I'd ditch the bio-filters/emperor and go with a sump/return pump.The sump gives you many advantages over H.O.T biofilters.It will also provide you a place to put your heater/protein skimmer in.The test kits you most need are nitrate,alkalinity,and PH.Most LFS will test your water for other params like ammonia,nitrite,etc.. and those 2 reallly only need to be monitored while your tank is cycling.You will need enough fine aragonite sand to provide a 3"-5" layer.This is known as a deep sand bed(DSB).If a shallower (1"-2") bed(SSB) is what you want,then go with a coarser grain aragonite sand like CaribSea.The coarser grain size will allow you to use a vaccuum without sucking up all the sand.Vacuuming is not recommended for DSB.Both methods have there advantages/drawbacks but that another topic entirely.For internal circulation/powerheads,I'd use no less than 4-MaxiJet 1200's.They are about the most durable powerheads i've ever used.The chlorine neutralizer wont be needed unless you plan on using tap-water which is a bad idea IMO.Distilled water can be purchased from a grocery store or you can usually buy RO/DI filtered water from your LFS.The strip lights,I've already commented on in your other thread.To sum it up,3,5,12,14,and possibly 15 really wont be needed.I also rarely use a net(I introduce fish with my hand) but since they're cheap,it wouldn't hurt having one.