Teach me some basics PLZ

[ReeferRob]

What is the rest of the CR community using in the RO/DI units? I see the value in the Spectrapure products but money is beyond tight right now and the BRS seem like a waste of money in comparison. The Melevreef filters are right in the middle price wise but he has zero info on them on the site. I actually bought my system from him so Im leaning that direction but still thinking it over......

[ReeferRob]

AZ, I only can pop for $50 bucks right now. Would it be wise to only replace my sediment filter, carbon block and DI canister? This would leave one canister empty until I can afford to buy a second one per your suggestion as well as the membrane.
Now that I think about it more, it would be stupid to pass up the great sale deal on the membrane. That is unless they run this sale often and I can get it again in the near future. (My current Melev unit is only 8-9 months old) aarrgh, what to do what to do!!?

[AZDesertRat]

The Spectrapure CSP-DI is only $145 brand new and guaranteed, not sure why someone would think that is expensive when comparable units start at aroung $200 with fewer features or lower quality filters?
Thats with a dual inline TDS meter, inline pressure gauge, treated and tested RO membrane, capillary tube flow restrictor, 0.5 micron prefilter and carbon block andcustom blended DI resin.

Marc's (Melev) RO/DI is a good unit just a little different. It uses a 100GPD GE membrane which is equal to an off the shelf Dow Filmtec 75 GPD membrane in all respects. Have you tested your rejection rate to see what it is and if you need to replace it?Your tap water and RO only TDS numbers will tell you this. The TDS meter will also tell you if the DI needs replacing.

If the prefilter and carbon is older than 6 months then yes they need replacing. I would get a 0.5 micron prefilter and a 0.5 micron carbon block then replumb the extra carbon canister as a second DI. It takes about $5 in parts to do so. If the rejection rate is less than say 96% I would think about a new membrane if your tap water TDS is very high and you make much water, DI starts adding up quickly and soon exceeds the cost of a membrane.

Whereever you buy the replacement filters get at least a 1 micron prefilter or smaller and a single 0.6 or 0.5 micron carbon block. You will not find DI resins comparable to Spectrapures anywhere as they have a long term testing facility in their shop and test every resin on the market before blending their own in house. They tell me the resin is usually blended and sealed the day theyship it so it is not prepackaged or sitting on a shelf somewhere. Resin has an unopened shelf life of about 6 months even when packed and stored properly and less than that once opened so it watch where you buy it. If you buy in bulk, once opened use a seal a meal vacuum device if possible to reseal it or at a minimum two zip loc storage bags with a little RO/DI water mixed in the resin to keep it moist then placed in the back of the refirgerator so it stays cool.

[ReeferRob]

Okay, AZ going with your recommendations. I tried once a week ago but the check out cart failed, froze and the transaction never went through. I called but customer support put me on hold for 5 minutes. I don't have time for that. But Im gonna give them another shot even though they just put me on hold again..........ergh!
So Im gonna try again right now.
Im gonna get one SpectraSelect Membrane, does it mater which gpd I get? Looks like I need a flow restrictor two, any insight there?
Im gonna get one .5 sediment filter and one .5 carbon block.
Now to follow through with your suggestions to have 2 DI resin chambers, what else exactly do I need?
I am assuming 2 MaxCap Cartridges, or do you suggest a different product.
Also would be extremely helpful if you could clue me into what Gusset fittings I need and how to change it up.

Thanks a million!!


Okay, back for mo

[AZDesertRat]

Get the 90 GPD membrane, it makes the same high quality water as all the others but much faster. Yes you need a matched flow restrictor for $5.

The MaxCap DI is intended to be used in front of another mixed bed DI cartridge such as the SilicaBuster, it should never be used alone or after another DI as it is a roughing filter or prefilter if you think of it like that.

Its been awhile so you need to refresh my memory as to what you have now, a photo would really help to to identify fittings and placements. Basically its a matter of replumbing a canister to turn it into a second DI such as a second carbon unneeded carbon canister. Its usually as easy as unscrewing the nipple connecting the last carbon canister, rotating it 90 degrees and installing john guest type quick connectors where the nipple once was so the one carbon now leads up to the membrane then back down to the rotated DI canister.

[ReeferRob]

Get the 90 GPD membrane, it makes the same high quality water as all the others but much faster. Yes you need a matched flow restrictor for $5.

