but I would think it does. The last filter it runs water through says it is a deodorizer and neutralizer. Which sounds like a D.I filter. I did use well water on the 90 gal when I first set it through the 6 months it was setup up but no unfiltered water has ever touched my 125 Gal.
I really didn't think that I was over feeding but I will consider it along with some other things that were mentioned here last night. I have very little problems with algae in the tank. I need to clean the glass about every 3-4 days, sometimes I get away with not doing it for longer then that. When I do have to clean the glass though, it's not anything major just a thin film of light brown algae. Although I do get a lot of these small light brown dots of algae clustered close together that I have to put some effort into scrubbing off, they take just a little less effort to get off then tiny spots of coraline. I'll post what I find out tonight from the new test kit I get today. -
01-28-2011, 11:19 AMPost #4: rmalone
Get a new test kit for sure. I would recommend salifert or lamotte. Supposedly elos makes a good kit also. Stay away from ocean, api, red sea, and tetra kits. I have no faith in any of those, yes I have tried all mentioned except elos.
Ditch that rubble if it's in the baffle, if you want to keep it just lay it out in the skimmer or return section so it can be cleaned around.
Lots of fish for a 125g, with that bio load I would do mb7/vodka or the bio pellet and mb/7. You would be shocked at how well those systems get rid of nitrates, it's like magic and you have the skimmer to support probiotics. -
01-28-2011, 08:57 PMPost #5: steveperry98
So I got a bunch of new test kit this afternoon, anyone ever hear of Nutrafin Test kits? The test tubes say Hagen, I think I have heard of them before.
Any ways the test I did came back at between 5-10mg/L. That was a big shocker! I also got a PO4 test kit and it came out to about 0.5mg/L. The new KH test kit came out to 110mg/L. So my Carbonate Hardness is low accoring to this kit. Says it should be between 150-190mg/L. Says I should add the appropriate buffer. What is the appropriate buffer? Magnesium? Alkalinity? What product should I use? I don't have a magnesium test kit so I don't dose for it even though I have some.
Order the Phosban last night and I picked up a pump big enough(296gph) to handle the tumbling that is so important to prevent clumping according to Vertex Pro Bio Pellets instructions.
I think I am going to test my R/O's NO3 levels just as a precaution tonight.
http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/DSC02659.jpg -
01-28-2011, 10:26 PMPost #6: EMUreefQuote:
Originally Posted by steveperry98
Hmm i've never heard of that company and i can see why im not to sure why they dont have a 0 color lol. it only goes to 5. But either way its showing that its not as bad as you though. 5-10 is livable, do you have SPS? cause if you have sps than your going to want them at 0.
Couple days before my water change my N03 is at 5 and after a water change it goes away. I'd cut back on the feedings. I see ur going with the vertex bio pellets your nirtates and phosphates will go away after using that.
as far as getting ur Alk back up, you should look into getting a 2 part. 1 part is the calc and the other part is the Carbonate Alk. which will raise that. -
01-28-2011, 10:29 PMPost #7: steveperry98
I have some B-Ionic Calcium buffer system, comes in two bottles, problem is I have never used them. Is it okay to just use the alk buffer with out the calcium? Also the kit say that if you have 0mg/L the color will stay clear. I do have a little SPS but it has taken a year to grow a little more than double it's original size which was bearly 2 inches to start with. Basically SPS maintains it's self in my tank with very little growth if any. I have always just chalked that up to it being a new tank.
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01-28-2011, 10:30 PMPost #8: EMUreefyea its safe do you have a calc test?Quote:
Originally Posted by steveperry98
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01-28-2011, 10:39 PMPost #9: steveperry98
Yes, but it's a API brand, can I trust it? That was the brand of test kit's I was using before this new stuff.
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01-28-2011, 10:43 PMPost #10: EMUreefi would recommend salifert for calcium, but you can ad the alk part of the 2 part without and ill effects, the only reason they give you a 2 part is because they are both suppose to be absorbed at the same time with the same amount.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveperry98