POWER!!!

[Grue]

When setting up a new system you may wish to look at the power all the equipment will draw. I just found out the hard way that you can blow a circuit and wait for an electrical for repairs
My tank set up is as follows Current USA 2x 150 MH 2 t5 actinic. Ocean runner 1200, coral life cal reactor, Euro reef PS 120, Titanium heater 100w, Moonlight from an Odessa 25w all on one circuit. I figured I wouldn

[melev]

Well, I do have a section on my site about that, but not to the full extent you're describing. Mine is more about power to the tank, and how I've got it wired. My reef tank has three circuits to divide all my equipment across.

When the electrician comes, he can actually determine how much power you need for the living room (tv & computers, a/c....) and for the tank (all equipment turned on), using a tool that wraps around the black wire leading to the circuit breaker.

For safety reasons, you are only allowed to use 80% of what a breaker is rated. So if your breaker is a 20 amp one, you can use 16 amps max. If it is a 15 amp, you can use 12 amps. The reason for this is because when you first turn something on (vacuum, a/c unit, stove, tv), there is a surge or spike of power, then it drops to an operational level. That is why you have 20% extra to hit briefly, but not constantly. And if you exceed it, the breaker is supposed to trip.

You may need more circuits, possibly even a new main power panel. We use far more electricity today than was used when many homes were built one, two or even three decades ago.

[dakar]

Wow that's a lot of 'stuff' for only two circuits... amazing that you didn't have troubles earlier. Personally I prefer to run separate 15A circuits for the tank(s) with dedicated GFI breakers/outlets, add in that I always go at least one size heavier than 'code' calls for for wire size (ie.. 12-2 for a 15A 110VAC circuit, when code says 14-2 is enough).

That can get expensive upfront, but to help keep the house from burning down if something goes wrong... a drop in the bucket.

Best of luck getting things sorted!

[Sparky]

Marc you hit the nail on the head 80% percent of a circuit load is good way to keep you from overlaoding a cicuit, You also have to keep in mind the NEC allows a branch circuit, a maxuim of 3% voltage drop. With out going in to the formula. Approximately every 100' of wire, you need to go up in size to compinsate for the voltage drop. for example if I were to run a 140' of wire for a 20 amp circuit I would pull a #10, over 200' I would go to a #8 and so on. I have my 65 gal running on 2-20 amp cicuits, about 90' from the service panel, I try keep the load equal between the 2. circuit 1 2x150 MH with 4x39 T-5's ph controller wave maker 2 power head = 5-6 amps circuit 2 quitet one 4000 HH pump, skimmer, calcuim reactor, Kalk reactor, phos-ban reactor, fuge 2x24 compact flor= 4-5 amps. I agree with Dave, I too am suprised you haven't had problems before the tank came along.

[Sparky]

I don't know how I ended up posting 3 time on this but, I guess pick one! LOL

[dakar]

Not sure how that happened.. normally the board would have caught them... but I deleted the extras. Guess I need to push the latest version of the software up shortly...

[Sparky]

Thanks Dave!!!!

[carpenterwrasse]

my old box had 6 fuses... does anyone remember the old screw in fuses??? I still have some old knob and tube wireing in this old girl....tell me about trouble

[dakar]

The ones you could *cheat* with pennies (and subsequently ruin the socket when they melt down)? The kind that only blew at night after any hardware store was long closed? Nope never seen them before...

[carpenterwrasse]

sounds to me like someone else has had some experiences