So, I started with my tank at 1.025, and after reading several threads, saw at least most people posting were running 1.026.
I'm wondering if there is any 'real' noticeable difference between the two levels, and if there's any benefits (besides cost of salt) to moving between 1.024-1.026? I'm wondering if this can affect Zoa's opening, for one - and coral growth, for another
My Acan's are popping off some babies, and that's good. I've seen growth on my Montipora Sunset; but my Joker Zoa's seem to remain closed a lot of the time no matter where I move them - some of them got bleached I think and when moved into lower light they all closed up. My Candy Apple Reds are doing fine, though.
Also my Jack O Lantern Leptoseris, which I was told is a fast grower, hasn't shown any real noticeable growth yet, though I've only had it in there for a little over a month now.
It's just late at night, and I'm pondering my tank.
I can't say whether or not 0.01 difference in salinity makes that much difference. But the sps/lps will all appreciate trying to maintain a stable alkalinity. For zoas, if you notice them decline or stay closed for most of the time, I would reposition them in the tank if you can...often a change of flow or lighting condition snaps them out of it.
I rarely change water in my tank, but zoas staying closed is also a signal I use for time to do a water change My guess is, the trace nutrients become depleted in my tank...but a simple water change seems to fix this rather than adding a bunch more chemicals to the water. I suspect you are already doing regular water changes though.
Another suggestion is to run/change activated carbon.
i would assume there is only the smallest difference between 1.025 and 1.026.
i run at 1.025 solely to give myself a bit of give for evaporation in case my ATO konks out for some reason.
I like to run my system at 1.026. I change 10 gallons a week and I found that mixing a new batch of reef crystals to 1.026 gives me an alk/cal result thats almost dead on to what i keep them at in my system. I also heat it to 78 degrees, same as my display tank. My sticks are happy and growing like crazy and everything has great polyp extension.
Check the Zoas for pest nudi's. If just one gets on the colony the whole bunch will close up. They are hard to see but if you look close you will see them. You may also see small white rings. Those are eggs. I had a few colonies that would open great for awhile and then close for weeks at a time. I found the nudi's munching on them. Killed the nudi's and the Zoas and Paly's opened up the next day.
The .001 really won't really make a difference. Twenty plus years ago when I started this hobby the recommended level was 1.021 and you we're nuts if you ran 1.023 ! Like Jim and Manoj stated accurate measurement and consistency will do wonders. When it comes to softies I have noticed when you reach +1.027 you will notice less extension . I would be much more concerned about maintaining alk,calcium and mag levels then .001 SG
The .001 really won't really make a difference. Twenty plus years ago when I started this hobby the recommended level was 1.021 and you we're nuts if you ran 1.023 ! Like Jim and Manoj stated accurate measurement and consistency will do wonders. When it comes to softies I have noticed when you reach +1.027 you will notice less extension . I would be much more concerned about maintaining alk,calcium and mag levels then .001 SG
+1 --- I thought I was the only one that recalls 1.022 as "the standard!"
Detroit's oldest large LED tank! Est'd Jan 2005, went LED June 2009. 6' wide 130g reef, Sunbrite T10 LED tubes (3xGen 3 and 1xGen 1), mostly SPS, but chalices, other LPS, and a few softies too. http://pjr-reef.blogspot.com/