I guess these lights are something you'd have to see in person and not just through a pix. Not only to understand them but to be able to see what y'all are talking about.
I guess these lights are something you'd have to see in person and not just through a pix. Not only to understand them but to be able to see what y'all are talking about.
They can be "that" blue if you want them to be, However I like my light warmer so I have my whites turned up about 10% higher then the blues and about double as bright as the royals. I think the problem is that the pictures you take look SOO blue. In person it looks the same as my 250 halide (14k) and my 4 T5 actinic. Now you could have them REALLY really white if you turned the white up full blast and just added a small percent of blue and royal for "color" it would be really warm looking I will get a picture tomorrow. I am still playing around with these to get them exactly how I want them.Originally Posted by pjr
Oh and Miz, yeah you would have to not only see them but read as much stuff as we have about LEDs to get this thread at allWe love you anyhow! And if you ever get on the LED band wagon we can point you in the direction of some great info.
Heidi
they're only that blue if that's the way you want them.With no blues on it's a very bright white,The convient and benafical addition of the two diffrent types of blue in each puck allows you to adjust to your likeing.The Ai allows the hobbiest to adjust to a 10k to 20k and still maintain the par levels to sustain coral life and growth.I plan to add UV strips in addition to the AI's.
To chime in on the origanal post.I am very pleased with the blue's.I think anyone wanting to convert to LED's will not be disapointed with this system.Chooseing the white versus the blue I think really is up to your prefrence's of tank apperance.I don't think either model will have difficulty produceing the look you want or the par and pur needed to sustain a reef tank.One thing I think allot of people are not aware of that allot of led's out there inclueding Orphek are not dimable and if they are they require another manufacturs controler.Nothing wrong with that but the AI team put together a very user friendly system that anyone can use right out of the box with very little frustration.I have mine hooked to an apex and the so called plug and play VDM is so complicated that I had to ask a friend who use to be a programer to help.His reponse was this is just confuseing.He got it but it wasn't fun. One more system to go and the apex is showing a 9.8 amp drop in power useage.That's gonna make a major diffrence and the chiller is only comeing on twice in a 24 hour period to keep the water within 1 degree.The typical day showed the chiller comeing on 12 to 16 times a day @ 7.2 amps everytime.I think these will pay off very quickly
No they are not, for some reason point andshoot cameras will not take good pictures of them.
Thx! Wasn't trying to sound negative. I know I've had trouble taking pics of my setup too -- even my SLR comes out too blue. I shoot in raw and adjust the Color in Elements to the accurate perspective.
So why does AI call one model "blue" and one model "white?"
sorry about the dumb questions!
Detroit's oldest large LED tank! Est'd Jan 2005, went LED June 2009. 6' wide 130g reef, Sunbrite T10 LED tubes (3xGen 3 and 1xGen 1), mostly SPS, but chalices, other LPS, and a few softies too.
http://pjr-reef.blogspot.com/
SOL White pucks = Cree W/W/B
SOL Blue pucks = Cree W/B/RB
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. - George Bernard Shaw
The whites have two 3w whites and a 3w blue. The blues have one 3w white, one 3 w blue and one 3w royal blue which to me really makes corals pop.
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