CalmSeasQuest

I've largely decided on the sump design, I'm going to enlarge the below uncleof6 design that will provide a 20X24X10 skimmer area, 18X24X9 for the return pump and 30X24X12 for a fuge/frag area. This should be about 75 gallons in operational volume and allow for about ~50 gallons in overflow when the return pump is off (I'll use a wye check valve on the return, but never trust them.)

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/...SumpLayout.jpg

All that needs to be added is a manifold and slight rerouting of the siphon and trickle drains to incorporate the occasional use of filter socks. I'll create a 5 tap manifold for the GFO, GAC and BioPellet reactors and a couple spares.

I think I've also changed my return pump selection, deciding to go with the Waveline 12000. It provides more flow and head pressure than the Diablo. The only inconvenience is the intake is larger (1.5") requiring some plumbing changes to the saltwater mixing station.

Still researching GFO, GAC and bio pellet reactors. I've had lots of flow issues with the BRS reactors over the years, so perhaps Vertex or NextReef MR1s. I'd like to use a manifold tap to drive the CaRx, but I've had such great luck with the Cole-Parmer - I'm not sure I want to fool with it.

I also decided on a Vertex Alpha 250 as it will run happily in 10" of water. Perhaps the greatest challenge will be fitting all the "Dry" equipment into the remaining 22X29 space in the cabinet.

As I sit here researching equipment for this build, It dawns on me....

We struggle, spending dozens of hours researching just the right LED's to reduce electrical needs and limit heat (at least radiant heat) from entering the tank...

We use the latest, most energy efficient DC pumps to save energy and reduce the amount of heat being added to the tank.

We use Killawatts to tabulate every watt leached by every ancillary device to create the most "green" environment possible, All so we can...

Buy MORE, LARGER, energy sucking HEATERS that are now needed to compensate for the missing Metal Halide heaters (poorly disguised as lights) and all the cold, energy sipping devices we just paid a huge premium for.

Somehow, with all the smaller tanks I've had over the years, it never really hit home. It's interesting what you pay attention to when you realize you how many Watts are needed to heat 325 gallons of saltwater :doh:

And do so gladly I might add :big_grin:

I like the plan Tom! Just wondering why the equal size drains and returns? If I could change one thing on my new tank it would be the drain size. How many drains are you planning ? Ya might want consider 1 1/2 to 2 in for the drains. It will make flooding less likely,allow you to install larger pump in the future if you deiced you gotta have more!
It also makes much easier to make the noise reduction much better. Have you considered theRed Dragon series pumps? Huge volumes with very low wattage consumption and are practically bluet proof! And have a very small footprint. Little pricey but worth it in the long run! Following along for sure ,you could do a hot water heater heat system if your hot water tank is close by. Dave(diver down) did this on his system and really reduced the expense of a 900 gallon total system

Thanks Chuck,

The drains are configured as a Bean Animal - 3 X 1.5" drains in total with the primary running full siphon. The drains will far outrun the return and should be virtually silent. The return should be good for about 2400GPH, but with the MP60's handling the vast majority of tank flow, I doubt I'll run anywhere near that through the sump.

The Red Dragon pumps are great - one powers the Alpha 250 skimmer. I also considered the Abyzz 100 (an incredible pump) but can't imagine needing more than the ~3000GPH provided by the DC Waveline even when including the manifold. I like the hot water tank concept, but with the sump in the stand it would be some work to accomplish. I think I'll wait till the tank is up and see how much supplemental heat is needed - then decide the next step.

The 250 is an awesome skimmer. Sounds like a plan! Looking forward to seeing it all come together:thumbsup:

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/...228_135439.jpg

RO/DI and Saltwater tanks are in place. Each hold 200 gallons (30"DiaX72"tall) I've started roughing out the plumbing and the Waveline DC12000 should get here Monday along with a few missing plumbing components.

I'm estimating ~7 GPD evaporation. I'll rig a latching float system with the Apex which will automatically fill the RO/DI tank. Other than monitoring and periodically changing RO/DI filters, resin and membranes, The ATO system should require very little maintenance.

The plan for the AWC is to use a Masterflex pump driving 2 peristaltic pumps to replace about 4 GPD. This should yield a ~40% monthly water change and require refilling the saltwater tank every 6~7 weeks.

I am having some second thoughts on the tank dimensions. I initially decided on limiting the tank height to 22" so I could reach the substrate with the tank sitting on a 36" tall stand. I'm now thinking that perhaps I should just go with the 320 and gain the additional 4" of height.

Decisions, decisions...:)

AWC. Man that is the way to go! I always wanted to use a liter meter to do the same thing.nice tanks where did you find those??

Thanks Chuck,

The tanks came from TanksForLess. I considered the Litermeter III, but I had collected a few lab-grade Masterflex pumps over the years that require far less maintenance and are perfect for this task. Because one pump will drive both pumps at exactly the same RPM, it should eliminate the need to calibration.

I'm excited to see this build come together - A primary goal is to minimize maintenance. The ATO and AWC components are an important part of the reduced maintenance.

After much deliberation, I committed to the Kessils A360WE's and took advantage of a 10% off coupon through ReefGeek (not to mention the things are sold out most everywhere else.) With my shallow depth and the additional 15% output from the new "E" models, I'm hopeful they will end up being a great choice.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/...all/A360We.jpghttp://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/...ll/Adapter.jpg
5 - A360WE Controllable LED Aquarium Light - Wide Angle Lens
5 - 90 Degree Gooseneck Adapter
1 - Control Unit Link Cable for A360 and A360W to Neptune Systems Apex
5 - Control Unit Link Cable for A360 and A360W KSL0103
5 - Gooseneck Clamp/Mount for A150, A350, and A360

I ordered 5 to begin with to see what 1 unit every 18" looks like. The gooseneck adapters should give me the ability to "stagger" the lights if needed to cover the 30" front/back.

Still searching for the Vertex Alpha 250 as they appear to be pretty scarce. Took advantage of other year-end sales and grabbed 4 cases of IO/RC, 300lbs of Tropic Eden Reef Flakes, another Apex system (so I don't have to cannibalize my existing setup which will be used as QT/hospital tank) and a second Waveline 12000 (same pumps used for return and saltwater mixing station.)

I also decided to roll the dice and try the Jaebo WP series pumps. I ordered 4 60's, and a couple 40's and 10's to test.

I'm looking forward to seeing this come together. When I had my basement sump, I chose a return pump that I knew added heat to the water, specifically for the reason you mention. The pump I have now, also adds heat, but I would prefer it didn't. (Reeflo Triton III, it is really to big for my system.)