Sump/Plumbing Diagram.....Please Review/Critique/Suggest My Setup

[BigBoi5680]

Got the idea to draw this up from another member who posted. This is how I drew it up in my head and put it down on paper. This was also not my first choice with how to set up the sump, but when I got it, it was already laid out this way so I decided to make it work.

Are there too many/few valves/unions?

Was also thinking about running 2 3/4 Sea Swirls, both side by side between the overflows to increase flow in the tank along with my Tunzes.

ALL critiques/suggestions are welcomed, really want to get insight so that I can make the necessary adjustments.....

[Tom@HaslettMI]

I don't think the ball valves on the drain runs are necessary. Also, I would get rid of the gate valve at the end of the fuge run as well as the one between the two "T's" on the return..

The final "T" on the return run should be set up like the one running to the fuge (i.e. turned to its side). If you slide the whole sump to the other side you might be able to accomplish a straight shot up to the return on the right side. Then put a gate valve on the after the "T" on the right side return.

Other thoughts... what size pipe are you planning to use? I recommend 1.5" or 1.25" schedule 80 PVC. I would also say replacing the 90 degree elbows with 45s. This will keep the drain lines quieter and reduce the head pressure on the pump. If you haven't used it already, check out the reef tool for head loss on return pumps (here).

Tom

[BigBoi5680]

The valves were just for ease of maintenance, so would simple unions be sufficient enough?

The gate valve on the return line was to throttle flow if needed.

Drain lines are 1.5" PVC and returns are currently 3/4".

[BigBoi5680]

Is there an advantage to plumbing the return straight up and running a T and valve off of that for the second return line vs. how it's laid out?

And with the SCH-80, is the restriction in flow vs. that of the SCH-40 a noticeable difference?

I also would like to incorporate a water change setup from the return line, what's the best way to do so?

[Tom@HaslettMI]

The valves were just for ease of maintenance, so would simple unions be sufficient enough?

Yes, I would just do unions.

The gate valve on the return line was to throttle flow if needed.

Throttling down a return pump is a bad idea. It will cause the pump to work harder, use more electricity, produce more heat, and wear out faster. Use the head loss calculator to determine the appropriate sized pump and run it at 100%. You will be able to make adjustments to the rate returning to the display by adjusting how much goes to the fuge.

Drain lines are 1.5" PVC and returns are currently 3/4".

Run the head loss calculator with all of your current specs... then change the returns to 1.25" and see the difference.

I just had a thought... why not drain one overflow directly to the fuge and skip the entire line running to the fuge?

Tom

[Tom@HaslettMI]

Is there an advantage to plumbing the return straight up and running a T and valve off of that for the second return line vs. how it's laid out?

The way it is currently set up will put a lot more back pressure on the pump.

And with the SCH-80, is the restriction in flow vs. that of the SCH-40 a noticeable difference?

Sorry, my bad... I meant sch-40.

I also would like to incorporate a water change setup from the return line, what's the best way to do so?

I can't help you here...I have no experience with this.

[BigBoi5680]

I wasnt sure the filtering ability of the fuge was as efficient as the skimmer would be, and didn't know if I had to throttle down the flow draining to the fuge and whether or not that would back up that drain/overflow.

[Preuss Pets]

Draining the water into the fuge is an option, but you'll want a baffle to eliminate the air bubbles from the drain if you run it there. You'll likely want a baffle added between the fuge and the return pump anyway to prevent stray macroalgae from leaving the fuge and getting stuck in the return pump.

For a water change, you can simply put a T and a valve on the return line. After the valve, maybe a coiled up length of flex tubing, or a hard pipe run to a drain. Then to do a water change you simply open the above valve and close the valve(s) that send water to the tank and you'll get to watch as the water level lowers (in this case) in the center area of the sump. Just before the pump would suck in air, return the valves to their original position and add saltwater to restore the level. You'll be limited in the amount of a water change you can do, I'm guessing based on the drawing it will be about 15 gallons this way, but you can figure it out by measuring the length between the far left and far right baffles, the width front to back, and the height between the normal water level in the pump chamber and where the pump would suck air. Write these down in inches, multiply them together and divide all that by 231 and you'll get the volume of water in gallons.

We set up a 180 for an 'older' lady a couple years ago which had a specially designed sump in this way which allowed her to do a 60ish gallon water change. She wanted to avoid lifting buckets and her house was full of bright white carpet. She could simply open and close two valves, watch the water level go down as one of the return pumps sent water down a pipe to her basement drain. Once the water level dropped low enough, she'd restore the valves, and turn on a switch which turned on a pump in her basement bringing premixed saltwater through about 100' of pipe and put it directly in the sump. Once the water level was back up, she'd turn off the switch. All the whole time, the fish in the tank had no idea there was a water change happening!

Steve