CalmSeasQuest

Apparently acquiring anything BubbleKing or Vertex does strange things to a marine aquarist.

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Prior to this build, had anyone told me I'd be buying red PVC or tubing, I'd have thought them NUTS :)

The red PVC is for the discharge on the Vertex media reactors. The red silicone tubing will feed the reactors from the manifold.

Tank is being delivered Sunday at Noon!

I'm starting to lay out the plumbing and realized how large (tall) the SP6 return pump is...

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I had planned on including a check valve on the return line, not due to sump overflowing concerns as the sump will hold more than enough drainage, but rather a convenience to prevent the skimmer from overflowing. With the tall return pump, manifold/fuge feed and gate valve on the return, I might have to lose the check valve.

GEO 612 cleaned, refilled with Tropic Eden CR media and ~25% ZEO mag and ready for service...

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The tank will at some point out-demand this small reactor and I'll have to replace it with a larger CaRx.

Another reefer pointed out I could use a delay command to avoid the skimmer overflowing (Thank You h.cordero.) This turns out to be a simple solution that addresses most of the use cases for a check valve.

As I thought this through, I realized I have been looking for a mechanical solution to a problem that really doesn't exist, or at least isn't significant enough to warrant another device which requires maintenance and adds more unions (opportunity for leaks) to the plumbing.

With a simple delay command added to the Apex skimmer outlet,

• Power failure - The return pump is on the UPS, so in the event of a power failure - it will continue run for at least 30 minutes providing enough time to get the generator online. A check valve wouldn't even come into play in this scenario.
  
• Extended power outage/generator failure - In this case, the delay command would prevent the skimmer from restarting until after the return pump had restored normal water levels in the sump.
  
• Maintenance requiring the return pump be shut off - If working on the pump or plumbing, simply trigger a feed cycle that pauses the skimmer during maintenance or manually shut off the skimmer if a longer period of time is needed.

The only use case I see where the check valve provides some value is in the event of return pump failure. But even in this case, I plan on using a sump high-water float to alert me of the problem, which can easily also shut off the skimmer. Add the fact that the size of the check valve further complicates my plumbing design and adds a small amount of additional head pressure - I come to the following conclusion...

For Sale - One never-used, 1 1/4" check valve.

I was hoping I'd be posting photo's of my newly delivered tank at this moment, but it was not to be.

Delivery of the stand and sump went fine. When the tank was brought in and placed on the stand, I grabbed a couple of large LED flashlights and began the inspection. When I got to the dead center of the front of the tank, I found multiple scratches both inside and out.

My heart sank...

Had they been on the end panels, or perhaps toward the bottom I might have been able to overlook them - but dead center front panel, I could not accept.

To his credit, Steve and Great Lakes Aquariums acknowledged the problem and immediately loaded the tank back in their trailer. They hope to have a replacement tank built and delivered in 30 days.

I've got a few weeks remaining before the replacement tank is delivered, so I started to lay out the equipment in the sump and estimate the plumbing and electrical runs. I installed 32' of waterproof LED ribbon lights (48 Watts total) in the top of cabinet that will function as work lights.

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They are much brighter than they appear - They are only running at about 60% while I wait on an new power supply. Eventually, I'll add a few door switches and connect them to the Apex via the break-out box so the cabinet is illuminated whenever a door is opened.

Man that stinks about the tank !! I am sure they will make it right. Stand and fuge looks sharp! I like the LEDs work light idea

• Pukani, Reefsaver and Marco Rock....Check
• Assorted diamond blades and drills....Check
• Travertine tile, acrylic and nylon rod, epoxy and hydraulic cement.....Check

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And so it begins...

I think I might need to change my plans for Ca and Alk supplementation on the grow-out tank. It's a 100 gallon stock tank, holding ~70 gallons. It's currently stocked with about 100 pieces including a few larger SPS colonies and a very large clam with another 70 frags on the way. Present CA and Alk demand is requiring ~250ml/Day of 2-part. At this rate, I'm going through 1 gallon of each 2-part every 15 days. On such a small system, this is resulting in salinity creep requiring the removal of about 6 gallons of saltwater a month. I expect the demand to about double once the remaining corals arrive.

I may replace the current 2-part dosing system with my existing GEO612 CaRx and purchase a new, larger reactor for the 270. I haven't researched Calcium Reactors in a long time. Anything better than our trusty GEOs with AP Carbon Dosers?

While I ponder putting a CaRx on the grow-out tank, Picked up larger, 2.5 gallon jugs to use for 2-part. This should provide up to 45 days between refills...

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1 gallon jug vs the 2.5 gallon

I promised myself that with this build I was going to get a better handle on organizing equipment and supplies. I standardized the storage units - all nest, are clear so you can see the contents and can be easily labeled...

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These initial three will contain water testing, fragging and pump supplies and parts.

And a labeler so everything "knows it's name"...

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For a system the size you are planning, that Ca Reactor will be able to keep up for about 3 months. ;) With as much space as you have to work with, I would look at something that holds 30-35 pounds of media at least. I am sure the continuous water changes will help with demand as well, but I'm not real sure how to quantify that.