The MaxCap DI is intended to be used in front of another mixed bed DI cartridge such as the SilicaBuster, it should never be used alone or after another DI as it is a roughing filter or prefilter if you think of it like that.

Its been awhile so you need to refresh my memory as to what you have now, a photo would really help to to identify fittings and placements. Basically its a matter of replumbing a canister to turn it into a second DI such as a second carbon unneeded carbon canister. Its usually as easy as unscrewing the nipple connecting the last carbon canister, rotating it 90 degrees and installing john guest type quick connectors where the nipple once was so the one carbon now leads up to the membrane then back down to the rotated DI canister.

Thanks man, called and spoke with the tech dude yesterday and he got me all set up with everything but the john guest fittings. Im off to work right now, but Ill post pics tonight and you can take a peak at what I have and need to do. Sounds pretty easy/straight forward. Oh, forgot to mention that I popped for the Dual TDS meter, not sure where to fit that into the new set up.

[AZDesertRat]

I went back and see yo uahve one of Marc's RO/DI systems. You will unscrew the three lids from the top bracket, unscrew the nipple between the two carbon canisters, unscrew and reinstall the 90 degree quick fitting from the last canister to the downstream side of the middle one facing to the back then connect this to the membrane housing using the existing 1/4" tube back in the same 90 degree elbow. Buy and install two quick fittings and install them in the loose lid then rotate it 90 degrees and reattach to the housing with the fittings facing front and back, making sure the OUT is facing the front. Connect the line from the treated RO to this canister first then into the second DI canister from there.
The inline TDS meter will have two tees with the probes installed, place the IN tee and probe after the RO membrane and before the first DI and the second or OUT probe in the final treated water line.
One word of caution, the MaxCap will exhaust before the SilicaBuster so you need a way to monitor its condition. If you have a handheld TDS meter I would install a tee with a ball valve as asample port between the two DI canisters and make it a point to test the MaxCap only TDS monthly if not more often and change the MaxCap when you start seeing signs of TDS, this way the SilicaBuster will last through three MaxCap cartridges or more before you see any evidence of TDS in the finished water.
This is why the MaxCap systems come standard with two dual inline TDS meters so you can monitor the condition of each individual component.

[ReeferRob]

Received my goodies today! I won't have time to mod for the second DI canister but am in desperate need of a water change. Would there be any ill side effects if I were to leave one canister empty add all the new media and make up a few gallons? Do I need to make a few gallons and pitch it first or is it okay to use it right from the get go? Will I notice or need to prepare for anything different with the new media and set up?

[AZDesertRat]

Leaving a canister empty for now is fine.
You should always flush your new filters.
Start by removing all the filters then disconnect the 1/4" line leading from the carbon up to the RO membarne housing at the RO end. Add two or three tablespoons of regular unscented bleach to the first or prefilter canister and screw the empty housings back on. Open the feed water and flush the chlorine through the system until it starts to come out the disconnected line then let it sit 3 to 5 minutes. Flush it until the scent disappears then remove only the prefilter housing and install the new filter. Flush this for several minutes to remove any glues or binders, next install the carbon block and flush out and dust or carbon fines.
Now reconnect to the RO membarne and let 'er rip.
If you are replacing the DI too then flush it until you see 0 TDS, resins are packed in a solution to keep them fresh.

[ReeferRob]

So hows this look so far. Red line (untreated water) comes in from the right first entering the sediment filter then going on to the carbon. I then splits off and goes through the membrane, which then comes down in the blue line. Black waste line of to the drain. Blue line enters DI canister then Silcate canitster where I have a ball valve for the collection barrel. There is also a T now after the membrane before the last two canisters.
I will soon add the ASO and float value as well.
So how does that look? I just roughed it out tonight still want to trim lines add stuff and mount. I didn't need to go get any additional hardware either! Just used what was already on the unit, just changed the order up a bit. I still need to figure out where the dual TDS meters should go and how I want to mount the thing to the wall. Tomorrow Im going to get some bleach cause Im out and get these things running.
Oh, one last thing do they install or put the flow restrictor on the membrane for me? I didn't find anything else in the box other than the five different canisters. Also the inside of the membrane bag was full of water is this normal?